Sunday, 30 March 2008

Knights of Malta.


Grand Master Fra' Andrew Bertie


The fortified City of Valletta - A UNESCO World Heritage Site

When I was in Malta on the 7th February 2008 I noticed flags were flown at half mast including many flags displaying the Maltese Cross, the eight pointed flag of the Order of the Knights of Malta. I later found out that the flags were lowered in honour of Fra’ Andrew Bertie, a descendant of Britain’s royal Stuart family who was grand master of the Knights of Malta, who had died in Rome. His full title was His Most Eminent Highness, Fra' Andrew Bertie, Prince and Grand Master of the Sovereign Military Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta. In Latin his formal title is recited as "Dei gratia Sacrae Domus Hospitalis Sancti Johannis Hierosolymitani et militaris Ordinis Sancti Sepulchri Dominici magister humilis pauperumque Jesu Christi custos". (a part of this title commemorates the granting to the Grand Master d'Aubusson of the Mastership of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre by Pope Innocent VIII in 1489, which grant proved temporary).



Enjoying the precedence of a Cardinal and therefore that of a Royal Prince as well as the dignity of Prince of the Holy Roman Empire (recognised later by Austria and Italy), and formerly a reigning Prince of Rhodes and then of Malta, the Grand Master is styled both Eminence and Highness, or Most Eminent Highness, and is internationally recognised as a Chief of State and sovereign honours are vested in him. Whilst little noticed in his native Britain he was the 78th man to hold the office and was the first Englishman to be elected the Order's leader since Hugh Revel in 1258, and the first non-Italian since the end of the 18th century. So who was this person and why did he and his organisation have such a grand eloquent title?

Elected for life, the grand master carries the title of prince, and the position is equal in rank to that of a cardinal. Fra Bertie’s father, James, was a foreign exchange dealer at the stock exchange in London. His mother, Lady Jean Crichton-Stuart, was a descendant of the Stuarts, the ruling family of Scotland from 1371 to 1603 and of England and Scotland from 1603 to 1714, with an 11-year interruption in the 17th century. Born in London in 1929, Fra Bertie joined the knights in 1956 and took his vows in 1981. He had also been a financial journalist and a language teacher. He was a fourth cousin of the Queen through James II and Sophie of Hanover.




Unveiling of memorial to Fra'Andrew Bertie on Malta

With his friend Viscount Furness, Bertie developed an increasing interest in the Order of Malta, joining its British Association in 1956. Taking solemn religious vows in 1981, he moved to Rome, where he served on the Sovereign Council (the Order's governing body) for seven years. Nevertheless, it was a shock for so self-effacing a man, especially for one who was not an Italian, to find himself elected Grand Master in April 1988. In Italy, where the Order of Malta has a high profile, the election of an Englishman came as no less of a surprise.

The order traces its origins to the 11th century, when merchants from the Republic of Amalfi financed a hospital run by monks in Jerusalem to care for pilgrims to the Holy Land. It dates its founding, however, to 1099, when the monks took on a military role to protect the pilgrims. What is remarkable is that it is the only one of the Crusader Orders of Knights still extant as it had both a Hospitaller and Military role and the former function provides its raison d’etre today. Dedicated to caring for pilgrims and the poor and the sick, the Order emerged in Palestine in about 1100, during the Crusades, and took up arms to defend the Holy Land. It continued its war against Islam, first from Rhodes and then from Malta, whence it was evicted by Napoleon in 1798.

Since 1834 its headquarters has been the Palazzo Magistrale in Rome, which constitutes the world's smallest sovereign state; the Order exchanges ambassadors with many countries and issues its own passports. Membership is largely restricted to Catholics with proofs of nobility, although there is an increasing element from among the new elite. The higher officers are nearly always noblemen who have taken vows of poverty, chastity and obedience.

Today, the Order - officially known as the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta - numbers about 12,500 knights, dames, chaplains and donats (members who are not knights).


Chapel of Grand Master Wignacourt, Rabat, Malta

The birth of the Order dates back to around 1048. Merchants from the ancient Marine Republic of Amalfi obtained from the Caliph of Egypt the authorisation to build a church, convent and hospital in Jerusalem, to care for pilgrims of any religious faith or race. The Order of St.John of Jerusalem - the monastic community that ran the hospital for the pilgrims in the Holy Land - became independent under the guidance of its founder, Blessed Gérard. when the crusaders captured Jerusalem in 1099, the hospital had been in operation for decades at least, perhaps centuries, caring for the sick and poor, Christian, Muslim, and Jew alike. It was ruled by a monk who was known as the Blessed Gerard who offered the Hospital’s services to the crusaders.


Sacra Infermeria (Holy Infirmary), Valetta

The hospital was operated under the Benedictine rule, but was able to free itself from their influence and establish themselves as a separate order. In 1113, Pope Paschal II issued a papal bull confirming the foundation of the Order of the Hospitallers. Gerard’s successor, Raymond du Puy was responsible for establishing the Military wing of the order in response to the creation of the Military Order of the Temple of Solomon, or the Knights Templar. The Military Order of the Hospitallers quickly grew into a major force in the Holy Land and, along with the Templars, provided the bulk of the forces for the defence of the Kingdom of Jerusalem garrisoning several fortresses on the frontiers of the kingdom. By 1168, they had become so powerful that they were capable of making and breaking treaties with neighbouring rulers without the consent of the King of Jerusalem. They were even responsible for forcing King Amalric into a premature invasion of Egypt for which they provided 500 brother knights and sergeants and 500 turcopoles or Syrian mercenaries.


A model of a Galley of the Knights

A bitter rivalry developed between the Hospitallers and Templars, once almost breaking out into a civil war. The two orders hated each other so much that they could only be convinced to go into battle side by side under the most dire of circumstances, such as the Battle of Hattin. But neither was hated more than by Saladin. After Hattin, Saladin paid 50 gold pieces each for every member of the two orders whom his followers had captured. He then had them all executed.


15th July 1099 - The Crusaders take Jerusalem ans slaughter all Muslims & Jews in the city

After the loss of Jerusalem, and the hospital, the few remaining Hospitallers retreated to their frontier fortresses to wait for another crusade to retake the city. That came two years later when Kings Richard and Phillip arrived and laid siege to the city of Acre, an important port for reaching Jerusalem. The Hospitallers joined the siege, and after two years, the Christian forces captured the city. The Order established a new hospital and headquarters in Acre. The crusading army moved on toward Jerusalem but did not attack. Weary of the Crusade, Richard agreed on a deal for Saladin to keep the city as long as he allowed Christian pilgrims to visit it. However, the crusaders managed to capture a few other cities in Palestine.

With the Bull of 15 February 1113, Pope Paschal II approved the foundation of the Hospital and placed it under the aegis of the Holy See, granting it the right to freely elect its superiors without interference from other secular or religious authorities. By virtue of the Papal Bull, the Hospital became an Order exempt from the Church. All the Knights were religious, bound by the three monastic vows of poverty, chastity and obedience.


Grand Master Alof Wignacourt

The constitution of the Kingdom of Jerusalem regarding the crusades obliged the Order to take on the military defence of the sick, the pilgrims and the territories that the crusaders had conquered from the Moslems. The Order thus added the task of defending the faith to that of its Hospitaller mission. As time went on, the Order adopted the white eight-pointed Cross that is still its symbol today. These eight points represented the eight Langue or tongues of the order, the countries which provided recruits and support. Both in their original capital in Malta of Birgu (renamed Vittriosa “The Victorious” after the siege of 1565) and their new capital named after a previous Grand Master of Valletta you will find the Auberges or Inn’s of each Langue.

It has led a somewhat itinerant existence since its foundation as its base has wandered from Jerusalem to Rome. The crusader “Kingdom of Jerusalem” retrenched from Jerusalem to Acre after the failure of the 3rd Crusade and eventually they lost their foothold in the Holy Land when Acre fell in 1291.

1310 - Rhodes



When the last Christian stronghold in the Holy Land fell in 1291, the Order settled first in Cyprus and then, in 1310, led by Grand Master Fra' Foulques de Villaret, on the island of Rhodes. In fact the order took a number of the Dodecanese Islands by force from the Byzantine Emperor. Whilst the Latin and Byzantine Church split in the schism of 1054 (over disagreement about one word in the Nicean Creed!) the real bitterness between the churches relates to crusaders who came to the east to defend Christianity going on to spill Christian blood at the sack of Constantinople in 1204 and afterwards the Empire was divided up between the Venetians and Normans. The Byzantines would have seen the taking of Rhodes and the Dodecanese in the same light which is why the Knights of Malta are not well regarded by the Orthodox to this day.




Palace of the Grand Masters, Rhodes.

From then, the defence of the Christian world required the organisation of a naval force. Thus the Order built a powerful fleet and sailed the Eastern Mediterranean, fighting many famous battles for the sake of Christendom - for example, the Crusades in Syria and Egypt. From its beginning, the independence from other nations granted by Pontifical deed, and the universally recognised right to maintain and deploy armed forces, constitute the grounds for the international sovereignty of the Order.

In the early 14th century the institutions of the Order and the knights who came to Rhodes from every corner of Europe were grouped according to the languages they spoke. There were initially seven groups of Langues (Tongues): Provence, Auvergne, France, Italy, Aragon (Navarre), England (with Scotland and Ireland) and Germany. In 1492 Castille and Portugal split off from the Langue of Aragon and constituted the eighth Langue. Each Langue included Priories or Grand Priories, Bailiwicks and Commanderies.


Grand Master's Throne, Rhodes

The Order was governed by its Grand Master (the Prince of Rhodes) and Council, minted its own money and maintained diplomatic relations with other States. The senior positions of the Order were given to representatives of different Langues. The seat of the Order, the Convent, was composed of religious of various nationalities. Today the Grand Masters Palace is still the centre of Rhodes town. It has suffered from a botched restoration by the Italians who occupied the Dodecanese from 1912 to 1943 and Mussolini had intended to use it as his summer palace.


The walled City of Rhodes

The Siege of Rhodes



In 1522 Suleiman had just finished his conquest of the Balkans with a victory over Hungary at the terrible siege of Belgrade. Now, at last, he would destroy Rhodes. Suleiman sent a letter to the Grand Master urging his friendship (meaning submission or surrender), and with intimidation cited the Sultan's "...triumph over the Hungarian King, whom we have stripped of the strong fortress of Belgrade, after having wasted his territories with fire and sword, and carried away many of his people." The Grand Master replied courteously, but noted the Order's determination to always defend its homeland. The Sultan's reply was a declaration of war.

As in the great siege 42 years earlier, the villas were levelled, and all the population of Rhodes, together with all available food and forage, were brought within the walls of the city. The Knights abandoned their other islands such as Kos and Kalymnos to concentrate their forces to defend Rhodes. . Under the command of the outstanding Knight Commander Anthony Bosio, vessels were dispatched to Candia (Crete), Sicily, Naples and France for whatever additional supplies, armaments, and men could be obtained. For example, on Candia, Bosio was able to enlist 500 Cretan archers. The Sultan assembled his fleet some 700 ships of which more than 100 were fighting galleys. He gathered his army more than 200,000 trained troops and as many as 100,000 sappers (slaves who were used to burrow under fortifications and set explosives). The armada set sail, and arrived at Rhodes on June 26, 1522. After sailing past the city to strike terror into the hearts of the defenders, a deserted area was chosen for disembarkation. It took thirteen days to unload the army, the supplies, and the hundreds of cannon some capable of firing balls nine feet in circumference.


