Wednesday, 30 April 2008

E-Towns Ireland.


Off at the weekend on a flight into Shannon Airport to visit to my favourite Irish county. Clare is a county of great variety and natural beauty with the west, dominated by the Atlantic, with the seaside resorts of Kilkee and Lahinch, the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren National Park. The east of the county is heavily influenced by the River Shannon and beautiful Lough Derg, with its ancient monastic sites.

Ennis is the county town, an Information Age Town and a thriving centre which, with its narrow streets and historic buildings, has a continental athmosphere with attractive pubs, cafes and restaurants and an eclectic selection of retailers. Shannon and its airport have been the focus of economic activity in the region for the past forty years. The creation of the Shannon Free Zone was a unique initiative which has been replicated throughout the world. The resulting cluster of multinational firms located at and around Shannon has boosted investment in the county's infrastructure over the years. Shannon was a purpose built new town but it also attracted a diverse cosmopolitan population of South Africans, English, Americans and Canadians which made it a unique catalyst for change in the otherwise homogeneous Ireland of the 60’s and 70’s. West Clare is particularly renowned as a centre for Irish culture - particularly music and dance - and hosts several music and literary festivals each year. Because of its dramatic natural beauty combined with the access to the cities of Limerick and Galway, Ennis and the connections afforded by Shannon Airport the county has always attracted an electric mix of “settlers” artists, writers, entrepreneurs and retirees attracted by the combination of a relaxed lifestyle in unspoilt natural surroundings and the good communication links and facilities. It has also become a major centre of tourism spurred on by Shannon Airport and the development of attractions such as Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, Cliffs of Moher, King John’s Castle Limerick and thatched Irish holiday villages. It contains many fine hotels, such as Dromoland Castle and outstanding golf links.


However the overriding story of Clare has been one of emigration and depopulation. The population of 225,000 at the 1822 census had declined to 106,000 by 1996. In recent times with the economic boom in Ireland known as the “Celtic Tiger” this trend has reversed and Ireland for the first time in many generations is experiencing net immigration and population growth. Capitalising on this trend and as part of its efforts to regenerate the region the local development body, Shannon Development, has started to develop E-Villages as integral parts of local communities to attract professionals to ready made work / live developments which will reinforce local communities. Shannon Development is the Irish Government agency responsible for economic development in Ireland’s Shannon Region. The objective of the E-Towns initiative is to enable people to achieve a life/work balance in tailor-made accommodation and bring new economic activity back into local communities. Ireland’s first E-Town is Miltown Malbay, in picturesque West Clare close to the popular seaside resorts of Lahinch, Liscannor and Spanish Point.

E-Towns is a Shannon Development initiative to develop a "21st century model" for the ongoing and future development of smaller communities in the Shannon Region. Its primary aim is to help disperse economic activity and job creation to smaller population centres (by stimulating the development of a complimentary enterprise culture based on the attraction of established urban micro businesses).

Miltown Malbay is a beautiful coastal town situated in North-West Clare and is a popular loction for business people wishing to work and live in a countryside setting with access to the nearby amentiies of a City location. Its year round population stands at 1200, though in the summer months this swells considerably, as it plays host to the largest Irish music summer school in the world. The greater iBrickane area, which also incorporates Quilty, Mullagh and Spanish Point, has a permanent population of approximately 3000 people. The words music and culture have long been associated with the locality. But over 200 years ago, the area became a popular holiday destination thanks to its golden stretch of beach at Spanish Point and the beaches at Seafield and White Strand. Outdoor pursuits are well catered for locally with angling, surfing, swimming, boating, golfing, dolphin-watching, bird watching and pony trekking all available nearby.



Miltown Malbay is a 40 minutes drive from Ennis, the County town of Clare and a 60 minutes drive from Shannon International Airport. Hence, it has proved a popular location for business people wishing to work and live in a countryside setting. Today, the iBrickane area boasts almost 200 businesses including several information technology enabled businesses, which have established themselves locally over the last 10 years.

Branded the "Courtyard" or "Cuirt na dTonnta" (Courtyard of the waves) in Gaelic, the physical elements of the project are a small-integrated complex of workspace and residential accommodation, consisting of a combination of detached, three storey and semi-detached houses, with wired for broadband office space. The live-work accommodation is available for sale and targeted specifically at established micro-businesses within the traded services sector, e.g. graphic design, consultancy, web design, publishing and professional services. Up to 12 businesses can be accommodated in each E-Town location with the long term potential of generating significant employment and local added-value.



Walking around the development by Murray O’Laoire, Architects I was impressed at how well the E Village is integrated into the local community. The units echo the vernacular style of the area where houses on the exposed Atlantic coast are built solidly to withstand the elements and provide the essentials of shelter and warmth. Simplicity and authentic natural materials are emphasised with elevations of off white rough cast plaster under welsh blue slate roofs. Interest is added by use of natural timber planking and Nordic Pine window sections with sensible aluminium cill protectors to protect against the salt laden marine climate. For the same reason there are aluminium fascia and soffits. Inside, the planning is simple and intelligent with a high standard of finishes and plentiful sockets and good quality kitchens and bathrooms. The workspaces are finished to a shell and core specification and have accessible toilets and excellent natural lighting pointing to their attractiveness to artists, media and web specialists. The feeling is both of understated quality and solidity. The development is well integrated into Miltown Malbay so it will not be a incomers ghetto but a valued neighbour and part of the community.

The Secret behind the number 11



Well this is one of those Internet Theories which is partially but not wholly true - for instance there was no Flight: Q33 NY. So interesting but don't take it too seriously.

"Pretty Chilling - read to the bottom. Try it out.
If you are a sceptical person - still read on as it's actually very interesting!!
This is actually really freaky!! (Mainly the end part, but read it all first)

1) New York City has 11 letters
2) Afghanistan has 11 letters.
3) Ramsin Yuseb has 11 letters. (The terrorist who threatened to destroy the Twin Towers in 1993)
4) George W Bush has 11 letters.

This could be a mere coincidence, but this gets interesting:
1) New York is the 11th state.
2) The first plane crashing against the Twin Towers was flight number 11.
3) Flight 11 was carrying 92 passengers. 9 + 2 = 11
4) Flight 77 which also hit Twin Towers, was carrying 65 passengers. 6 + 5 = 11
5) The tragedy was on September 11, or 9/11 as it is now known. 9 + 1+ 1 =11
6) The date is equal to the US emergency services telephone number 911.


Sheer coincidence..?

Read on and make up your own mind:

1) The total number of victims inside all the hi-jacked planes was 254.
2 + 5 + 4 = 11
2) September 11 is day number 254 of the calendar year.
3) The Madrid bombing took place on 3/11/2004. 3 + 1 + 1 + 2 + 4 = 11.
4) The tragedy of Madrid happened 911 days after the Twin Towers incident.

Now this is where things get totally eerie:

The most recognized symbol for the US, after the Stars & Stripes, is the Eagle. The following verse is taken from the Koran, the Islamic holy book:




"For it is written that a son of Arabia would awaken a fearsome Eagle. The wrath of the Eagle would be felt throughout the lands of Allah while some of the people trembled in despair still more rejoiced: for the wrath of the Eagle cleansed the lands of Allah and there was peace."

That verse is number 9.11 of the Koran.


Unconvinced about all of this still ..?



Try this and see how you feel afterwards, it made my hair stand on end:


Please do the following:

1. Highlight the Q33 NY. This is the flight number of the first plane to hit one of the Twin Towers.
2. Change the font size to 48.
4. Change the actual font to WINGDINGS……………………

What do you think now????"

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

White House Press Secretary Spins Wife’s Tragic Death As A Positive


White House Press Secretary Spins Wife�s Tragic Death As A Positive

Only 265 Days left with Dubya in charge!!

Rejoice! Rejoice! Rejoice!

Monday, 28 April 2008

Cliffs of Moher



I am reinvigorated by a weekend in my favourite Irish County, County Clare on the Atlantic seaboard and seeing once again one the most evocative places in Ireland, the magnificent Cliffs of Moher and the wild Atlantic seascape which is at its most impressive on a stormy winter’s day rather than in the calm of summer. County Clare contains great variety within its boundaries. The Burren, a unique karst region, which contains rare flowers and fauna. At the western edge of The Burren, facing the Atlantic Ocean, are the Cliffs of Moher. The county's Southern border is the River Shannon, the longest river in Ireland. Along this estuary is the town of Shannon and Shannon International Airport which has a proud place in aviation history. This airport was the first airport to have a duty-free zone. Clare’s unique sense of place was noted by the English Poet Laureate, John Betjeman, who was a wartime press attaché (and probably a spy) at the British Embassy in Dublin:
>
Stony seaboard, far and foreign,
Stony hills poured over space,
Stony outcrop of the Burren,
Stones in every fertile place,
Little fields with boulders dotted,
………
Where a stone age people breeds,
The last of Europe’s stone age race.

Ireland with Emily.
Sir. John Betjeman

Clare’s sense of place derives not just from the landscape but also from the people because it has also preserved traditions of music and story telling which makes it a magnet for traditional music and folklore enthusiasts. And it does have much evidence of antiquity with a large number of old castles and abbeys, several ancient towers, and numerous raths (earthworks of ancient Irish chieftains) and cromlechs (circles of standing stones).


For native and visitor alike one of the most evocative places are the dramatic Cliffs of Moher where you definitely identify with what the locals say “The next parish is America!” The Cliffs are featured in the opening sequences of David Lean's film Ryan's Daughter (1970). The Cliffs (Gaelic: Aillte an Mhothair, lit. cliffs of the ruin, also known as the Cliffs of Mohair from the Irish: Mhothair) are located in the parish of Liscannor at the south-western edge of The Burren area near Doolin, which is located in County Clare, Republic of Ireland. They rise 120 meters (394 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag's Head, and reach their maximum height of 214 meters (702 ft) just north of O'Brien's Tower, eight kilometres away. The cliffs boast one of Ireland's most spectacular views. On a clear day the Aran Islands are visible in Galway Bay, as are the valleys and hills of Connemara. The Cliffs are amongst the most impressive places to see in Ireland, and are widely considered to be Ireland's top tourist attraction, drawing almost one million visitors in 2006.

Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience

They have been short on facilities in the past have been makeshift but this has now been remedied with the opening of an impressive interpretative centre buried into the landscape which is designed both to enhance a visit and provide the facilities needed to make the visit comfortable and satisfying. The site has been developed by Clare County Council and Shannon Heritage to allow visitors to experience the spectacular natural impression of the Cliffs, without the distraction of overly-imposing man-made amenities or features.


In keeping with this carefully-balanced approach, the "Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience" is built into a hillside approaching the Cliffs, blending naturally with the surrounding countryside. The centre is also environmentally sensitive in its use of renewable energy systems including geothermal heating and cooling, solar panels, and greywater recycling. Opened in February 2007 the €32m facility features an informative array of interactive media, exploring topics such as the origin of the Cliffs in local and global geological contexts, the bird and fish life in the area, and many more.

O'Briens Tower

The Cliffs of Moher are home to one of the major colonies of cliff nesting seabirds in Ireland. The area was designated as a Refuge for Fauna in 1988 and as a Special Protection Area for Birds (SPA) under the EU Birds Directive in 1989. Included within the designated site are the cliffs, the cliff-top maritime grassland and heath, and a 200 metre zone of open water, directly in front of the cliffs to protect part of the birds' feeding area. The designation covers 200 hectares and highlights the area's importance for wildlife. The cliffs consist mainly of beds of Namurian shale and sandstone, with the oldest rocks being found at the bottom of the cliffs. One can see 300 million year old river channels cutting through the base of the cliffs.

There are many animals living on the cliffs, most of them birds: 30,000 birds of 29 species. The most interesting are the famous Atlantic Puffins, which live in large colonies at isolated parts of the cliffs and on the small Goat Island. Also present are hawks, gulls, guillemots, shags, ravens and choughs. “Atlantic Edge” is the exciting interpretive centre at the Cliffs of Moher New Visitor Experience. Housed at the centre of the underground building a huge domed cave contains images, exhibits, displays & experiences that will delight young and old alike.

Cafe

Visitors enter via a viewing ramp which provides access for all to the central floor. This is organised into four principal themed areas exploring different elements of the Cliffs of Moher: OCEAN, ROCK, NATURE and MAN. A selection of interactive exhibits & displays shows aspects of these themes and their connection with the Cliffs. An aerial tour entitled “The Clare Journey” appears on a central screen and provides a wonderful birds eye tour od this fascinating county. The tour continues from the central dome via a winding tunnel that evokes the many caves of the area to a theatre housing a virtual reality cliff face adventure – “The Ledge”. A virtual reality cliff face adventure, THE LEDGE, is shown in the audiovisual theatre using IMAX style technology allowing visitors to experience life at the cliff face both above and below sea level, meeting a cast of characters from among the native bird and sea life.

The Edge

The Cliffs of Moher are dramatic and evocative but also speak to Irish people of the pain of emigration and the history of Ireland over the years as Clare is a county which experienced the extreme effects of the potato famine and depopulation and decline. Indeed the remains of whole “famine villages” which were depopulated en masse can still be seen. A part of the ashes of British pop singer Dusty Springfield (real name Mary O’Brien) were scattered at Cliffs of Moher in 1999 as an indication that this is a place important in the memory of the Irish Diaspora. The traditional ballad popularised by the Irish folk group Planxty evokes this unique sense of place;

You may travel far, far, from your own native home,
Far away o’er the mountains, far away o’er the foam,
But of all the fine places that I’ve ever been,
Oh, there’s none can compare with the Cliffs of Dooneen.

Take a view o’er the mountains, fine sights you’ll see there;
You’ll see high, rocky mountains on the west coast of Clare,
Oh, the towns of Kilkee and Kilrush can be seen,
From the high, rocky slopes ‘round the Cliffs of Dooneen.
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Sunset over the Cliffs

Planxty - Cliffs of Dooneen (2004)



THE CLIFFS OF DOONEEN
Irish, tradtional

You may travel far, far, from your own native home,
Far away o’er the mountains, far away o’er the foam,
But of all the fine places that I’ve ever been,
Oh, there’s none can compare with the Cliffs of Dooneen.

Take a view o’er the mountains, fine sights you’ll see there;
You’ll see high, rocky mountains on the west coast of Clare,
Oh, the towns of Kilkee and Kilrush can be seen,
From the high, rocky slopes ‘round the Cliffs of Dooneen.

It’s a nice place to be on a fine summer’s day,
Watching all the wild flowers that ne’er do decay,
Oh, the hare and the pheasant are plain to be seen,
Making homes for their young round the Cliffs of Dooneen.