Head of Medusa, Roman mosaic orginally from Kos in the Grand Master's Palace, Rhodes

Defending Rhodes were some 500 Knights and their servants of arms, probably fewer than 1,500 mercenaries and perhaps 4,000 Rhodian troops. There were several thousand inhabitants of Rhodes who at the arrival of the Turks entered the walled city for protection. Most lacked military training, and many were women and children. They could, however, help rebuild the walls, carry water, deliver supplies, and pray. This was, indeed, a small force to oppose the gathered might of the greatest Empire in the history of Islam. In fact, the forces of the Order at this time were slightly smaller than in the previous siege of 1480. The city, however, was at its strongest, encompassed by a double wall with thirteen towers, numerous bastions and special fortifications, a deep wide ditch around all, and the entire area commanded by cannon positioned for both frontal assault and crossfire. Every possible preparation and precaution was taken. Even the Latin and Greek Archbishops were instructed to give sermons regarding the necessity and merit of courageous resistance. Public prayers were offered imploring victory for the champions of the Cross.


Knights guarding the entrance to the Grand Master's Palace, Rhodes

Almost immediately after disembarking, the bombardment began, and daily assaults were made against the fortified city attacks which failed and cost the Turks dearly due to the precision of the Rhodian cannoniers. So heavy were the losses that the invaders wanted to abandon the siege. However, after so many Turk defeats by the Order, this time the Sultan himself would command the siege. Suleiman came ashore on July 28th. His first act was to assemble his entire army, unarmed. Then he surrounded them with 15,000 of his personal guard, and because of their failures and their desire to disengage, he threatened to execute every tenth man. They prostrated themselves before him and begged mercy. There was never again talk of abandoning the field.




Street of the Knights, Rhodes

A violent, continuous, general bombardment now began. It is difficult to grasp the intensity of this siege. Once the cannonade began it rarely let up. The battle raged day and night for five months. During the day the walls would be battered into rubble, while engagements took place all around the city as thousands of Turks assaulted various fortified positions. Then, during the night, even under bombardment, the walls were rebuilt. Buildings throughout the city would be torn down and the stone used to rebuild the fortifications.

Typical of the warfare throughout this siege was the repeated heavy assault on the bulwark of the English Knights, which was several times mined. On September 4th, this wall was successfully mined and exploded, destroying 36 feet of the wall. The Turks soon gained control of this position and planted their standard. The Grand Master, praying prostrate before the altar of Saint Mary of Victory, hearing the explosion, rushed to the wall, led a furious fight to the top, and personally tore down the Turk banner. In the battle that continued for hours, more than two thousand Turks were killed. Rhodian musketeers along the wall shot down hundreds, while Knights in armour met steel with steel in hand-to-hand combat. In this engagement alone, forty-eight Knights fell. It was a heavy loss for the Turks and an irreplaceable loss for the Order, but again the Cross had held against the Crescent. A few days later a similar assault was launched against the bulwark of Italy, with almost identical results. Four days later, Mustapha Pasha with four battalions again assaulted the English bastion, and then the bastion of Spain. The fighting defies description, and this time the Turks lost more than three thousand brave Janissaries.


Ruins of Our Lady of the Bourg. This was once the largest Catholic church on Rhodes, built by the Knights to commemorate their defeat of the Turks in 1480. It was hit by a British bomb during the war. Only ruins of this church remain.

Then on September 24th, an all-out attack by tens of thousands was simultaneously launched on the bulwarks of Italy, Spain, England, Provence and Auvergne. Minute details of all these separate battles can be found in the Order's archives. The resistance, the heroism, almost exceeded human capabilities. Often only a few against hundreds in hand-to-hand combat. In addition, the Order's sharpshooters, even using the crude harquebus muskets of that era, were deadly. One French Knight, Francis Fornovi, shooting from the Tower of Saint George, killed more than 500 Turks during the siege. Thus the battle continued, almost without respite, from June into December. At one stage the Grand Master, dressed in his armour, slept for thirty-four successive nights behind the entrenchment on the Spanish bastion, ready to repulse the next attack. Eventually, nearly every principal bastion was beaten into rubble by the Turk cannon, only to find that the Order had dug new ditches and built new walls behind those that were destroyed. Moreover, while the courage and fanaticism of the Turk troops was astounding, the heroism of the Knights and the Rhodians who were fighting for their lives and for their women and children (who would be violated and put to horrible deaths if Islam prevailed) was even greater.

But the prolonged siege took its toll. By mid December, only a few Knights were still alive. Tens of thousands of Turks were dead. The stench of rotting bodies of men and animals hung all over the inland. Unsanitary conditions contributed to much disease. The suffering and dying of the thousands of wounded was almost unbearable. Finally, with winter approaching, the Sultan offered a truce. He had no idea how many Knights remained, and if a considerable number were still alive, and they continued to fight as they had done, the siege would be too costly for him to continue. Similarly, the Grand Master was faced with rebellion by the civilian Rhodians and Greek citizens, and demands by the clergy for a truce. With few Knights still able to resist, L'Isle Adam agreed to negotiations.


Stairs of the Grand Master's Palace, Rhodes

Filled with awe for the Knights, and in sharp contrast to the usual 3 days of pillage and killing, Suleiman was magnanimous. If the Order would surrender Rhodes, the Sultan promised that the churches would not be profaned, no children would be taken from their parents, all citizens would be allowed free exercise of their religion, any and all residents of Rhodes would be free to leave the island with the Knights, those who remained would pay no tribute for five years, the Knights would depart in their own galleys and be supplied by the Turks with additional ships if needed, the Order could embark with all its property relics, consecrated vessels, records, and the artillery on board its warships, and the Turk army would retire several miles from the city while this evacuation took place. Suleiman himself came into the city to salute the Grand Master and addressed him by the title of "Father." On the first day of January 1523, L'Isle Adam and his intrepid Knights put to sea on fifty ships loaded with the Order's property, together with all those who fought with the Order, and all Christians who wished to accompany them. Many years later in 1565 towards the end of his long reign Suleiman was to regret his magnanimity when one of the Knights who left Rhodes under honourable terms, Jean Parisot de la Valette, now Grand Master, led the Knights who defeated Suleiman’s forces at the Siege of Malta.

In the same year, 1523, a former Knight of the Order "who had laid aside the sword for the cowl and rosary" Cardinal Julio de Medici, was unanimously elected Pope Clement VII. In the procession following his election the great standard of the Order of Saint John was carried before the new Pontiff.

1530 - Malta


Phillipe Villiers de L'Isle Adam being received by the Maltese at Mdina 1530

After six months of siege and fierce combat against the fleet and army of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, the Knights were forced to surrender in 1523 and left Rhodes with military honours. The Sultan was to regret the generous and merciful terms he granted to the Knights on condition they stopped attacking Ottoman ships and towns for the Knights never honoured the agreement.



For seven years the Order had no home, taking only transitory residence in Sicily and Italy. In 1530 the knights were granted the small and barren islands of the Maltese archipelago, along with the city of Tripoli on the North African coast, by the Hapsburg Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and king of Spain. Charles knew the wisdom in having such a military force to protect his southern flanks from Suleiman and his allies, the corsairs of the Barbary Coast. Charles set rent for the island at the annual payment of a falcon.

It is hard to imagine who was more unhappy at the arrangement: the knights, dismayed over the barren, impoverished, and poorly-defended land; the nobles and peasants of Malta, resentful and suspicious of their new and foreign rulers, who did not bother even to learn their language; or the Ottomans and their allies the corsairs, who realized that the harbors of Malta were perfect for sheltering the troublesome knights, who now commanded the vital sea lanes between Sicily and North Africa.

In 1530 Grand Master L'Isle Adam was received by Malta's unhappy nobles at Mdina, an ancient walled city which at the time was the island's capital. The seafaring knights preferred to build their convent in the fishing village of Birgu. They slowly began fortifying the area around the Grand Harbor against the Ottoman attack that all knew was inevitable.


Caravaggio. The Beheading of St. John the Baptist. 1607-1608. Oil on canvas. Co-Cathedral of St. John, Valletta, Malta

It was established that the Order should remain neutral in any war between Christian nations. In 1565 the Knights, led by Grand Master Fra' Jean de la Vallette (after whom the capital of Malta, Valletta, was named), defended the island for more than three months during the Great Siege by the Turks. In gratitude for the defence and defeat of the Turks after the Great Siege of Malta Christian Europe poured funds into the island and a new purpose built defensive capital of Valletta was built under the supervision of a military engineer sent by the Pope. . Today, the city they left behind is the greatest example of a fortified medieval city and a Unesco World Heritage site.

The Siege of Malta

The year is 1565. On the island of Malta, 600 Knights of St. John, commanding a force of some 8000 men, prepare to defend their island fortress from attack. These same Catholic Knights had been driven from their previous stronghold, the Isle of Rhodes, in 1522, by the Ottoman Turks. Under Suleiman the Magnificent, the Moslems were pressing hard across Arabia, Syria, Iraq, into Egypt and northern Africa, and had established a strong foothold on the north coast of the Black Sea, the gateway to all of Europe itself. In 1526, the Hungarians had been defeated at the Battle of Mohacs, and only the Austrian Habsburgs now stood in the way of the Moslem advance. Vienna came under attack in 1529, but the Moslems were unable to take the capital, and their over-extended campaign failed.


Galley of the Knights

Now, the Turks had raised a fleet of 181 ships, carrying some 30,000 soldiers, and Malta was the prize they sought. Their goal was to plunder and sweep all the ships of Christian Europe from the Mediterranean. Then, in control of the sea lanes and trade routes, with their naval and economic power supreme, all of Europe would be set to fall before them.

The Turkish fleet appeared off the coast of Malta, and laid siege to the island. All through the summer of 1565 the contest for Malta raged. In the end, the Knights of St. John (Knights of Malta) were victorious, and the Turks were forced to withdraw in defeat. It did not, however, end the threat from the Ottoman Turks.


The 3 Cities held by the Knights in the siege of Malta - seen from Valetta which was built after the siege

This was psychological warfare at its most brutal; a message sent by the Turkish Muslim commander whose invading army had just vanquished the small outpost of Fort St Elmo - a thousand yards distant across the water. Now the target was the one remaining fort on the harbour front where the beleaguered, outnumbered and overwhelmed Christians were still holding out: the Fort St Angelo. The Turkish commander wished its defenders to know that they would be next, that a horrible death was the only outcome of continued resistance.


Fort St. Angelo - Now reoccupied by the Knights under agreement with the Government of Malta

But the commander had not counted on the mettle of his enemy - the Knights of St John. Nor on the determination of their leader Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette, who vowed that the fort would not be taken while one last Christian lived in Malta. On news of the grotesque discovery of the headless knights - many of them his personal friends - Grand Master Valette quickly ordered that captured Turks imprisoned deep in the vaulted dungeons of the fort be taken from their cells, and beheaded one by one.

Then he returned a communiqué of his own: the heads of his Turkish captives were fired from his most powerful cannon direct into the Muslim lines. There would be no negotiation, no compromise, no surrender, and no retreat. We Christians, the Grand Master was saying, will fight to the death and take you with us. The Siege of Malta in 1565 was a clash of unimaginable brutality, one of the bloodiest - yet most overlooked - battles ever fought. It was also an event that determined the course of history, for at stake was the very survival of Christianity.