So fare thee well to Dooneen, fare thee well for a while,
And although we are parted by the raging sea wild,
Once again I will wander with my fine Irish lad,
Round the high rocky slopes of the Cliff of Dooneen.

Thursday, 24 April 2008

Poverty and Barclays Bank.



Shed a tear for one of the more wretched victims of the credit crunch, Barclays Bank, which has shockingly reported profits of only £7bn for 2007, down 1% from a year ago.

Profits at Barclays fell in the first quarter of the year because of tough market conditions, chief executive John Varley has said. Profit in January and February was in line with last year but poor trading in March pulled profits lower, he said. Results at Barclays Capital and Barclays Global Investors were "well below" the strong profits of last year but were still profitable, he added. While the second half of 2007 was "as hard a six-month period as I can remember and conditions in some markets in 2008 have remained difficult", he said.

He pointed to lower interest rates, high employment and forecast world growth this year of between 3 and 4% as reasons to retain a "sense of perspective about banks". The bank would aim to generate an annual "economic profit" - above normal investment returns - of between £9.3bn and £10.6bn over the coming four-year period, he said.

This Chief Executive, John “Greed is Good” Varley, has followed in the footsteps of his avaricious predecessor Matt Barrett in being motivated by short term yields at the expense of its core banking by leading the bank, through Barclays' capital, into substantial exposure to sub-prime, collateralised debt obligations, monolines, loans to private equity, and all the toxic stuff that did for Royal Bank of Scotland.


John Varley, The Face of Poverty

Through all this neither he nor his predecessor have lost their unrelenting focus on fleecing their cash cow U.K. domestic customers, those boring people who are only good for loading with illegal penalty charges and cross selling “their exciting and competitive” personal finance products!

The previous Barclays chief executive, Matt Barrett, candidly criticised his own product, suggesting that the astute consumer would do well to steer clear of it.

Giving evidence to the Commons' Treasury select committee he said he did not use credit cards from his own subsidiary, Barclaycard, because it was simply too expensive. A secondary factor was, as he earned over £4 m a year, he probably didn’t need to! He also revealed that he advised his four offspring to have nothing to do with credit cards either. "I do not borrow on credit cards. I have four young children. I give them advice not to pile up debts on their credit cards." Since 1992 Barclaycard (“Britain’s most recognised consumer brand.”) increased its interest rate to 17.9% even though interest rates had fallen by 2/3 rd over the same period. Then in the past year it has increased its "normal" rate to 22.9%, its cash withdrawal rate to 26.9% and changed its terms and conditions so you pay off the cheaper debt first, as you do! Years ago engaging in such usury was condemned from the pulpit and the perpetrators were obliged to have a sign with three balls over their shop to warn people about their real business before they walked through the door.



Recently, I have had the privilege, with millions of other fortunate consumers, of receiving two “specially selected” offers through my letter box. One “invited” me to borrow on an unsecured loan at “only” 12.9% and this offer was so “special” that “for my peace of mind” the interest rate would be fixed for the term of the loan. Incredible generosity I hear you say as one but greater kindness was to follow. The next personalised mail shot told me that as I was a “valued customer” I could borrow £15,000 secured on my home for only 8.9% and as a “strictly time limited offer” they would waive their “normal” administration fee of £950. Such generosity has made me feel “special” and “valued” indeed and made me wonder if this is what the “responsible” lenders are doing what are the dodgy back street sharks up to? Of course the back street crew are not receiving a £50 Bn. and counting, bailout from us, the taxpayers; to swap their spivvy mortgage backed SIV’s for Government backed Gilts. No doubt, future capital and dividend growth at U.K. Banks will be shared with us poor taxpayers who have taken so much of their risk away from their shareholders. Whilst bailing out the Banks with our money perhaps that impressive duo, Gordon Brown and the Deputy Chancellor, Alistair Darling, could explain how Teacher's and Nurse's salaries contribute to inflation but bank charges, petrol duty, Green taxes which don't help the environment, conspicuous consumption by the untaxed Non. Doms. and above inflation, Rail Fares, Car Taxes, utility charges and Council Taxes don't? I always find Gordon's and his Deputy's lectures on economics such good value.

But for now, John “Greed is Good” Varley, I do feel for the threat to your lugubrious life style and red braces but I won’t be intruding on your private grief and taking up your wonderful “special” offers. I just wouldn't feel right taking such unfair advantage of your kindness at this difficult time.

Home Depot Honors Fallen Soldier By Giving His Mom Free Power Drill


Home Depot Honors Fallen Soldier By Giving His Mom Free Power Drill

America cares for its Fallen Heroes.

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

Tighten your Belts!


Headquarters of Deutsche Bank AG in Frankfurt am Main
We have all read about the instability in financial markets and the effect of the crisis in global liquidity on financial institutions and individuals. But it is the heart rending human interest stories which really bring it home; the repossessed homes, negative equity, declining home prices and in a report in the papers on April 23 2008 the truly tragic story that Deutsche Bank employees, who number 78,000 workers worldwide, have received a stiff no-naughtiness-on-the-firm's-plastic missive.

Deutsche Bank, Germany's largest, has been hit by the global credit crunch so badly that it has issued a memorandum to senior executives telling them that brothel visits and adult channels in hotel rooms cannot be claimed on expenses.

"Deutsche Bank does not approve of any adult entertainments, and such expenditures will not be reimbursed," said a memo that was leaked to the news magazine Spiegel. The memo further warns that the bank's credit cards must not be used for such purposes.

Nein! Nein! Nein!
Whether the edict was prompted by a recent upsurge in executives seeking relief from Deutsche Bank's sub-prime horrors – more than £2bn in write-down so far – via Germany's vast network of pleasure houses is unclear. Further belt-tightening at the bank includes the instruction that bosses must approve taxi journeys in advance, business meals must not exceed £50 per person, and train rides inside Germany must be second-class if they take less than one hour.


Oompah Verboten!

One further stipulation: employees on overnight flights who are expected to go to work or attend meetings on arrival must now shower at the airport instead of booking a hotel. Apparently, there have been "minor infringements" of late that the bank wants to stamp out.

A Deutsche Bank insider said: "In the good old days, you could pass off a trip to a knocking-shop as a restaurant if the name wasn't too obvious. But we're in an uptight, locked-down new Puritanism now, not helped by sub-prime or VW."

At Volkswagen, people have been jailed and fined tens of thousands of pounds after a secret plan was discovered whereby union bosses were to be paid off with prostitutes, sex parties and drugs in exchange for an agreement on downsizing.

Truly, in these trying times Deutsche Bank will not be alone in trying to squeeze corporate overheads!

Monday, 21 April 2008

Free London!


Bendy the Free Bus

The Bendy Buses in London have sparked heated debates. These are the 18 meter (60 feet) long articulated buses which have replaced the older double deckers on many routes. There are two arguments in their favour; a greater passenger capacity as they can carry 149 as opposed to 79 on traditional double deck buses so they can offer greater capacity on routes in the central area, particularly at peak periods, and they are easier for access having level floors and low thresholds. I have an open mind on Bendy Buses in London as they answer the real problem of making buses available to people with mobility impairments. These are 10% of the general population but are probably a higher proportion of Central London bus users due to the implausibility of using and parking cars in Central London and the restricted access on the Underground. However there is a general consensus emerging that with three sets of doors and (like all London buses) no cash fares a lot of people ride for free.

Figures recently released under the Freedom of Information Act and reported in the media in mid-March 2008 show bus fare evasion costs London more than £50 million a year. The figures show a rise of more than £5 million from the previous year and have almost doubled since 2005/2006. The problem is worst on bendy buses, where an estimated one in 10 passengers do not pay, costing £6.4 million this financial year. On other buses, 3.4 per cent do not pay, costing Transport for London £45.9 million a year.


Imagine my surprise then today getting on the No. 18 bus at Euston towards Baker Street and Sudbury Town. Some suggest that there are a lot of empty bus seats going around London but this was one crowded bus with passengers standing and passengers with push chairs and luggage so not much room to move around. Both Oyster ticket readers on the rear section of the bus were out of order so cards could not be read which meant everybody on that section (even those who wanted to pay) was in fact travelling for free. Was there a stream of passengers going through the connecting turntable to the front two doors to use the ticket readers there? Well, on a crowded bus, surprisingly no! But even if they had done so they would have found that these two readers were also out of action. So on this crowded bus full to capacity the only fare income was the people who got on by the front door and used the ticket reader by the driver’s position, as 4 out of the 5 ticket readers on this bus were out of action meaning most people were enjoying this scenic tour of the beautiful Euston Road for free.

So on behalf of the “Free London Campaign” take a bow route No. 18, the operator FirstBus and the star of this piece; Bendy Bus EA11026. Tourists and Natives alike applaud your generosity!

Sunday, 20 April 2008

Buon' Amici


Buon’ Amici

Buon’ Amici is Italian for “Good Friends” and certainly every time you go into this friendly coffee bar in Kingsbury, Aylesbury, that is the way you feel. It always has a large contingent of regulars including the local Italian community, normally discussing football. In an arc stretching from Bedford through Leighton Buzzard to Aylesbury you’ll find a strong Italian community and the artisan businesses such as coffee shops, bakeries, hairdressers and restaurants utilising the skills they brought from their homeland. One of the reasons they settled in this area was after the Second World War Italy was devastated and had huge unemployment whilst Britain had a manpower shortage as it set about rebuilding. Italians were allowed to come over to work in the Brickworks, cement plants and sandpits which were north of the Chiltern escarpment. Conditions were harsh in dangerous and backbreaking conditions by today’s standards; only young Italian males could be employed, they had to live in camps for three years before they were allowed bring their wives and children into the country and their movements were restricted as “controlled aliens.” As they left the camps and set up home they integrated well into the local communities whilst keeping their Italian connections. Aylesbury in the 1950’s had much manufacturing with food processing, printing and engineering.


Franco & Mama Lucia

Buon’ Amici is a welcome family business in a town which could be entered for the “Clonetown Britain” awards. The owner and barista who produces Aylesbury’s best coffees is my good buddy Franco Masella ably assisted in the cucina by Da Mama, Lucia. The Masella family ran the well regarded Italian Eatery “Pepes” in Tring for many years so Mama’s Pannini’s, Ciabatta’s, sandwiches and Pizza are made fresh with proper ingredients and her Lasagne al Forno has the authentic filling of beef and pork mince. The pastry cabinet normally has a display of Italian pastries from the bakery and the Mama’s lemon drizzle sponge is a big hit! It could have been so different. Franco had a successful coffee stall in the Hale Leys Centre in Aylesbury and the property company gave notice to end his lease as they decided they wanted to get a chain in as a “better covenant” and to increase the “food offer” to extend the shopper “dwell time” in the centre. There was outrage locally as Franco’s stall was particularly appreciated by disabled customers who enjoyed the easy access. Franco met with the surveyor for the property company as there was a campaign and petition by the local paper, The Bucks Herald, to stop him closing. To no avail, when they met with the wide boy surveyor, he told him he wasn’t interested in “whinging disabled people” and he had already done a “deal” for the unit. Today Franco’s pitch is held by a chain called BB’s which also has an outlet in the other shopping centre in Aylesbury and no less than six units in Hale Leys are empty. In the past two years many of the family owned businesses in Central Aylesbury have closed down squeezed between the Supermarkets and Retail Parks and avaricious landlords increasing rents by reference to “comparables” paid by the space bandits which is probably why both Hale Leys and Central Aylesbury have so many vacant shops.


Kingsbury, Aylesbury

After almost two years in temporary accommodation in a local bar Franco and his family got a shop between the Market Square and a newly pedestrianised “café quarter” of Kingsbury which was renovated at a cost of £2 m by the local council. It is a good pitch and his local customers in the Town Centre have returned including the disabled customers. I should explain that due to the wonderful Spinal Injuries unit at Stoke Mandeville Hospital we probably have a high proportion of disabled people locally as many have settled in the area because of the facilities. These are not just medical as at Stoke Mandeville we also have the Guttmann Sports Centre, the home of the Stoke Mandeville Games which lead to the Special Olympics; locally we are proud of the role Stoke Mandeville played in changing both the reality and perception of disability and are very protective of the mobility impaired people who live here. Franco’s always seems to have a good mix of customers who appreciate the hospitality that only a family business can offer, not forgetting proper coffee. Truly, it is a gathering place for “good friends.” As the sign over the door says; Buon’ Amici, La Passione Del Caffe!

Friday, 18 April 2008

The Terminal 5 Song



Terminal 5 is the success Daithai C predicted!!

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/04/up-up-and-away-with-baa-no-2.html

This great video and song plays better tribute to this Great British World Beater than my words can!

Up, up and away with BAA & BA !!!!

Wednesday, 16 April 2008

A Day in Oxford.


Radcliffe Camera


Christchurch Dining Hall

18 Miles from Castle Caldwell lays the city of the "Dreaming Spires", the historic University City of Oxford. For all its attractions it can be a difficult city for the first time visitor to find their way around and see the parts which capture the athmosphere and sense of purpose of this ancient seat of learning. What visitors find here is not a single University campus but a jumble of colleges, libraries, museums, fine shops and other buildings. Added to this, Oxford City Council actively tries to preserve the character of the historic centre by discouraging cars and through traffic and encouraging walking, cycling and public transport. Car restrictions are rigorously enforced, including by remote cameras, so if not arriving by train or coach it is best to use the “Park and Ride” facilities on the outskirts of Oxford or the car parks on the edge of the centre. So this ROT (Reduced Oxford Tour) is in the traditions of our RLT (Reduced London Tour http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/09/day-in-london.html) and its aim is to show you the real Oxford as cheaply as possible and keep you out of overpriced and tacky tourist attractions. But, before the ROT, some history to put it all into context.



"The Dreaming Spires"



Oxford, is famous the world over for its University and place in history. For over 800 years, it has been a home to royalty and scholars, and since the 9th century an established town, although people are known to have lived in the area for thousands of years. Nowadays, the city is a bustling cosmopolitan town, still with its ancient University, but home also to a growing hi-tech community. Many businesses are located in and around the town, whether on one of the Science and Business Parks or within one of a number of residential areas.

The origins of Oxford are not actually known with any certainty, being as they are, shrouded in the mists of time, but various ideas have been submitted (and disputed) regarding its genealogy. Medieval historian, John Rous wrote in his 1490 work, “Historium Regum Angliae”, that Oxford was originally King Mempricius' city, Caer-Memre, built on the River Thames somewhere between 1400 and 1500 BC. However, other historians from Rous' time were more inclined to support the popular legend that Oxford was in fact founded by the Trojans, after they landed on British soil in around 1100 BC.