If vitally strategic Malta fell, the Muslim Ottoman Empire would soon dominate the Mediterranean. Even Rome would be in peril. The Muslims had hundreds of ships and an army tens of thousands strong. The Christians were a ragtag bunch of just a few hundred hard-bitten knights and some local peasant soldiers with a few thousand Spanish infantry. Malta looked doomed. That the Hospitaller Knights of St John existed at all was a minor miracle. They were a medieval relic, an order established originally to look after ailing pilgrims to the Holy Lands during the Crusades 300 year’s earlier - other orders of the Crusades, such as the Knights Templar, had been extinct for two-and-a-half centuries.


Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette

They came from countries all over Europe: Germany, Portugal, France, and Spain. All that united them was a burning desire to defend Christendom against what they perceived as the ever-encroaching tide of Islam. Yet by the 16th century, an age of the increasing power of nation states, these trans-national zealots were viewed as an embarrassing anachronism by much of Europe. Already the Turks had forced them from their earlier home, the island of Rhodes. Now the knights had moved to Malta - and were threatened once more.

Suleiman controlled the greatest fighting force in the world. Before him lay an armada of 200 ships ready to sail, an army of 40,000 troops on board. He planned to wipe the barren rock of Malta and the Knights of St John from the map. These knights lived by raiding and disrupting his Ottoman shipping routes. The last straw had been their capture of the prized ship of his powerful courtier the Chief Black Eunuch.




Grand Master's Palace, Valetta

The Sultan did not expect undue trouble exacting his revenge. A mere 700 knights stood in his way. Such a rabble would be quickly cleared. The Turkish fleet headed across the Mediterranean in March 1565. Aboard the ships were the elite Janissary shock-troops - the "Invincible Ones" - who had carried Islam across Europe with the slashing blades of their scimitars. In late May 1565, the invasion force arrived at the island. The knights awaiting them enjoyed good intelligence of their plans and had asked for assistance from the Christian armies of European nations. Every kingdom spurned their request - other than Sicily, which said that if the knights held out, help would eventually come.

They first attacked Fort St. Elmo at the head of the rocky peninsular which is today the City of Valletta. Each time they were met by the ragged and diminishing band of defenders, fighting with pikes and battle-axes, firing muskets and dropping blocks of stone, throwing fire-hoops that set ablaze the flowing robes of the Muslims and sent them burning and plummeting to their deaths. The fire-hoops - covered in flax and cotton, dipped in brandy and coated with pitch and saltpetre - were the knights' own invention. Dropped blazing over the bastion walls, they could engulf three Turks at a time. For 30 days, cut off and doomed, the soldiers of St Elmo prevailed. The Turkish general had expected the fort to fall within three. Late at night on Friday June 22, 1565, the few hundred survivors from an original garrison of 1,500, sang hymns, offered up prayers, defiantly tolled their chapel bell and prepared to meet their end the next day.


Gate to the City of Birgu, Malta (renamed Vittriosa “The Victorious” after the siege of 1565)

Those unable to stand were placed in chairs behind the shattered ramparts, crouching low with their pikes and swords to await the final assault. When it came, and the entire Turkish army descended as a howling mass, the handful of Christians still managed to fight for several hours. Eventually the Ottomans took their prize. The crescent banners of the Grand Turk flew above the ruins, the heads of the knights were raised on spikes, and the crucified bodies of their officers were floated across to Fort St Angelo on the far side of the harbour. The Turks had lost time and up to 8,000 of their crack troops.


Auberge de Castille y Leon, Valletta

Summer heat was rising, disease and dysentery spread throughout the Muslim camp, and the dead lay piled around the blackened remnants of the seized fort. But Grand Master Valette was not about to quit. Scenes of heroism and horror abounded in the terrible days that followed. There were extraordinary characters: Fra Roberto, the priest who fought on the battlements with a sword in one hand and a cross in the other; the two English "gentlemen adventurers" who arrived belatedly from Rome to take part in the action; Valette himself, who stood unyielding in the breach and used a spear to battle hand-to-hand against the foe.

Others had led desperate sallies against the Ottoman, harrying their labour corps, sniping at commanders, spiking their guns. But the enemy, too, had their brave and vivid figures. Among them was Dragut, the most feared corsair of his day, whose skill and dash had served the Sultan well. A cannonball splinter did for him. Yet the siege continued, the target now St Angelo, the final and fortified enclave of the knights on the southern side of Grand Harbour.


Auberge d'Auvergne et Provence, Valletta

The Turks tried every twist and tactic in their military manual. They tunnelled beneath the Christian defences to bury gunpowder and blow the knights to bits. The Maltese responded with their own mines to blow up the tunnels and there were terrible skirmishes below ground. Next the Turks drew up siege engines, giant towers designed to pour their infantry direct on to the battlements. The knights removed stones at the base of the battlement walls so that they could run out cannon through the openings they had created, and blast the siege engines apart.



On several occasions those walls were breached, the Turks rushing through eager to slaughter all in their path. Triumph seemed at hand but they found too late that the knights had improvised an ambush, creating a killing zone into which they were funnelled and slaughtered. Success for the Turks was slipping away. The furnace temperatures of July and August sapped morale and strength; the sense of failure clung as pervasively as the surrounding stench of death. The Turks' commander, Mustapha Pasha, marched inland to take the walled city of Mdina, only to withdraw when scouts informed him of its substantial and well-armed garrison. It was a trick. Mdina was largely undefended, its governor ordering women and children to don helmets carry pikes and patrol the walls. Frantic, with casualties mounting and autumn storms looming, the Turks rolled a giant bomb - a fiendish barrel-shaped object packed with gunpowder and musket balls - into the Christian positions.

The knights promptly rolled it back and it blew a devastating hole in the massed and waiting Muslim ranks. It rained. Believing the gunpowder of the knights to be damp, their muskets and cannon useless, Mustapha Pasha again sent his troops forward. They were met by a hail of not only crossbow bolts but gunfire, for Valette had anticipated such a moment, setting aside stores of dry powder. Finally, relief reached the knights in the form of a small army from Sicily. Believing the enemy reinforcements too weak to be of any consequence, Mustapha Pasha angrily ordered his troops - who had bolted on hearing of the new arrivals - to turn back and march towards them. It was the last of his many grave blunders.

The cavalry of the relief force charged, then the infantry, tearing into the Turkish centre, putting it to flight. Rout turned to bloodbath. The once-proud Ottoman force scrambled in disarray for its ships, pursued across the island, cut down and picked off at every step. Thousands died and the waters of St Paul's Bay ran red. Of the 40,000 troops that had set sail in the spring from Constantinople, only some ten thousand made it home. Behind them they had left a scene of utter devastation. Almost the entire garrison commanded by Jean Parisot de Valette - after whom the city of Valletta is named - had perished. Now, after 112 days of siege, the ragged handful of survivors limped through the blitzed wreckage of their lines.

Malta was saved, for Europe and Christianity. The Knights of St John had won. To this day Victory Day, 8 September, is a national holiday in Malta. It is locally known as il-Vitorja (the Victory) and il-Bambina (Baby Mary) and it celebrates not as many think the victory in World War 11 but the victory of the Great Siege by the Knights of St. John against the Turks of 1565.


Armoury, Grand Master's Palace, Valletta.

1571 - The Battle of Lepanto


The fleet of the Order, then one of the most powerful in the Mediterranean, contributed to the ultimate destruction of the Ottoman naval power in the Battle of Lepanto in 1571. When news of the victory reached Europe, church bells rang out in cities all across the continent. The Battle of Lepanto was a decisive victory, with only 40 of the over 300 Moslem ships surviving the engagement. The Turkish force of some 75,000 men was in ruins.


Battle of Lepanto

The battle, although a great victory for Catholic Europe, did not end the threat of invasion, or completely break the power of the Ottoman Turks. More naval and land battles would follow in the years to come, and Vienna itself would come under attack again, and yet again.


Valletta on Mount Sciberras with St. Elmo Fort at its seaward tip

After the Great Siege, a new and more heavily fortified capital was built on Sciberras, a peninsula overlooking the Grand Harbor. The city was called Valletta, after the Grand Master who led the island's defenders against the Ottoman attack. The knights continued their traditions of maintaining one of Europe's finest hospitals, of raiding enemy (Muslim) shipping, trading in slaves, and, of course, drinking and debauching. Afterwards the power of the Knights grew until by the 17th Century the Grand Master was styled “King of Malta” and wore the closed or “magisterial” crown. He had acquired all the attributes of sovereign, addressing kings as "Cousin". He still wears an extraordinary hat of office - an inverted fluted cone - that is as distinctive in its own way as that of a Venetian Doge.

Valletta's Sacra Infermeria



The extensive edifice of the Sacra Infermeria (Holy Infirmary) occupies a large site which overlooks the Grand Harbour, very near Fort St. Elmo. This hospital, one of the first buildings of Valletta, started to function in 1574 under Grand Master Jean de la Cassiere. Originally, it consisted of a large ward. Under the rule of Grand Master Nicholas Cottoner (1663 - 80), the hall was enlarged; and in 1712 Grand Master Perellos commissioned a new building alongside Merchants Street, which included a chapel and a pharmacy.

Valletta's Sacra Infermeria was the best-equipped hospital of the Order. In its day, it counted amongst the finest hospitals in Europe. The Infermeria had six wards; the largest measured 161 metres and is still the longest and one of the most impressive rooms in Europe. The infirmary provided about 900 beds for male patients who included knights, soldiers, sailors and foreigners. Maltese patients and slaves were accommodated in another large hall below the Main Ward. In 1676, a school of anatomy and surgery was set up in the building.

The administration of the Sacra Infermeria was entrusted to knights of the French Langue, under the headship of the Grand Hospitaller. When the Knights were forced to leave the Island in 1798, Napoleons’ troops used the hospital for their own personnel. The British, who took over Malta’s government in 1800, renamed the Infirmary ‘Station Hospital’, and used it as such until the end of the First World War.


Tending the wounded


Sacra Infermeria

The Sacra Infermeria was a huge contrast to the often squalid hospitals of the day. Because healing was part of their oath the Knights ensured it was spacious and airy and kept scrupulously clean even though the importance of hygiene and the existence of germs was not understood at the time. Like Hippocrates they believed in a holistic approach to healing with spiritual counselling and hearty food often served by the Knights themselves as part of their vow to minister to the sick. Food was served from silver platters rather than the wooden platters used at the time and whilst the Knights realised that these could be cleaned better it has since been discovered that silver itself has natural antiseptic properties.

1798 - In exile

Their Mediterranean stronghold of Malta was captured by Napoleon in 1798 during his expedition to Egypt. As a ruse, Napoleon asked for safe harbor to resupply his ships, and then turned against his hosts once safely inside Valletta. Grand Master Ferdinand von Hompesch zu Bolheim failed to anticipate or prepare for this threat, provided no effective leadership, and readily capitulated to Napoleon, arguing that the order's charter prohibited fighting against Christians. In 1799, in disgrace and under pressure from the Austrian court, he resigned his office and retreated into obscurity.The Maltese boxed in the French for two years in Valletta and the Three Cities until the British Fleet accepted their surrender.

The knights were now dispersed, though the order continued to exist in a diminished form and negotiated with European governments for a return to power. The Russian Emperor, Paul I, gave the largest number of knights shelter in St. Petersburg, an action which gave rise to the Russian tradition of the Knights Hospitaller and the Order's recognition among the Russian Imperial Orders. The refugee knights in St Petersburg proceeded to elect Tsar Paul as their Grand Master – a rival to Grand Master von Hompesch until the latter's abdication left Paul as the sole Grand Master. As Grand Master Paul I created, in addition to the Roman Catholic Grand Priory, a "Russian Grand Priory" of no less than 118 Commanderies, dwarfing the rest of the Order and open to all Christians. Paul's election as Grand Master was, however, never ratified under Roman Catholic canon law, and he was the de facto rather than de jure Grand Master of the Order.