View towards Magdalen

Although the town of Oxford itself supported the Parliamentary cause in the English Civil War, the powerful University was staunchly Royalist and, as a result, the city served as a home base for King Charles during the period. Specifically, the University housed King Charles at Christ Church College between 1642 and 1646, while Queen Henrietta Maria stayed at Merton.

Firmly established as an academic centre by the 13th century, Oxford was drawing students from across Europe for studies focused on houses established by the Dominicans (1221), Franciscans (1224), Carmelites (1256), and Augustinians (1267). History records a rocky relationship between the city of Oxford and the University of Oxford. Resentment towards the University on the city's part stemming, not least, from the scholars' legal precedence over the town. Until the 20th century the Chancellor of the University had the legal right to trial over townsfolk, and it was only in 1974 that the university lost the right to place its own representatives on the Oxford City Council. In fact, the 'Town and Gown' of Oxford have experienced a rather violent past with one of the most infamous outbreaks of rioting happening on St. Scholastrica's Day (February 10) in 1354.


Christchurch Cloisters


Merton Lane

Oxford is the oldest university in the English-speaking world and lays claim to nine centuries of continuous existence. As an internationally renowned centre for teaching and research, Oxford attracts students and scholars from across the globe, with almost a quarter of the students from overseas. More than 130 nationalities are represented among a student population of over 18,000. Oxford is a collegiate university, with 39 self-governing colleges related to the University in a type of federal system. There are also seven Permanent Private Halls, founded by different Christian denominations. Thirty colleges and all halls admit students for both undergraduate and graduate degrees. Seven other colleges are for graduates only; one has Fellows only, and one specializes in part-time and continuing education.


Oxford; Colleges & Halls

The early seats of learning were monastic foundations and it is this monastic model which is so effectively reflected in the layout and operations of the colleges today which have cloisters, a chapel and a dining hall and college gardens or water meadows by the Thames (called the Isis where it flows through Oxford) or the Cherwell. What is also confusing for visitors is that the colleges don’t look like campuses elsewhere. In Oxford or Cambridge the teaching method is not the same as at other universities with few lecture halls. Rather students are taught in small tutorial groups or one to one by tutors in their rooms. Also students can attend tutorials or use facilities at several colleges not just their own. It is the uniqueness of this teaching method, the size and tradition of the academic community, the great resources and facilities available which makes an education at Oxford (and Cambridge) so special and so prized in the academic world. So now let us embark on the ROT!

For the ROT I’m going to restrict your tour to a large and small college, Magdalen and Brasenose and the centre of the University area but you could just as well take other colleges (Christchurch and Balliol) and do a similar tour. To do this tour if you are travelling by car you come into Oxford on the A420 which leads to the M40 Motorway and London. Park in the Park & Ride on the outskirts or before coming to Magdalen Bridge and its roundabout, park in the Council “pay and display” car park signposted on the right. Now take a gentle stroll towards the centre across the Cherwell on Magdalen Bridge into High Street. Ahead of you on the right you will see the tower and buildings of Magdalen College, on the left the Oxford Botanic Gardens and as you cross over the Cherwell you will see a boathouse with punts for hire.




Punts on the Cherwell

Magdalen College (pronounced 'Maudlin') has a reputation as one of Oxford's most beautiful colleges, and rightly so. The famous Great Tower (by William Reynolds) stands sentinel beside Magdalen Bridge and inside the college you will find peaceful cloister gardens, riverside walks and a deer park where a herd of fallow deer has been kept for over 300 years. Each year on 1st May, Magdalen is the scene of the beginning of Oxford's traditional May Morning celebrations. Crowds gather on Magdalen Bridge to welcome in the spring and, at 6am sharp, Magdalen Choristers sing madrigals to the hushed crowds below.


Magdalen Tower

Make sure to go into the College (An admission fee is payable) and follow the guide to see the chapel, dining hall, cloisters and the delightful deerpark and gardens at the back of the college. There is also a pleasant well run snack bar (called a Buttery in Oxford) by the river where you can watch the punts go by. The River Cherwell reaches the northern outskirts of Oxford and runs south on the eastern edge of north Oxford town centre. Near Summertown it passes the Victoria Arms (or "Vicky Arms"), a popular riverside pub at Marston and then under a modern bridge that is part of Marston Ferry Road. A little further south, the Cherwell passes Wolfson College (a graduate college of Oxford University), the Cherwell Boathouse (where punts can be hired) and the playing fields of the Dragon School. Next is Lady Margaret Hall, one of the previously all-women's Oxford colleges.


Magdalen College Chapel


Magdalen Cloisters

The river is then flanked by University Parks and passes under Rainbow Bridge. Parson's Pleasure and Dame's Delight used to provide nude bathing facilities for male and female bathers respectively, but both are now defunct. Below the Parks, the river splits into up to three streams, with a series of islands. One is Mesopotamia, which is a long thin island just south of the Parks with a path that provides a pleasant walk. At the northern end, there are punt rollers next to a weir. St Catherine's College is on the largest island formed by the split of the river. It also flows past Magdalen College.


Punting on the Cherwell

The river conjoins again into two streams close together to flow under Magdalen Bridge. The river splits again past the bridge. To the west is the Oxford Botanic Garden. The river then skirts Christ Church Meadow before flowing into the River Thames (or Isis) through two branches. On the island in between these branches are many of the college boathouses for rowing on the Thames. In summer, punting is very popular on the Oxford stretch of the Cherwell. (A punt is a long flat bottom boat which is propelled by means of a pole pushed against the river bed.) Punts are typically hired from a punt station by Magdalen Bridge or the Cherwell Boathouse (just to the north of the University Parks). It is possible to punt all the way from the Isis, north past the University Parks, and out beyond the ring road.

After Magdalen continue up the High Street and turn right through a pedestrian lane into Radcliffe Square. Radcliffe Square lies at the very heart of the old University. The round building in the centre is the Radcliffe Camera which was funded from the estate of the Royal Surgeon Dr John Radcliffe. The building was designed by James Gibbs and was completed in 1749. Originally conceived as a library of science and medicine, it is now part of the Bodleian Library and houses a collection on History and English Literature.

One of the best views of Oxford, All Souls and the Radcliffe Camera in particular, can be obtained from the top of the University Church of St Mary's spire. The University Church has been in existence since the late 13th century. In the early days of the University, the Church was a centre of administration and teaching, with the side chapels acting as lecture theatres where students studied mainly Theology. In 1556, it hosted the trial of the protestant Bishops Ridley, Cranmer and Latimer. The “Oxford Martyrs” where subsequently burnt at the stake for heresy by the Catholic Queen of England, Mary Tudor known to history as Bloody Mary. The Church is open every day and visitors can climb up the 127 stairs to the top of the spire to get another classic aerial view of Radcliffe Square and the spires of Oxford. Entrance to the church and spire is via Radcliffe Square. Surprisingly, Oxford is not well endowed with good restaurants but there is an excellent and good value Café in the cellar of St. Mary’s Church which uses organic local produce and has good loos. From the top of St Mary’s looking out over Radcliffe Square you have All Souls College on your right and the next one we are going to visit Brasenose on your left.


St. Mary the Virgin

The College of All Souls of the Faithful Departed, of Oxford, was founded by Henry VI and Henry Chichele (fellow of New College and Archbishop of Canterbury), on 20 May 1438. The Statutes provided for the Warden and forty fellows - all to take Holy Orders; twenty-four to study arts, philosophy and theology; and sixteen to study civil or canon law. Today the College is primarily an academic research institution at the University of Oxford, having strong ties to the public domain. Traditionally, there are no undergraduate members.


All Souls from St. Mary's

When you come down from St. Mary’s go to your left into one of the smaller colleges, Brasenose. The name of the College has always fascinated visitors to Oxford, and there have been several interpretations of it. The most likely is that it refers to a “brazen” (brass or bronze) door knocker in the shape of a nose. In the 1330s there was a migration of rebellious students from Oxford to Stamford in Lincolnshire, and one of the ringleaders was from Brasenose Hall. In due course the rebellion was suppressed, the king ordering the students to return to Oxford. In 1890 a house in Stamford was offered for sale; it was called “Brasenose”, and had an ancient door knocker, dated to the twelfth century. Brasenose College purchased the house for the sake of that door knocker, which was brought to Oxford and now hangs over the high table in Brasenose Hall. The College historians of the 1890s were convinced that the fourteenth century students of Brasenose Hall took the knocker from which they derived their name to Stamford, and that it had been restored to its rightful home at last.


Brasenose

Noses have been used as symbols for Brasenose College throughout its history. More than one has been placed over the main door and they can be found in the glass in Hall. The Archives have a carved nose once attached to the College Eight, a nose tie pin of the 1870s, and one of the nose pipes sold by a local tobacconist and smoked by Brasenose undergraduates in the years before the First World War. For a small college it has had many famous graduates ranging from Archbishops of Canterbury to Michael Palin. Leaving Brasenose turn left past the Radcliffe Camera towards Broad Street and you will come to the Bodleian Library and Sheldonian Theatre and pass the Bridge of Sighs.


Bodleian Library

The Bodleian Library is the main research library of the University of Oxford. It is also a copyright deposit library and its collections are used by scholars from around the world. The buildings within the central site include Duke Humfrey's Library above the Divinity School, the Old Schools Quadrangle with its Great Gate and Tower, the Radcliffe Camera, Britain’s first circular library, and the Clarendon Building. In addition, the Bodleian consists of nine other libraries, in separate locations in Oxford: the Bodleian Japanese Library, the Bodleian Law Library, the Hooke Library, the Indian Institute Library, the Oriental Institute Library, the Philosophy Library, the Radcliffe Science Library, the Bodleian Library of Commonwealth and African Studies at Rhodes House and the Vere Harmsworth Library.

On your right you will see The Bridge of Sighs which joins the two sections of Hertford College located on either side of New College Lane. Modeled on the famous Ponte dei Sospiri in Venice, it has become one of Oxford's most photographed buildings and is well known from “Inspector Morse” and other programmes and films. But its construction was vehemently opposed when it was built in 1913, not least by the Fellows of New College who thought it would spoil the views of their college from the Sheldonian Theatre. The original bridge in Venice gets its name from the sighs of the prisoners being led to their execution.


The Bridge of Sighs

The Sheldonian Theatre is the centre for University ceremonials and another creation of Sir Christopher Wren. This is well worth a visit, not just to see the Vice Chancellor's elaborately carved throne and painted ceiling, but also to take in the spectacular aerial views of Oxford's spires and domes from the rooftop cupola. The Broad Street entrance to the Sheldonian Theatre is notable because of the carved heads, or terms, that tower above the railings. Often referred to as the twelve Caesars or Apostles, they are actually anonymous but, nonetheless, curiously photogenic!


Sheldonian Theatre


Ashmolean Museum

Now walk past the Sheldonian and Blackwell’s famous University bookshop on Broad Street and turn right into St Giles at the top where it meets Cornmarket. Here you will see the Monument of the English Martyrs in St Giles. This is near the spot where the Protestant Bishops Latimer, Ridley and Cranmer (the Oxford Martyrs) were burned at the stake in 1555 and 1556 by Catholic Queen Mary. Head up St. Giles for 200 metres past the Randolph Hotel and the Ashmolean Museum on your left and Balliol and Keble Colleges on your right until on your left past St. Cross College you will come to your final destination with the promise of a traditional Morrel’s ale in the back room of the pub everybody in Oxford knows as the Bird and Baby but which the sign over the door actually calls the “Eagle and Child”!


JRR Tolkien

CS Lewis

Charles Williams
This building dates from the sixteenth century and is Grade II listed. It is popularly known as the “Bird & the Baby”, and has been a pub since 1650. Wellington Place runs along the north side of the building, and Eagle & Child Passage runs through the pub itself on the south side. From the 1930s to the 1960s the Inklings (including C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien) met in the “Rabbit Room” at the back of this pub. The Inklings were a gathering of friends -- all of them British, male, and Christian, most of them teachers at or otherwise affiliated with Oxford University, many of them creative writers and lovers of imaginative literature -- who met usually on Thursday evenings in C.S. Lewis's and J.R.R. Tolkien's college rooms in Oxford during the 1930s and 1940s for readings and criticism of their own work, and for general conversation. "Properly speaking," wrote W.H. Lewis, one of their number, the Inklings "was neither a club nor a literary society, though it partook of the nature of both. There were no rules, officers, agendas, or formal elections."


An overlapping group gathered on Tuesday (later Monday) mornings in various Oxford pubs, usually but not always the Eagle and Child, better known as the Bird and Baby, between the 1940s and 1963. These were not strictly Inklings meetings, and contrary to popular legend the Inklings did not read their manuscripts in the pub. What they have left behind are some of the most enduring works of 20th Century English literature including The Hobbit, The Lord of the Rings, The Silmarillion, The Chronicles of Narnia, War in Heaven, Many Dimensions, and Descent into Hell and Mere Christianity.


Inklings Snug - the “Rabbit Room”


Bird and Baby

To get an idea of the Oxford of the ‘50s and the world of the “Inklings”, watch the excellent movie “Shadowlands” where Anthony Hopkins plays C.S. Lewis. But also make sure you have a drink in the back room surrounded by their memorabilia and photos. For you have earned your drink having completed the ROT in such good style! If you are staying longer in Oxford there is much more to see; many more wonderful colleges, numerous museums and art galleries including the Ashmolean, Oxford and Pitts Rivers museums, excellent shopping, the covered market, the Oxford Canal and the riverside and water meadow walks and the rich theatrical, musical and cultural life of the town in the evenings. But whether you are staying or moving on I hope you will feel that the ROT has given you an insight into a town of dreaming spires and magnificent warm sandstone buildings which is rather special and rather wonderful.

Location: Oxfordshire, England


Oxford Canal

Monday, 14 April 2008

Anonymous Philanthropist Donates 200 Human Kidneys To Hospital


Anonymous Philanthropist Donates 200 Human Kidneys To Hospital

I apologise, it's just that I'm sentimental about kidneys as I'm down to my last two!

Sunday, 13 April 2008

Eltham Palace


Dry Moat and Bridge


Entrance Bridge over moat

In what is now the London suburb of Eltham in the Royal Borough of Greenwich there is a surprising juxtaposition of an ancient royal palace and a modern Art Deco home. Along and near the River Thames in South East London the Tudors had three great palaces, all capable of accommodating a typical court of 800 people, Greenwich, Eltham and Nonesuch. Eltham Palace was a popular winter home for the royals from 1305 until 1526 with the court often spending Christmas there and foreign dignitaries coming into the channel ports being received there. Only the Great Hall, completed in the reign of Edward IV in 1482, survives.