By the early 1800s, the order had been severely weakened by the loss of its priories throughout Europe. Only 10% of the order's income came from traditional sources in Europe, with the remaining 90% being generated by the Russian Grand Priory until 1810. This was partly reflected in the government of the Order being under Lieutenants, rather than Grand Masters, in the period 1805 to 1879, when Pope Leo XIII restored a Grand Master to the order. This signalled the renewal of the order's fortunes as a humanitarian and religious organization. Hospital work, the original work of the order, became once again its main concern.


Insignia of The Order

Although the sovereign rights of the Order in the island of Malta had been reaffirmed by the Treaty of Amiens (1802) and the Congress of Vienna (1815), the Order has never been able to return to Malta. When the British landed on the island in 1800 they found themselves de facto rulers of Malta and it became the key to the British Navy’s control of the Mediterranean and the passage to India when the Suez Canal opened.

1834 - Rome

After having temporarily resided in Messina, Catania and Ferrara, in 1834 the Order settled definitively in Rome, where it owns, with extraterritoriality status, the Magistral Palace in Via Condotti 68 and the Magistral Villa on the Aventine Hill.

The 20th and 21st Century
The original Hospitaller mission became once again the main activity of the Order, growing ever stronger during the last century, most especially because of the contribution of the activities carried out by the Grand Priories and National Associations in so many countries around the world. Large-scale Hospitaller and charitable activities were carried out during World Wars I and II under Grand Master Fra' Ludovico Chigi Albani della Rovere (1931-1951).Under the Grand Masters Fra’ Angelus de Mojana di Cologna (1962-1988) and Fra' Andrew Bertie (1988-2008) the Order was reformed to adopt a more international structure emphasising its original mission of caring.


Coat of Arms of the Knights of Malta

The Order has recently returned to Malta, after signing an agreement with the Maltese Government which granted the Order the exclusive use of Fort St. Angelo at overlooking the Grand Harbour for a term of 99 years. Located in the town of Birgu, the Fort belonged to the Knights from 1530 until the island was occupied by Napoleon in 1798. Today, after restoration, the Fort hosts historical and cultural activities related to the Order of Malta.

So by any standards after 900 years this Order is a remarkable survivor in the modern world, the only tangible link with the Crusades which for good or bad have defined the relationship between the 3 religions of Christianity, Judaism and Islam and also between Latin and Eastern Christians.

The Order combines an aristocratic membership with modern humanitarian activities. In Catholic Europe it is the last bastion of the old establishment. King Juan Carlos was President of its Spanish Association before he became king, while the Austrian Association contains a score of Habsburg archdukes. Its hospitaller activities - funding and administering hospitals, providing ambulance brigades and sending supplies - range from Peru to Pakistan, from California to Russia. There is also a worldwide relief service, Malteser International. The Order specialises in helping victims of armed conflict or natural disaster, providing medical assistance, caring for refugees and distributing medicine and basic equipment for survival.



Its members are supported by 80,000 permanent volunteers, who are backed by a qualified staff that consists of more than 13,000 doctors, nurses, auxiliaries and other assistants.

Fra' Andrew's term of office proved highly successful. He spoke five languages (and had a working knowledge of half a dozen more), and he increased the Order's membership, bringing a fresh approach to its humanitarian activities and extending aid to hitherto inaccessible regions.
The Order's diplomatic missions, offering assistance during natural disasters or armed conflict, doubled from 49 to 100. Fra' Andrew established conferences at which members of the Order were invited to contribute to its work, were encouraged to commit themselves to the spiritual aspect of its mission to the sick and the poor, and were urged to live according to Christian principles. Above all, he wanted the knights, even those not in vows, to see their calling as a religious vocation.

On Malta, where he loved to spend holidays (Both he and his mother had holiday homes and citrus groves on Malta at Attard), he organised judo classes for children, teaching them himself (he was a judo black belt). He enjoyed great support from his younger brother Peregrine, and was delighted when he became president of the British Association.


Knights with an Orthodox Metropolitan

Characteristically, the Grand Master's last official pronouncement, in January this year, was very much to the point. In an address to the ambassadors accredited to the Sovereign Military Order, he warned of harmful and unfounded rumours that the knights were involved in anti-Islamic activities in countries where, in reality, they were engaged in humanitarian work. Rumours of this sort, he told the ambassadors, were placing the lives of the Order's volunteer carers in grave danger.



Today this venerable institution faces new challenges. Remarkably, they have elected another Englishman, Fra' Matthew Festing, 58, to become the 79th Grand Master of the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta. It needs to revamp and redefine itself and in particular its archaic structure and insistence on aristocratic antecedents is a major barrier to growth and development, particularly in areas such as the United States where it needs to win supporters and funds. Its aristocratic nature was outdated when (the then) General Napoleon landed on Malta in 1798 and has not become more relevant since. However given its remarkable history and capacity for regeneration who would suggest that the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta does not have 900 years of history in front of it?

http://www.orderofmalta.org/


Magistral Palace in Via Condotti, Rome

Thursday, 27 March 2008

Three and Out?




The longer in the tooth you get you learn there are two things you should never be judgemental about, relationships and suicides.

A film has been criticised by train driver's union ASLEF for its portrayal of deaths on the London Underground. "Three and Out" features a driver who witnesses two accidents and is told if a third person dies he will lose his job but will get a "huge payoff".

Writing on the union's website general secretary Keith Norman said the plot was "insulting and foolish". The distribution company said the light-hearted film took "great care" to handle "heartfelt issues" sensitively.

The driver, played by actor McKenzie Crook, witnesses two accidental deaths while at work and is traumatised by it, the film company said. But he sets out to seek the third person to give up their life under his train after colleagues explain that he will receive "enough cash to pay off his debts and retire to a Scottish idyll".

Now some things need to be said:

Firstly, the entire premise of the movie is false (there are no "pay offs") and I agree with ASLEF as suicide or attempted suicide is a serious matter and it causes great trauma to drivers and those involved in the unedifying aftermath.

Secondly, the Underground is not a good place to pursue this thought as most attempts actually end in hideous injuries, not to mention the distress to staff, police and para-medics who are just going about their job and passengers (including children) who are just trying to get from A to B. Selfish and distressing behaviour indeed.

Thirdly, potential suicides are not in control, are suffering from severe depression for which they need help and assistance and are highly suggestible so publicity about suicides will actually result in more attempts and unwarranted deaths or in most cases, grotesque injuries. People who survive generally move on and can't believe they made such an irrational judgement at a point in their lives when they were uniquely vulnerable.

Here is the Movie trailer to make up your own mind but do we really need to make movies like this to make money? Suspect this is another British World Beater which won't beat anything.

http://threeandoutmovie.com/

Wednesday, 26 March 2008

NUTS to You!



Over the Easter Holiday in the U.K. we have been unfortunate to once again witness the annual Whinge Fests known as the teachers’ conferences. Each year at this time the impressionable young people of Britain are exposed to an appalling display of exhibitionistic juvenilia at the conferences of the teaching unions who cannot agree on anything amongst them selves - they are the National Union of Teachers, NASWUT, ATL, NACG, PAT, NAHT, SHA – you get the drift; there are lots of them and they are fiercely sectarian and their party trick each year consists of crying wolf, proclaiming a pox upon any change to the status quo and generally passing a plethora of ridiculous resolutions (“International Affairs” is always the most ludicrous and entertaining area) of the type which would bring any properly organised Youth Assembly into disrepute.

Of these the most juvenile refugee camp for the sectarian lefties who can no longer (to the eternal credit of Tony Blair) find an outlet at the Labour Party Conference for their shrill screeching are the aptly acronymic NUTS – National Union of Teachers. Consider first their comic quality as epitomised by their previous General Secretary, Doug McEvoy, who once described a Government memo pointing out the danger of discussing policy with NUTS in his usual understated bluster as "a disgrace ... a sinister lack of tolerance and a rejection of democracy at the heart of government". When this Great Democrat decided to step down from his well upholstered position after doing the full 15 years allowed under NUTS constitution only 21.7% of the NUTS 240,681 members voted and 11.3% elected his successor, Steve Sinnott in 2004. There were 52,310 votes cast in the election and under the single transferable vote system, Mr Sinnott beat Ian Murch in the final round by 27,287 to 22,134. Problematic indeed when NUT members stand in front of a Citizenship Class and discuss Gordon Brown’s beloved “British Values” such as, errr, errr, Democracy!!

The form in ASBO style behaviour at NUTS Conferences over the years has been as impressive as their love of Democracy.

In 1995 the then Secretary of State for Education, David Blunkett (who is blind) was chased, heckled and forced to take refuge in a side office. Disability awareness is not a strong point in modern Britain.

In 2000 delegates staged a walkout during a speech by Estelle Morris.

In 2003 Secretary of State Charles Clarke would not attend the conference - and nor would any of his ministerial team. It highlighted the poor state of relations between the government and the union, which strongly disagreed with recent initiatives (sorry: that should read “any initiatives”) such as the push for advanced classroom assistants who would share some of the teaching workload with qualified teachers, in a small number of specific circumstances.

Mr Clarke said the conduct of NUT delegates had "not encouraged a positive dialogue" and had "seriously damaged" the image of the teaching profession. The union rebuked his decision as "immature". The BBC's education correspondent Mike Baker commented that "There is also evidence to support his view of the impression given to outsiders. I have become used to the ways of the NUT conference but each time I am accompanied by a new cameraman or technician, they are always appalled by the behaviour of a minority." An official of the GMB (which represents nursery nurses and classroom assistants) attacked the NUT's constant threats of industrial action, saying "The NUT executive should stop playing class war politics with our education system. They are not accurately reflecting the reality of the classroom or the agreement."

This year (2008) they (uniquely among the teaching unions) also voted for strike action; the following report from the Trotskyite “Socialist Worker” captures the flavour fairly well:

“Delegates agreed that this years’ conference of the National Union of Teachers (NUT) was one of the most enthusiastic and left wing ever. Teachers are currently balloting for strike action and questions of pay and industrial action dominated the conference, held in Manchester over the Easter weekend. Other important debates included pupil behaviour, class sizes, city academies and military recruitment in schools. The conference voted to affiliate to the Abortion Rights campaign. The left were well organised with a lively meeting of the Socialist Teachers Alliance on the Friday night. Around 70 people attended a meeting of the Left List. Over 250 crammed into a meeting on “Britishness, racism and the war” with Lindsey German from the Stop the War Coalition, former Guantanamo prisoner Moazzam Begg and Rose Gentle from Military Families Against the War.”

No doubt the Children of Britain need to be grateful to these Trots who were expelled from the Labour Party and who will demand respect from their charges when they next stand in front of their classes.

I have had some insight into the heroic cadre of leaders who lead these selfless working class heroes with their extensive holidays, bomb proof pensions, free school trips to exotic “educational” destinations and salaries of up to £41k a year. The NUTS bought a former stately home and college of education, Stoke Rochford Hall, in a leafy part of rural Lincolnshire where I often used to attend conferences (http://www.stokerochfordhall.co.uk ) This is a beautiful Jacobean revival house designed by the famous Scottish architect William Burn. The Hall was built in the early 1840s for a local wealthy landowner Sir Christopher Turnor. Many of the original features have been retained in and around the impressive Grand Hall and surrounding function rooms which include a magnificent Conservatory leading onto garden terraces. The rich interiors and attention to detail capture the Victorian splendour perfectly and the village itself was the birthplace of Sir. Isaac Newton. Following a serious fire in 2005, the Hall has had an extensive restoration scheduled for completion early July this year. In the grounds there is an indoor swimming pool and a fine fitness centre called “Gym and Tonic.” Across from it is an 18 hole golf course and in the basement of the main house there is a superb but expensive restaurant with prices which would not raise an eyebrow among Non Doms. in Mayfair, Central London but which seemed very high in leafy Lincolnshire.