The mix of medieval and modern design features is also typical of the whole site. The eclecticism confronting the visitor can be explained, in part, by considering the history of the Palace. The moat gives a clue to the age of the site. Odo, Bishop of Bayeux and half-brother of William the Conqueror is listed in the Domesday Book as owning the original manor of Eltham in 1086. In 1295 the manor was acquired by Anthony Bek, Bishop of Durham, also a soldier and statesman. He built the wall around the moat and a timber bridge, probably where the North Stone Bridge is today and established a park south of the moat. In 1305, Bek presented the manor to the Prince of Wales, the future Edward II, who had often stayed there.

In the centuries that followed, Eltham became the residence of a succession of monarchs including Edward IV, who built the Great Hall – that medieval-looking building – in the 1470’s. Charles I (1600 – 1649) was the last monarch to visit the Palace and by the eighteenth century, it was in a state of disrepair. Instead of putting visitors off, the ruinous state of the Palace actually attracted the attention of artists like Thomas Girtin and James WM Turner, whose watercolours of the Palace were considered to be ‘picturesque’. In the nineteenth century much of the Palace was restored when it became a ‘gentleman’s residence’. Towards the end of the century the Board of Works continued this restoration.


Great Hall

In 1933 Stephen Courtauld - millionaire, war veteran and patron of the arts - looked to the suburb of Eltham as the setting for a breathtaking new home. His vision was to link a modern, fashionable residence to the Great Hall of a medieval royal palace and to create a stunning home where his Italian wife could entertain with gaiety and flair. They employed architects John Seely (1899–1963) and Paul Paget (1901–1985) and fashionable Mayfair interior designer the Marchese Peter Malacrida (1889–1980) to design a new private house in the Art Deco style to adjoin the existing Palace building, which was extensively restored. Malacrida also designed the interiors of the Courtauld's luxury yacht, Virginia (launched in 1930 at Dalmuir on the Upper Clyde in Scotland). When Virginia was launched a contemporary commentator made the point eloquently: "Few will deny that the steam yachts built before the war had a more graceful and pleasing appearance than many of the motor yachts that have been designed during the last decade. But the M. Y. Virginia, with her clipper bow, her long overhanging stern, her raking masts and funnel and her topgallant focs'le, fully upholds the traditions of steam yacht design for beautiful vessels. The features named, however will cause no surprise when it is known that this 712-ton yacht was designed by G. L. Watson & Co…."


Yacht Virginia

Virginia was built at the Dalmuir yard of William Beardmore & Co. on the upper Clyde and launched in June 1930. The use of diesel engines and certain other design features such as the full beam deck house forward on the main deck allowed the designers to include significantly more interior volume than had been possible on previous yachts of this style. For the interior decoration the Courtaulds turned to the Marchese Malacrida who would later be responsible for many of the interiors at Eltham Palace. Unlike the exterior profile the interior was as cutting edge as their home ashore. They used their yacht extensively sailing on long cruises to the Greek Islands and the Baltic and stationing her in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) they sailed the South China Seas where Stephen Courtauld added to his famous orchid collection. She was requisitioned by the navy in 1940.

Stephen Courtauld was so rich and that he never had to work. He trained as a brewer but inherited shares from his family’s artificial silk empire, manufacturing rayon to maximise his material gains. At the beginnning of the First World War he joined the Artists’ Rifles and was awarded the Military Cross. After the war he resumed one of his great passions, mountaineering.


Stephen & Ginnie Courtauld

In 1919 he completed the ascent of the Innominata face of Mont Blanc. In the same year he met Virginia 'Ginie’ Peirano at Courmayeur in the Italian Alps. They seemed an unlikely couple – Stephen was so typically British and reserved his friends accepted 'would not use two words if one would do’. Ginie, by contrast, was a vivacious, divorced marchioness and a descendent of Vlad the Impaler. She paraded the ultimate in chic and sported a large tattoo of a snake above her ankle. The couple became part of London’s Mayfair set, living at Home House in Portman Square (a Robert Adam’s showpiece but now a private club – it is open to the public by appointment) and later at 47 Grosvenor Square.





The couple established themselves as great philanthropists, putting their money behind Ealing Studios, The Royal Opera House and The British School of Rome. When the lease ran out at No 47, the Courtaulds sought a semi-rural property within Rolls Royce reach of the West End.

Eltham, then in Kent, fitted the bill and the couple hired architects Seely and Paget to restore the medieval Great Hall and build an adjoining property that would be large enough for them to entertain guests and house their extensive collections of art and furniture. During the three years’ building work Stephen and Ginie went cruising around Europe in their yacht Virginia, seeking ideas for the ultimate modern home. They moved in on March 25, 1936. It seemed they had everything.




Great Hall

Combining Art Deco and ocean liner style, Eltham Palace is a stunning masterpiece of twentieth-century design next to the remains of a medieval royal palace which was originally Henry VIII’s boyhood home. Art Deco flourished through the 20s & 30s popularised by the Paris Exhibition of 1925 and was applied to all forms including architecture. Influences included Cubism (with zigzags & geometricals), Ancient Egypt (following the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun by Howard Carter & Lord Carnaervon in 1922) and Aztec & Mayan art (from South America & Mexico). It was a machine age style which utilised the innovations of the times such as plastics, chrome & aluminium. At a time of economic depression and the approach of war there was a desire for escapism. People enjoyed the pleasures of life during the 'Jazz Age'. Speed and streamlining became important especially in the new modes of travel such as the first commercial flights, trains such as the Orient Express and ocean-going liners. Stephen Courtauld with his yacht echoed the ocean liner feel in much of the interiors at Eltham, no more so entrance hall by Ralph Engstromer which is flooded with light by a concrete glass domed roof. The design influences are represented on a marquetry panel by the Swedish artist Jerk Werkmaster showing a Roman and Viking soldier against background scenes from Scandanavia and Italy.


Reception Hall

The dining room features pink leather upholstered chairs and black-and-silver doors, portraying animals and birds from London Zoo. Completed in 1936, the exterior of the house was built in sympathy with the older building, using a red brick design inspired by Hampton Court Palace. But the interior was (and remains) a showpiece of glamorous 1930s design. The house incorporated the latest technology such as concealed electric lighting, centralised vacuum cleaning, its own phone system and a loudspeaker system that allowed music to waft around the house.



Dining Room

Even more exotic than the dining room is Virginia Courtauld's vaulted bathroom, lined with onyx and gold mosaic, complete with gold-plated bath taps and a statue of the goddess Psyche.


Virginia Courtauld's bathroom

Luxury also emanates from the centrally heated sleeping quarters of the Courtaulds' pet ring-tailed lemur, Mah-Jongg. Stephen and Virginia had bought the animal at Harrods in 1923. Their beloved pet lived and travelled with them until its death at Eltham in 1938; the Courtauld's commissioned a memorial for the lemur. It was initially erected in the grounds at Eltham, but it is now at La Rochelle, the Courtaulds' last home in Zimbabwe. Mah-Jongg sleeping quarters at Eltham Palace were centrally heated. The walls were originally decorated with bamboo forest scenes by Miss G.E. Whinfield. A bamboo ladder enabled Mah-Jongg to descend to the ground-floor Flower Room.