But all was revealed for each weekend the General Secretary, in his chauffeured Jaguar, and the NUTS Executive committee would take themselves and others to this leafy haven for some serious Rest and Recreation utilising the apartments in this stately home reserved for just such a purpose which are a welcome perquisite of their position. They were unfazed by the fancy prices in the excellent weekend only restaurant for they did not have to pay, quaintly signing the bill as is their entitlement as NUTS Apparatchiks. When the NUT Executive demand better pay and conditions for their members I can assure you on this issue they lead both from the front and by example.

The teaching unions are against testing, league tables, out of school activities, academies, faith schools; you name it they are against it! What is far less clear is what they actually stand for. What they seem not to realise is that however inept the Labour Government has been in implementation they are responding to real parent’s concerns over standards, achievement, transparency and accountability. There is also a real public concern about what the extra teaching places, the real support and subsidy of teacher training, the increase in salaries and career paths for teachers and the huge real increase in the Education budget over the past 11 years has actually achieved.

There are real issues in U.K. Education in relation to choice, access, achievement and motivation and, whisper it, value for money. In the U.K. there is no doubt that children are spuriously over tested and forced to specialise too early resulting in an imbalanced education for secondary school leavers who can graduate without a foreign language, a knowledge of Geography or History and frequently without an effective ability to express themselves in writing or verbally. So there is a real and welcome debate to be had but until the teachers unions lead from the front and show the two “V’s”, that they have both a Vocation and a Vision there is little danger of their setting the agenda and being respected by their Pupils or indeed the Parent’s whose confidence they have lost.

The NUTS Conference in particular is the last playground of the irrelevant left wing juvenilia which has been so discredited in most other fields of endeavour. So, six of the best for the teachers and write out 100 times “MUST DO BETTER NEXT YEAR”. Sadly, this is a journey where it is possibly better to travel than to arrive, for like many of their half baked graduates the teaching profession seem to have lost the ability to learn the lessons of history. O.K. NUTS it’s time to get out of the playground and join the real world. That way you’ll get the respect of your pupils and their Grown Ups!

Monday, 24 March 2008

Joseph Beuys and me.





The German artist Joseph Beuys who has been variously described as a sculptor, draughtsman, creator of action-performances, political leader and teacher has been in the news of late.

The art collector and dealer Anthony d’Offay has recently donated his impressive collection, valued at £125 m, of work by modern artists to the Tate Modern and the National Galleries of Scotland. It contains 725 works by the likes of Andy Warhol, Gilbert and George, Damien Hirst and no less than 136 works by Joseph Beuys.


He has been also cited as a great influence by the hugely influential Swiss architects Herzog and de Muren who were responsible for conversion of Giles Gilbert Scott’s iconic power station at Bankside into the Tate Modern Art Gallery but who will be in the news in the coming weeks as the Olympics take place in their amazing “birds nest” stadium in Beijing. So who is this inspirational German sculptor and performance artist?

Joseph Beuys was born May 12, 1921, in Krefeld, Germany. During his school years in Kleve, Beuys was exposed to the work of Achilles Moortgat, whose studio he often visited, and was inspired by the sculptures of Wilhelm Lehmbruck. Beuys began to study medicine in 1940, but his studies were interrupted when he joined the army and served as a fighter pilot. During a mission in 1943, he was badly injured when his plane crashed in a desolate region of south Russia. This experience would resonate in all of his later work and in particular he would later claim as inspiration that his life was saved by Tartars who found him burnt and suffering from hypothermia and covered his body in fat and wrapped him in tarpaulin and animal skins to save his life. Beuys claimed the tactile and sensory qualities of these materials resonated with him thereafter and they appear continuously both in his “sculptures” and in his performance art.


After the war, he took up the study of art. In 1947, he registered at the Staatliche Kunstakademie Düsseldorf, where he studied under Joseph Enseling and Ewald Mataré. After Beuys graduated in 1951, the brothers Franz Joseph and Hans van der Grinten began to collect his work. Eventually becoming his most important patrons, they organized his first solo show at their house in Kranenburg in 1953. Beuys was appointed professor of monumental sculpture at the Staatliche Kunstakademie Düsseldorf in 1961. The year after, he began to associate with Fluxus artists, principally Nam June Paik and George Maciunas, and later he met Minimalist artist Robert Morris. He helped to organize the Festum Fluxorum Fluxus at the Staatliche Kunstakademie Düsseldorf in 1963, and he participated for the first time in Documenta in Kassel in 1964.

In 1967, Beuys founded the German Student Party, one of the numerous political groups that he organized during the next decade. In 1972, he was dismissed from the Staatliche Kunstakademie Düsseldorf amid great controversy for admitting to his class over 50 students who previously had been rejected. The following year, he founded the Free International University for Creativity and Interdisciplinary Research. He increasingly became involved in political activities and in 1976 ran for the German Bundestag. In 1978, he was made a member of the Akademie der Kunst, Berlin. The 1970s were also marked by numerous exhibitions throughout Europe and the United States. Beuys represented Germany at the Venice Biennale in 1976 and 1980. A retrospective of his work was held at the Guggenheim Museum, New York, in 1979. He was made a member of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Stockholm, in 1980. During the inauguration of the 1982 Documentain Kassel, Beuys planted the first of 7,000 oak trees; in other cities, he repeated this tree-planting action several times in the following years. On January 23, 1986, Beuys died in Düsseldorf, aged 64.



So far so good and indeed so worthy you may think. However some caveats arise when discussing Joseph Beuys, his motivation and output. For one thing the story about his being shot down and rescued by Tatars turns out to be fabricated. That is to say it never happened so it follows that his “artworks” based on tarpaulin, tar, fat, ropes, sledges and animal hides don’t resonate with anything. Most likely in the desperate times after the war in a destroyed Germany heaving with penniless refugees he found art as a way of expiating his own war experience and of making a living by playing on the guilt of Germans about the war and the undoubted suffering of soldiers on the eastern front and the huge suffering of the displaced civilian German populations from the Sudetenland, Silesia, Pomerania and East Prussia. Needless to say his aficionados and no doubt his dealers were wholly unfazed by these revelations; No doubt it added to the irony of his output and proved that if you believed it was art it is art and if you produced objects people believed were art then, ipso facto, you were an artist! Q.E.D.

He developed what he called “His expanded concept of Art” which can be summed up as you don’t need to be an artist to create art and your output doesn’t need to meet the conventional concept of art. So his performances utilised the palate of objects from his experience (which never happened) amongst the Tatars and usually consisted of smearing, wrapping, cleaning, and unwrapping sometimes with the addition of a disjointed commentary and dead squirrels. This, we were meant to feel, was an ironic observation on human angst, suffering and mortality and if it was disjointed and haphazard it reflected life / death and the imperfection of human life. So his “sculptors” tend to consist of mannequins smeared in fat, wrapped in rope and tarpaulin and perched on chairs or laid prone on the floor on (you guessed it) tarpaulin. He has also done blocks of fat, fat wrapped in tarred paper, tarred rope in bundles, etc; etc; yawn, yawn! To symbolise the retreat from the east in the snow he tied 31 sledges with ropes to a VW minibus and each sledge contains fat wrapped in tarpaulin and rope. How ironic I hear you say!

When I met Joseph Beuys in 1974 he was going through his Black board phase. His doodles on chalkboards with ludicrous titles were the antithesis of conventional art as they were impermanent, one dimensional and monochrome.



I met him at a reception at the Hugh Lane Gallery of Modern Art in Dublin
in 1974 when Beuys lectured in England and Ireland with his touring exhibition of drawings entitled, “The Secret Block for a Secret Person in Ireland”. These he had collected over the years as evidence of the most crucial points in the development of his “expanded concept of art”. The Blackboards were executed in conjunction with a lecture he gave at the Hugh Lane Gallery at this time. The chalk drawings and words represent what the artist was trying to offer as a cure for the political crisis in Ireland as well as for people’s private problems. Well I was there and heard his lecture and saw his 13 blackboards which were to point the way towards peace in Ireland. The lecture was hard going, you just didn’t know whether to laugh or cry but it was a picture of clarity compared to the gibberish doodled on the chalkboards. But this 6’ 4” tall charismatic ex-Stuka pilot had done it again. As in post war Germany he pretended that his “art” could offer an answer to conflict and he went on an extended jolly sponsored by arts councils and galleries in England and Ireland. The Hugh Lane Gallery has three of the chalk boards in their permanent collection to this day – I shudder to think what they paid for them!


The Blackboards helping us find peace in Ireland!

At the reception afterwards I had an extended conversation with Joseph Beuys even if I did bite my tongue somewhat in company. Indeed things flowed so well at the end I asked him would he be prepared to give a talk at the college where I was Secretary of the Student’s Union at our first Student Festival which was happening that week and he agreed. I was delighted with my coup, particularly as I hadn’t mentioned that the college authorities only paid a fee of £50. My happiness was short lived as soon afterwards his agent came up to me and told me I would need to sign a contract in the morning and his fee was £1,500 to give a lecture. I pleaded poverty without mentioning the risible fee paid by the college but he wouldn’t come down as he said if he did so Joseph Beuys would devalue his “brand”. So the Student Festival went ahead without the Stuka Pilot’s contribution and the only history made was my organising the Boomtown Rats first concert. (http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/08/bob-geldof-and-me.html ) I suppose a little history is better than none!

So despite my misgivings Joseph Beuys has been influential. Without him we wouldn’t have displays of pickled sharks and heads of frozen blood as artists brands are built by media savvy agents and dealers who are skilled in plugging into public subsidy and private vanity where rich patrons validate their self esteem by conspicuous consumption of impenetrable “artworks” which show they are cleverer than the lumpen proletariat who just “don’t get it.”


Many years later I made the unfortunate mistake of paying £9.50 to see the four finalists for the Turner Prize at the Tate. A Derry performance artist, Willie Doherty, had an entry which consisted of a dark room which you entered. On screens on either end was a video shot of the same scene on the Craigavon Bridge in Derry of a man running towards the camera and on the other screen of the same man running away from the camera. This was meant to speak to me of the trauma and dislocation caused by the troubles in Ireland. Oh yeah? I’m sorry Willie; I wasn’t impressed as many years before I had met the daddy of pretend artists, Joseph Beuys.

As for the old Stuka Pilot himself, I sure when he went for his last dive you could not hear the screeching of the bomber above his raucous laughter that he had got away with it for so long and judging by the value of his “work” he still does!

Sunday, 23 March 2008

The Harbour front at Pothia, Kalymnos.


Arriving in Kalymnos

The Greek island of Kalymnos is situated between Kos and Leros and is the fourth largest island in the Dodecanese, the chain which largely clings to the Turkish coast from Rhodes in the south to Samos in the north; there are a number of other smaller islands around Kalymnos however, only Pserimos and Telendos are inhabited.




Apostoli's Kafeion



Kalymnos is best known as the island of some of the world's finest sponge divers. The sea has always been a focal element of local life, which has preserved its traditional character colours and style to a great extent. The “high street” of the island is the harbour front of Pothia (The Port) which has a dramatic setting in a natural amphitheatre facing towards Kos, some 10 miles distant. The life of the island revolves around this harbour front with fishing boats; inter island ferries and visiting yachts and pleasure boats providing a continually changing spectacle. The harbour front is best viewed from the sea where the domes of the Orthodox churches on and overlooking the harbour, the Italianate public buildings from the Italian Occupation (1912 – 1944) and the whitewashed houses rising from the harbour front provide a charming vista leading the eye onwards as far as the Kastro, the 14th Century Castle of the knights of St. John who occupied these islands from 1308 to 1522 when the forces of Suleiman the Magnificent conquered them.


Monastery of Agios Savvas overlooking Pothia

In the 19th Century this was the centre of the world sponge industry and still an important festival takes place one week after Easter just before the sponge fleet departs for its four-month expedition to the waters between southern Italy and the north coast of Africa. Known as Sponge Week, the weeklong celebration is feast of food, drink, and dance. The dances depict the relation between the Kalymnian people and the sponge (the Kalymnian “Gold” as it is often referred to) and recount the joy and the tragedy of this incredibly dangerous deep-sea endeavor. Known as the “Dinner of Love” in former times it was a poignant affair as roundly 20% of the divers would either be killed and not return or be crippled by the “bends”. This is a story ably told by an English woman settled on the island, Faith Warn in her book “The Bitter Sea”.

Today this is a very “Greek” Greek island with its own distinctive cultural and musical traditions and little trace that for 640 years until 1948 it was separated from Greece proper. The reasons it maintained its Greek identity are to be found in its language and religion. Overlooking the harbour on a hill is the monastery dedicated to St. Savvas, Agios Savvas, the Orthodox priest who led the opposition to Italian rule and the latinisation of the island and who died in 1948, the year Kalymnos was reunited with the motherland.



The harbour front bustles all year round for even in winter the returnees from the Kalymnian Diaspora to Tarpon Springs in Florida and Darwin in Australia return so the cafes and restaurants bustle all year round and English is widely spoken, albeit with an American or strine accent!

At the far end of the harbour from the ferries you find the authentic fish restaurants who bring you into the open kitchens and let you choose from that day’s catch. There is little point in asking what the fish are as they have different Greek names to the ones we are used to so navigate by site. Our favourite for a traditional seafood lunch is Baba Stoukas, the best of the many fish restaurants which nuzzle the harbour front. We break bread here with our good buddy Bill Psaros. Bill is a Greek- American polymath originally from Detroit who moved to the Kalymnian colony of Tarpon Springs in Florida and then to Kalymnos where his family hailed from. The cathedral in Pothia is built on land donated by his family and his grandfather was a mason on the cathedral sized church on the other side of the harbour built in some style by the wealthy sponge merchants in C19.


Cathedral Pothia




Baba Stoukas



Fish is good in Kalymnos as are the Octopus croquettes and the pungent garlic sauce. Another specialty is Horta, the wild greens of the island served as a side dish. Kalymnos is a very traditional island with a distinct musical tradition and a strong sense of identity forged by the harshness of the sponge fishing in the past and the pain of emigration by the Kalymnian Diaspora in America and Australia.

Another favourite people watching location the traditional family Kafeoin run by Apostoli. His pastries and deserts are all traditional specialities of the island and are justifiably famous. The most well known and a speciality of the island is "Galaktoboureko" a sticky desert as if semolina pudding has been mated with Baklava!

Kalymnos is like the Clapham Junction of the Greek ferry system in the Dodecanese and there is a constant stream of Greeks in transit who hop up to Apostoli's to have the best coffee on Kalymnos and to take his deserts home as a very welcome gift when visiting families and friends.

This is a big change from the traditional policy:


Equo ne credite, Teucri
Quidquid id est,
timeo Danaos et dona ferentis

Do not trust the Horse, Trojans
Whatever it is,
I fear the Greeks even when they bring gifts

Virgil (Aeneid)

Incidentally there is now a new Greek word, "Nokiaphobia", a fear of walking into a Greek using a mobile phone!


Pothia is a bit like a Monet, it looks better from a distance than close up but sitting on the harbour front at night surrounded by the hustle and bustle of this busy town with its illuminated churches and watching the ballet like motions of the implausibly large inter island ferries which enter and exit the harbour in less than 15 minutes you absorb something of the pride and spirit of this ancient crossroads which is uniquely Greek.



Farewell to Pothia



Wednesday, 19 March 2008

The Oath of Alexander the Great in 324 B.C.




Alexander the Great also known as Alexander III, was an ancient Greek king of Macedon (356–323 B.C.). He was one of the most successful military commanders in history, and was undefeated in battle. By the time of his death, he had conquered most of the world known to the ancient Greeks. The Greek (or more properly Macedonian) Empire did not survive his death and descended into warfare and jostling for position.

By 270 BC, the Hellenistic states were consolidated into;



The Antigonid Empire in Macedonia and Greece;

The Seleucid Empire in Mesopotamia and Persia;

The Ptolemaic Kingdom in Egypt, Palestine and Cyrenaica



Alexandros III Philippou Makedonon (Alexander the Great, Alexander III of Macedon) (356-323 B.C.), King of Macedonia, was born in late July 356 BC in Pella, Macedonia, he was one of the greatest military genius in history. He conquered much of what was then the civilized world, driven by his divine ambition of the world conquest and the creation of a universal world monarchy. Arrian describes Alexander: the strong, handsome commander with one eye dark as the night and one blue as the sky, always leading his army on his faithful Bucephalus. Alexander inherited from his father King Philip the best military formation of the time, the Macedonian Phalanx, armed with sarisses - the fearful five and half meter long lances. He was the first great conqueror who reached Greece, Egypt, Asia Minor, and Asia up to western India. He is famous for having created the ethnic fusion of the Macedonians and the Persians. From victory to victory, from triumph to triumph, Alexander created an empire which brought him eternal glory. He brought Greek ideas, culture and life style to the countries which he conquered, and assured expansion and domination of Hellenistic Culture which, together with Roman Civilization and Christianity, constitutes the foundation of what is now called Western Civilization.


Kingdom of Macedon

There is no doubt that he was a superb military commander but also that his campaigns were blood thirsty and like all wars of conquest involved great loss of life and cruelty to the conquered peoples. However he did create a remarkable empire stretching from Greece to India and ushered in the Hellenistic Age which saw an acceleration of human development and trade and the fusion of cultures in the Mediterranean and Middle East acting as a catalyst to the development of three of the greatest cultures the world has known and three of the world’s main religions. Alexander himself was open to foreign cultures and peoples. He integrated many foreigners into his army, leading some scholars to credit him with a "policy of fusion."


Alexander as pharaoh on a relief in Luxor in the
Temple of Amenhotep III


He also encouraged marriages between his soldiers and foreigners. He himself went on to marry two foreign princesses; Roxana, daughter of a Bactrian nobleman (from the area of Kandahar in modern Afghanistan) and Stateira, a Persian princess and daughter of Darius III of Persia.

It is in this context that his Oath, made at the end of his conquests, appeared to pave the way forward and is often quoted in Greece, the photo attached displays it on a monument in Kos Town. It compares well with the modern fashion for “equality statements” and Kos Town, where it is displayed, is a town with Greek, Roman, Crusader, Ottoman and Italian remains and in recent times (1943) has had a mixed Greek, Turkish, Italian and Jewish population. Whatever Alexander’s good intentions he is mainly remembered for the scale of his blood thirsty conquests as the following year he died at the age of 32, probably of malaria.




The Empire of Alexandra the Great


“Now with the end of the wars I wish you to be happy with peace. All the mortals henceforth to live as a harmonised people for the common prosperity. Consider the world your country with common laws which will govern the best men independently from the race.”



“I make no distinction between Greeks and Barbarians.”

“The origin of citizens, or the race into which they were born, is of no concern to me. I have only one criterion by which to distinguish them - virtue. For me, any good foreigner is a Greek and any bad Greek is worse than a Barbarian. “



“You must not consider GOD as an autocratic Governor, but as a common FATHER of all, in order for your behaviour to look like the life led by a family of brothers.”



“I, on my part, see you all as EQUAL, whether you are white or dark-skinned and I should like you not simply to be subjects of my commonwealth, but members of it, partners of it."



These are extracts from the Oath of Alexander the Great sworn before tribal leaders in 324 BC at the town of Opis, an ancient Babylonian city, not far from modern Baghdad.

The year after making this oath on the afternoon of June 10–11, 323 BC, Alexander died in the palace of Nebuchadrezzar II of Babylon. He was just one month short of 33 years of age.


Alexander the Great
Basileus of Macedon, Hegemon of the Hellenic League, Pharaoh of Egypt, Shahanshah of Persia

Monday, 17 March 2008

To Bear the Unbearable!


I share with you in full this fine report from the BBC today. I can only echo the view of the Irish Playwright, Brendan Behan, in "Borstal Boy" that they charged him in abstentia, they tried him in abstentia so they can now go ahead and hang him in abstentia!

"The taste of honey was just too tempting for a bear in Macedonia, which repeatedly raided a beekeeper's hives. Now it has a criminal record after a court found it guilty of theft and criminal damage.

But there was an empty dock in the court in the city of Bitola and no handcuffed bear, which was convicted in its absence. The case was brought by the exasperated beekeeper after a year of trying vainly to protect his beehives.

For a while, he kept the animal away by buying a generator, lighting up the area, and playing thumping Serbian turbo-folk music. But when the generator ran out of power and the music fell silent, the bear was back and the honey was gone once more.

"It attacked the beehives again," said beekeeper Zoran Kiseloski.

Because the animal had no owner and belonged to a protected species, the court ordered the state to pay for the damage to the hives - around $3,500 (£1,750; 2,238 euros).

The bear, meanwhile, remains at large - somewhere in Macedonia."

BBC News - 17th March 2008.

Sunday, 16 March 2008

Up, up and away with BAA?


Last Friday 14th March 2007 when BAA opened Terminal 5 at Heathrow should have been a day of celebration for the company but on the same day a committee of MPs has called for the break-up of BAA, saying that its dominance has proved stifling for competition. BAA, owned by the Spanish brick company Ferrovial, runs London's Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted airports, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen and Southampton.

MPs said BAA's dominance is "bad for passengers" and the aviation industry. BAA said a break-up would only delay "the provision of extra runway and terminal capacity". However the MP’s committee has stated "BAA's monopoly position in the UK airports sector is unnecessary. Indeed, it is bad for passengers and bad for the aviation industry.

BAA was bought by Ferrovial for £12 Bn, mostly borrowed as the Spaniards put in only £460 of their own money and £10.5 Bn. of this debt still sits on its balance sheet. The real winners were BAA’s former shareholders who happily accepted their absurdly inflated bid. Now Ferrovial with the connivance of the so called regulator, the CAA, is saddled with these huge debts which it would like us, the travelling public to pay off. The company serves almost 150m passengers a year but in the past year has been attacked by the public and airline industry alike for its mismanagement of airport operations with third world style camp outs in its terminals and horrendous security queues.

The criticism of BAA is that it should have predicted the predictable and planned accordingly but basic infrastructure has been dismal such as the inadequate luggage handling system at Terminal 4. It also turns out that Terminal 5 has been built as a result of a succession of broken promises by BAA which has consistently lied about its intentions over the years.

BAA’s recently departed managing director Stephen Nelson admitted to MP’s that, 12 years ago BAA had given public assurances that proved to be false, saying that a third runway would not be needed.

In 1995 BAA stated in its official newsletter: “BAA has said repeatedly that Terminal 5 will not lead to a third runway. BAA has said repeatedly THERE WILL NOT BE A THIRD RUNWAY. And BAA has been proved right. The Secretary of State has accepted the BAA view. The issue has been settled; people’s concerns have been met. What now of those who claimed BAA was not telling the truth?”

In 2001 BAA and the Government accepted the recommendation of the planning inspector who approved Terminal 5 that the number of flights at Heathrow should be capped at 480,000. However, despite those BAA assurances in 1995, ministers now support a third runway and a plan was published in November that would increase the capacity to 702,000 flights.

The double standard has led to a rash of broken promises on Heathrow. Terminal 4 was approved in 1978, subject to a cap on annual traffic movements of 275,000. Two years later BAA recorded 287,000 movements and 376,000 in 1990. When Terminal 5 was approved in 2001, the planning inspector and BAA stated that a third runway would be “totally unacceptable”, and set a new cap of 480,000 movements. But by 2003 a White Paper aimed at 700,000.

But BAA has not misled the public on its own but has had a collusive relationship with central government with its current head of Public Affairs being Tom Kelly, former press secretary to Tony Blair. Take the current Heathrow greenwash first. Ministers repeat the mantra that “Heathrow's expansion will only go ahead within strict environmental limits”. But they know full well that the absence of legal standards on noise leaves communities defenceless. New EU air-quality standards had looked like an insuperable hurdle to a third runway, but are being fudged with ropey claims that road traffic emissions will fall. Two weeks ago the Advertising Standards Authority ordered British Airways to withdraw the claim, made by its CEO in an e-mail to Executive Club members, that the third runway would reduce carbon dioxide emissions because aircraft would no longer have to waste fuel queuing to take off or land. This flatly contradicted Whitehall models, which assume that the new runway will raise CO2 emissions by 2.6 million tonnes a year from the 200,000 extra flights. When I lived on the Great West Road in Hounslow directly under the landing approach a mile from the airport the houses had triple glazing and soudbox ventilators to cope with the environmental fall-out. Walking outside you inhaled air that smelt and tasted of Avjet, as modern aircraft are particularly inefficient at burning fuel when the engines are throttled back for landing.

Secondly, take the arguments about capacity. BAA's figures demonstrate clearly that Heathrow is not full. Not remotely. The appendix to the government consultation on the third runway states that 67 million passengers used Heathrow in 2006, and that this could rise to 122 million if a third runway were built. But it also shows that 95 million people could use Heathrow if “maximum use were made of existing runways”. At one stroke we are looking at a deception, perhaps the greatest ever perpetrated on the British people by the optimistically named Department for Transport. For BAA itself is telling us that 28 million more people could use Heathrow without a new runway and without breaking the cap on flights.

How? By using larger planes and filling more seats. Jeff Gazzard, of Airport Watch, says that if Heathrow were not allowed to expand, it could spur the airline industry to invest more rapidly in larger aircraft like the A380, on which some are already hedging their bets. Bigger planes would not solve climate change, although they would reduce local pollution. The point is that we have been told that Heathrow is full when it is not. That kind of distortion suggests that the DfT has ceased to function as an arm of government and has become a mere subsidiary of BAA.

The justification is the importance of aviation to the economy. It would be foolish to argue that air travel is not important to business. But some of the mythology is misleading. The growth in air traffic is overwhelmingly from leisure travel, not business. More than 80 per cent of international travellers at UK airports, and 60 per cent at Heathrow, are holidaymakers. Outbound tourism outstrips inbound, creating a whopping £18 billion balance of payments deficit. Only this week, the Travelodge chain of hotels called for an end to unfair tax breaks for budget airlines, which it said were “the single biggest cause of decline in traditional [UK] tourism resorts”. It is one thing to treat the air industry as a special case; it is quite another thing to distort the facts. And here the Government's collusion with the industry is a problem.

No where does this collusion seem more dramatic than with the unfit for purpose “watchdog” the Civil Aviation Authority, the CAA, and its passenger watchdog, The Air Users Council which has been so inept in enforcing air passengers rights under EU Law. 261 that the EU has threatened enforcement action against them and Ryanair actually give passengers a leaflet saying the law is stupid and they won’t comply with it. I must remember this defence the next time I’m stopped by a police officer! I’m sure I would receive a succinct response.

Anybody who has used Heathrow’s clapped out facilities over the past 5 years has helped pay for the gleaming new Terminal 5 but as it is reserved for British Airways customers they will not have the benefit of it if they fly with another airline. Despite this they will get to share the burden of a 23.5% increase in airport charges next month as in a dramatic award for failure the CAA has allowed BAA to double charges over the next 5 years. What does BAA have to do other than sit back and count the cash?

As for Terminal 5 when the Queen opened this terminal of broken promises on Friday this was a “soft” opening with a hand picked and screened audience lest Her Majesty, Government Ministers and BAA’s exceptionally talented and remunerated management be exposed to the gratitude of the travelling public. It will start to open to real people on the 27th March. One surprise is that 54% of gates will not have air bridges and consequently step free access as provided for under phase 3 of the Disability Discrimination Act which became law in October 2006. Indeed under our wonderful regulator disabled people are effectively excluded from UK airports unless they book “assistance” in advance, which is not what the Act says. Perhaps the Government could pursue its “Respect” agenda by respecting its own laws and ensuring its regulator enforces them?

Monday, 10 March 2008

The Years of the French.


Storming of the Bastille

Bastille Day 14th July 2007, was the 218th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille Prison in France, an event profoundly ignored here entre les Rosbifs.

It is hard to recall the French Revolution without thinking of the response of the Chinese Premier Chou En Lai, who when asked what he thought was its impact answered "It is too early to tell!"

On July 14, 1789, the storming of the Bastille in Paris immediately took on a greater historical dimension; it was proof that power no longer resided in the King as God's representative, but in the people, in accordance with the theories developed by their philosophers of the eighteenth century. Within two days the Revolution could not be reversed. For all citizens of France, the storming of the Bastille came to symbolize liberty and democracy in the struggle against oppression.

People are often unaware of the unique Irish contribution to both sides of the events. The charge of the mob on the Bastille Prison was led by Robespierre’s Irish assistant and of the only seven prisoners they found inside one was an Irish lunatic who thought he was Julius Caesar!

This was to be only the beginning of the influence of French Republicanism on Ireland as Republicanism provided a model to Irish Nationalists opposed to English domination of Ireland. The republican revolutions in France and United States during the late 18th century greatly influenced radical Irish thinkers, who wanted democratic reforms, more independence from Britain and an end to discrimination, particularly against Catholics. The Irish leaders were mainly drawn from the professional educated middle classes and were inspired by the ideas of Tom Paine, Voltaire and Rousseau. What is not widely realised is that Irish Republicanism was founded by Ulster Protestants as the Penal Laws and The Act of Uniformity which decreed everybody had to belong to the Established Church of England also discriminated against the Presbyterians of Ulster. These (along with Quakers and Huguenots) were the Dissenters or non-conformists, labels which are in disuse today.

The original non-sectarian nature of Irish Republicanism, which was later debased by crypto fascists using the “Republican” label, can be seen from this extract from the Original Declaration of the United Irishmen.

“That no reform is practicable, efficacious, or just, which shall not include Irishmen of every religious persuasion. Satisfied, as we are, …………………………………And we do call on, and most earnestly exhort, our countrymen in general to follow our example, and to form similar societies in every quarter of the kingdom for the promotion of constitutional knowledge, the abolition of bigotry in religion and politics, and the equal distribution of the rights of men through all sects and denominations of Irishmen.”

The United Irishmen were the first group to advocate an independent Irish republic. With military aid from the republican government in France, they organised the failed Irish Rebellion of 1798. Whilst not sharing the virulent anti-clericalism of the French Revolutionaries there was a definite commitment to a secular Republic with a clear separation of Church and State. The United Irishmen looked to their fellow Republicans in France and the Directoire sent fraternal assistance on two occasions.

In 1796 French ships carrying 12,000 troops and the United Irish leader Wolfe Tone arrived unseen and unchallenged just outside Bantry Bay, a large naval base in Cork. This amazing success was outweighed by the fact that they could not land due to the unfavourable winds. After six days of waiting dangerous storms blew up and the attempt to land was abandoned. The fleet returned to France and Ireland had to wait a while longer for her revolution. There is endless and largely fruitless speculation ever since about how different the next 200 years might have been had Tone landed. This was the second time the French and Bantry Bay had met in Irish history for a French fleet had arrived there in 1689 to support James II against William of Orange in the campaign which resulted in James defeat at the Battle of the Boyne.


French Fleet Bantry Bay

In 1798, the Catholic peasants of Wexford, driven to desperation by savage landlordism, created a movement powerful enough to capture and hold Wexford town and many of its outlying areas. At one stage it seemed that the Wexford rebels would link up with their comrades from Carlow and Kilkenny and march on Dublin. In June mainly Protestant Ulster caught the revolutionary fever.

In August 1798, Nine years after the French Revolution, a fleet of ships carrying over 1.100 officers and men from revolutionary France and Irish patriots landed in County Mayo, in westernmost Ireland. They were supposed to be an advance guard, followed by other French ships with the leader of the rebellion, Wolfe Tone. Briefly they triumphed, raising hopes among the impoverished local peasantry and gathering a group of supporters. The hope and despair of the remarkable “Year of the French” is caught in the marvelous historical novel of the same name by Thomas Flanagan and by Thomas Pakenham in “The Year of Liberty.”

English rule in Ireland did indeed totter in 1798 — but it survived and the insurgency collapsed in the face of a brutal English counterattack. More than 30,000 Irish, overwhelmingly peasants, were slaughtered in the months of revolt. The immediate political legacy was one of repression, terror and communal division.

In the aftermath of the rebellion the British government decided to adopt a new and more drastic solution to the Irish question. They concluded that the self-government that had existed until this point had not only been ineffective but had contributed to the revolutionary mood. It would be replaced with an Act of Union which would ensure that Ireland would be governed from the Westminster parliament on the same terms as the rest of the United Kingdom. So in 1800, after an infamous campaign of bribery, corruption and intimidation the Act of Union was passed and my home town of Dublin lost it’s Parliament and a great deal of it’s wealth and influence.

This was however not the end to French support for Irish revolution. In 1802 France and Britain had made the uneasy peace of the treaty of Amiens. However, covertly driven by self-interest the French government promised a large military force to support a rising in Ireland. They also had made agreements with revolutionary movements in Scotland and England with the intention of encircling Britain.

In Ireland the United Irishmen gathered pledges from influential backers still opposed to the Act of Union to support a rising financially and morally. Thomas Addis Emmet returned to Ireland in the autumn of 1802 and during the winter of 1802 the first half of 1803 he organised and armed the United Irishmen. Although he was mainly confined to Dublin, he was in close contact with groups in Carlow, Wicklow and Wexford. Everything went as it should until 16 July 1803 when an explosion took place in a house on Patrick Street in Dublin. This house was in use as depot for arms and explosives and the explosion had not only blown up the house, but also the secrecy.

The discovery of the plans forced Thomas Emmet to fix an earlier date for the rising, and therefore a rising without French support. Because the signals from the rest of the country were positive he decided Saturday 23 July as the day of the rising. Despite the promises and intentions Thomas Emmet found out that only a fraction of the men expected had turned up. Groups outside Dublin failed to rise due to poor attendance. The rebellion was doomed before it started and with a signal rocket Thomas' brother Robert Emmet ended the organised rising at 9pm. The soldiers retreated to barracks where they remained until the danger had passed. Thomas Addis Emmet fled to France but his brother Robert was captured and sentenced to death after a trial where he made his famous speech from the dock which includes, amongst others, this ringing passage:


Robert Emmet

“I am charged with being an emissary of France An emissary of France? And for what end? It is alleged that I wished to sell the independence of my country? And for what end? Was this the object of my ambition? And is this the mode by which a tribunal of justice reconciles contradictions? No, I am no emissary; and my ambition was to hold a place among the deliverers of my country--not in power, nor in profit, but in the glory of the achievement!...”

Emmet's trial, at which a Castle spy represented him, is mainly remembered for this stirring speech and his stab at the 'hanging judge' that "Lord Norbury might easily drown in the blood of those he had sent to the gallows". Norbury sentenced him to a traitor's death. On 20 September 1803, Robert Emmet, was publicly hanged, drawn and Quartered outside St. Catherine’s Church in Thomas Street, Dublin. He was the last person to receive this barbaric sentence from a British court. Many years later I had the privilege of being at St. Catherine’s at the unveiling of a plaque to the 18 ordinary Dublin workingmen who were also executed in the same barbaric manner with Robert Emmet.


Execution of Robert Emmet

The truth is that Robert Emmet was an inept revolutionary but his idealism and courage cannot be doubted. His speech from the dock is still a clarion call of integrity, in the context in which it was delivered the courage required is beyond understanding. The image of this young member of the Protestant Ascendancy was further enhanced by two class mates from Trinity College who shared in the revulsion at his fate, Robert Curran whose sister Sarah he courted and Thomas Moore who composed several allegorical ballads in his memory including “The Minstrel Boy”. When Thomas Emmet returned to France he found the revolution had taken another turn under Bonaparte and in 1815 another member of the Irish Protestant Ascendancy, Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, crushed its military power entirely at the Battle of Waterloo.

The Emmet rebellion brought to an end the 14 years of active French involvement in Irish Independence and my home town of Dublin went into a deep slumber in the 19th Century which made it a byword for poverty and paradoxically preserved much of its Georgian inheritance. A slumber which was to dramatically end with the cataclysmic awakening of the 1916 Rising.

The French Revolution may have happened 218 years ago but in Ireland it continues to influence and inform the body politic I can only echo the words of Chou En Lai when considering its impact and suggest "It is too early to tell!"

Wednesday, 5 March 2008

Telendos, a place apart




On the west coast of the Greek Island of Kalymnos in the Dodecanese off the coast of Turkey you come to the small port (basically a jetty) of Myrties. Here your senses are cooled after the hustle and bustle of Pothia by the beautiful sheltered stretch of water known as Telendos Sound and the mysterious brooding presence of the island of the same name, Telendos.

Quayside



From Myrties you must take a boat across the Sound to the magical island of Telendos. It is basically a mountain in the sea with no paved roads or vehicles, 3 beaches, 50 permanent inhabitants, six excellent tavernas and one island donkey called Samson. The sound created between Telendos and Kalymnos is a beautiful sheltered stretch of water and don’t worry about ferry timetables or getting back. Telendos lies about 700 metres off the coast of Kalymnos, of which it was once part. In an earthquake of 554 BC, which according to the historiographer Agathias lasted for 14 days, the ground subsided and the channel of water separating the two islands came into being. On the bed of the sea, important ruins have been found of the ancient buildings in a large city which has been tentatively identified as Pothaea, the original island capital.



The terrain of Telendos is mountainous, with Rachi (458 m) as the highest peak. There are also remains of a Roman town, a castle, and the medieval monastery of St Basil. There are a number of small beaches all within 10 to 15 minutes walk, there being no roads on the island. Some of the walk is paved whilst access to the more remote and secluded beaches is via stony rough ground.

Byzantine Churches

The boatmen have their own system and no matter what time you finish a meal on Telendos there is a boat to bring you back for one euro. The harbour is small and quiet, and is reached by using any of the regular small ferry boats travelling between the island and the port has numerous tavernas along the waterfront and some small supermarket shops selling water and essentials. The two I’d particularly recommend are the Telendos Taverna run by Nikos who in winter is a waiter in Florida and On the Rocks run with some flair by Greek Aussies and which has a 6th Century basilica in its back yard! All the tavernas specialise in fresh fish simply cooked which have been landed by the island’s fishermen that morning.

Hoklakas Beach

Telendos is a place apart, a place get off and let the world go by so you won’t find it easy to take the short ferry ride back to the “mainland”. Go there, turn off and enjoy a time and experience which is all too rare in the modern world.

Monday, 3 March 2008

Evolution of Dance

Sunday, 2 March 2008

Claydon House, Buckinghamshire.


Garden Front


"Florrie's Waggon"

Lying some 12 miles to the north west of Aylesbury are the group of villages known as “The Claydons”, Steeple Claydon, Middle Claydon and East Claydon. Evidence suggests that the earliest setters began the creation of these villages around 660 AD on sits on the ridges which gave protection from flooding and allowed the erection of windmills which were typical of this part of Buckinghamshire. The name Claydon derives from the Anglo-Saxon for clayey hill with Steeple thought to have been added in recognition of a tower or steeple on the church. Today this area is a charming part of Buckinghamshire off the beaten track with an abundance of thatched cottages and it contains my favourite country house in Middle Claydon, the ancestral home of the Verney family, Claydon House. Set in unspoilt water meadows and pastures the vista from the house has none of the modern world intruding which is why it is frequently used as a backdrop for films and costume dramas.


The extraordinary architecture of Claydon House includes extravagant rococo and chinoiserie decoration. Features of the house include the unique Chinese Room and parquetry Grand Stairs. In continuous occupation by the Verney family for over 380 years, the house has mementoes of their relation Florence Nightingale, who was a regular visitor and it has fascinating associations with the Civil War and the Crimean War. The original house was rebuilt by Ralph 2nd Earl Verney between 1757 and 1771. The house as it stands today is a fraction of its original planned size. The original conception was of a mansion to rival the richer Earl Temple's huge mansion at Stowe, a few miles away near Buckingham.


Florence Nightingale

This is where Florence Nightingale, sister to a nineteenth-century Lady Verney, spent many happy years. The 'Lady of the Lamp' was famed for her nursing in the Crimean War in 1854, but Florence Nightingale was also a pioneer in campaigning for improving standards of rural nursing practice. She regularly stayed at Claydon House and wrote over 200 books, pamphlets and reports about how to improve rural medicine. She had the support of Dr George De'Ath of Buckingham and the pair became known as 'Heath Missioners' and they set up the pioneer Bucks County Hospital. In 1883 Nightingale was awarded the Royal Red Cross by Queen Victoria. In 1907 she became the first woman to be awarded the Order of Merit and in 1908 she was given the Honorary Freedom of the City of London. Florence Nightingale died of chronic fatigue syndrome in 1910 and left as her legacy the origins of the modern nursing profession.


Main Stairway

With room after room embellished with carved wood and plasterwork, all painted white, you are rendered almost senseless by the superabundance of eclectic plasterwork decoration in Rococo, Gothick, Chinoiserie and classical styles are all ragingly represented, often wrought together in a surreally rich mix. In the North Hall, wyverns of wood spread their wings on niches swirled about with Rococo foliage, fruit, faces and ho-ho birds. Cherubs leap from the ceiling, embracing axes and cannons, as well as muskets, swords and spears; every inch is carved in wood. As for the Chinese Room, where a carved couple enjoy tea in a lilting roofed alcove, smothered with wooden fruit, foliage, icicles and bells that swing at a flick of the finger, it is, without doubt, one of the most extraordinary rooms in England.

What remains today is the “west wing”; this at one time had an identical twin, which contained the ballroom, and other state apartments. The twin wings were separated by a huge colonnaded rotunda surmounted by a cupola (similar, but smaller than that at Ickworth in Suffolk). The 2nd Lord Verney ran into financial problems before the latter two wings were entirely completed, and had to spend the final years of his life on the continent to escape his creditors.


Claydon has been the ancestral home of the Verney family since 1620. The church of All Saints, Middle Claydon lies less than 50 yards from the house and contains many memorials to the Verney family: among them Sir Edmund Verney, who was chief standard bearer to King Charles I during the English Civil War. The 13th Century All Saints Church in the grounds of the Claydon Estate. Sir Edmund was slaughtered at the Battle of Edgehill on October 23, 1642 and is buried in the church at Claydon. It is said that at dusk, on the anniversary of his death every year, an apparition of the battle itself appears on the lawns of the great house, and has been reported by many servants from the house through the years since Sir Edmund's death. In 1661, following the Restoration of the Monarchy, Sir Edmund's son (Sir Ralph Verney II) was awarded a baronetcy by King Charles II for his and his father's loyalty and bravery during the preceding period of unrest. He was later, in 1703, made Viscount of Fermanagh and his grandson was, in 1742, created an Earl. Both titles have since, however, become extinct.

All Saints Church

The present Verney family who still live in the later red brick south wing, are in fact the descendants of Sir Harry Calvert (2nd Baronet) who inherited the house in 1827. He was very tenuously related to the Verneys only through marriage. However, he adopted the name Verney on inheriting.



Chinese Bedroom

The house was given to the National Trust in 1956 by Sir Ralph Verney, 5th Baronet and a famous illustrator and artist in his own right. His son, Sir Edmund Verney, 6th Baronet, a former High Sheriff of Buckinghamshire, lives in the house today. His sister is Mary Verney (Lady Verney) who is a well known violinist and fortepiano player. The Verney name is known to railway buffs through Verney junction described with some hyperbole by Sir. John Betjeman as the “Clapham Junction” of the Metropolitan railway.

The footprint of the Gardens and Grounds were first created by John Sanderson between 1763 and 1776 for the 2nd Earl Verney whose descendants have maintained and redeveloped it in their own way ever since. Today the gardens are experiencing a new phase of restoration and development assisted by a team of 3 to 4 gardeners. The gardens are situated to the South East of the house and can be reached by walking through the arch in the Courtyard and turning right through the lych gate. Immediately through the lych gate is Queen Victoria's walk, and a plaque in her memory can be seen in the wall at the northern end of the walk between the White Wisteria and the Magnolia Grandiflora. To the south of lych gate in the corner of the wall is Ellin's Rest, a small summerhouse in memory of Ellin, sister of the 3rd Baronet, surrounded by scented feminine plants. Alongside the wall behind Ellin's Rest is a border known as "The Ruby Border" as it contains plants given to the 5th Baronet, Sir Ralph and Lady Mary on the occasion of their 40th Wedding Anniversary in 1988.


Ellin's Rest

There is a good restaurant in the stable block along with a snack bar and a farm shop selling the produce of the kitchen garden. There is also a second hand bookshop raising funds for the National Trust as well as an exhibition of artefacts relating to Florence Nightingale. The gardens are a particular feature of the house but the setting of this fine and restrained Georgian house across fields and water meadows partnered by its adjacent church and fine old trees is a timeless vision of a time gone by. The house has been conserved rather than restored by the National Trust and the contrast between the plain exterior and the extraordinary Rococo interiors by Luke Lightfoot never fails to surprise and delight.

It has been described by Lucinda Lambton in Country Life:

"Claydon House in Buckinghamshire, built between 1757 and 1771 by Earl Verney, can be likened to a box of architectural fireworks: plain without, fizzling and sizzling in a variety of stupefyingly sensational styles within. If one house alone could be said to huzzah the structural and decorative splendours of the British Isles, then surely it should be Claydon, where Florence Nightingale, sister to a nineteenth-century Lady Verney, spent many happy years."

How to get there:

By road

In Middle Claydon 13ml NW of Aylesbury, 4ml SW of Winslow; signposted from A413 & A
(M40 exit 9 12ml); entrance by North drive only.