Mah-Jongg in his palace within The Palace

Stephen Courtauld was a director of the famous Ealing Film Studio. Visitors can also enjoy an original 10-minute Courtauld home movie, restored using the latest technology. It gives an intimate glimpse of the millionaire's family swimming, admiring their gardens, and relaxing with their lemur and other pets.

As you leave the opulent 1930s house and enter the medieval palace, the interior presents a striking contrast. The Great Hall was built for Edward IV in the 1470s, and Henry VIII spent much of his childhood here.

The 19 acres of beautiful gardens surrounding the palace include both 20th-century and medieval elements. These include a rock garden sloping down to the moat, a medieval bridge, herbaceous borders inspired by modern designer Isabelle Van Groeningen, a sunken rose garden and plenty of picnic areas. The garden is special at any time of year, but highlights are the spring bulbs display and the wisteria cascading over the classical pergola in summer. The setting within a moat and with the footings of the ancient palace around provides plentiful visual interest and sightlines.


Moat and Bridge


Sir Stephen Lewis Courtauld, MC, (1883–1967) was a member of the wealthy English Courtauld textile family (he was the youngest brother of Samuel Courtauld, founder of the Courtauld Institute of Art). He did not enter the family business but his wealthy background enabled him to travel extensively and to pursue cultural and philanthropic interests — most notably, the redevelopment during the 1930s of Eltham Palace in Eltham, south-east London. Serving in the Artists’ Rifles during World War I, Courtauld won the Military Cross in 1918. After the war, in 1919, as an enthusiastic mountaineer, he completed the first ascent of the Innominata face of Mont Blanc in the French Alps. The same year, Stephen met Virginia Peirano at Courmayeur. She was the daughter of an Italian father and Hungarian mother. Virginia "Ginie" was a divorced marchesa by her previous marriage to an Italian aristocrat. Stephen and Ginie married in 1923. The unlikely couple - she was vivacious, impulsive and chic, he was cautious and reserved - had no children. From 1926 on, the looked after two nephews of Ginie's: Peter (*1916) and Paul Peirano (*1918).

Courtauld was financial director of Ealing Studios, a trustee of the Royal Opera House in London's Covent Garden, and provided financial support for the Courtauld Galleries in Cambridge’s Fitzwilliam Museum.



During the Battle of Britain, more than 100 bombs fell on the grounds and four on the Great Hall. The danger of being so close to London became too much for Ginie, who was also mourning the death of her nephew Paul Peirano. The Courtaulds moved to Scotland in 1945. It was the end of a dream, an end of an era. London society had changed, and they, unlike most Londoners, had the means to get away.

The Courtaulds left Eltham Palace in May 1944 to live in Scotland. In 1951 they moved again, to Southern Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe. After Stephen’s death in 1967, Virginia moved to Jersey in 1970 where she died in 1972.

Their home in Rhodesia was built in the French Chateau style and named La Rochelle in honour of his antecedents as the Courtaulds were originally Huguenot gold and silversmiths who came to England as refugees form religious persecution. In Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) they became engrossed in the communities living around La Rochelle. They saw a great social need and established a school and home-craft industry for their Black workers. In 1964 they funded an agricultural training farm named Kukwanisa in the Tsonzo area of Nyanga, initially an outstandingly successful venture but which fell into disrepair during the war years. During the Rhodesian War much fighting took place in this countryside. Insurgents were smuggled across the Rhodesia/Mozambique border just a few miles away. La Rochelle was not touched because the owners were sympathizers with the rebel movement. War planning meetings took place in this chateau. As a patron of the arts, Stephen gave funds for the building of a well-equipped theatre in nearby Umtali (now Mutare) which was eventually named the Courtauld Theatre. Further gifts to the town included the construction of Queen's Hall and a pavillion at the showgrounds. They also funded the land and building costs for a multi-racial Club.




La Rochelle, Zimbabwe

Turning to national needs in Harare, the generous couple helped to establish the National Art Gallery, the concert hall at the College of Music and contributed generously to the newly-opened University. They also endowed the Bulawayo Theatre but in general the Courtaulds were modest about their support of the country, so much so that few people knew of their generosity. They even extended helping hands to a clinic on the shores of Lake Nyasa (later Malawi) and in fact it was only after quite a lot of persuasion by the Prime Minister at that time, Roy Welensky, that Stephen reluctantly accepted a British knighthood.

After Sir Stephen's death in 1967, Lady Courtauld faithfully carried on their joint dreams and plans for La Rochelle and Zimbabwe in his memory and before her death in 1972 she bequeathed the entire estate to her "family" as she called the people of this country, the country that they both loved so much. Specific gifts were carefully outlined in the will and although the Turner paintings went back to the UK, beautiful one-off prints were sent back to grace the walls of La Rochelle's dining room.

Despite the considerable evidence of his life he left behind and his accomplishments Stephen Courtauld is for me a perplexing figure. Here was a man rich enough never to have to work and with the riches to allow him to indulge his interests in times when there was great deprivation, Edwardian Britain in the 1910’s, the cataclysmic decade of the Great War, the “roaring 20’s” when the “Land fit for Heroes” degenerated into the class war of the Great Strike, the Depression of the 30’s, the privations of the Second World War and the hungry 50’s afterwards were rationing in a war battered Britain lasted until 1955.

Stephen Courtauld obviously was a brave man who cared about his country, attaining the rank of Major and an M.C. for bravery in the Great War, an accomplished and inveterate mountaineer, a pursuit which requires stamina and bravery and a great patron of the arts and learning, and a civic minded person who volunteered on the home front in the Second World war and cared about his adopted country of Rhodesia and the plight of its black inhabitants to the extent of sympathising with the rebels. However the question must remain how in his gilded cage he related to ordinary people. After the First World War they lived in a huge house at No. 9 Grosvenor Square. They moved to Eltham Palace where they had spent a small fortune building their new wing and restoring the Great Hall and the gardens to create what even today is a perfect house only to move out and surrender their lease in 1944 because Virginia had been so traumatised by the wartime bombing and because the pre-war social scene had disapeared. It may also be that the house had memories of their nephew, Paul Peirano, who they brought up as their own son and who was killed on active service. They then bought a Baronial Mansion on 24,000 acres in Argyll but moved out in 1951 because Virginia got depressed with the damp winters. They then moved to Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) where the fact they were white settlers in a black land became very evident when, as a widow, she had to leave because of the civil war in 1970 and died somewhat isolated in Jersey in 1972.

So the question remains; despite their great wealth, contacts and interests and ability to travel and live in a style unimaginable to most people where did the Courtaulds belong and did they really feel part of something they could call home?

Address:
Tilt Yard Approach
Court Yard
Eltham
London SE9 5QE

Friday, 11 April 2008

Excess, excess Baggage?


Excess Baggage?

The scenario has been experienced by us all – there you are returning home after a good time in the sun, have bought all the bits and pieces and get stung at check in for Excess Baggage charge. Then you realise you have been had, you have no way of checking if the scales are accurate and the staff are obviously “incentivised” (i.e. they get a cut) to charge you. This has become a more common occurrence since the restrictions on liquids in hand baggage and on the size and weight of hand baggage. And what has been the caring response of the airline industry? – Why? to reduce the baggage allowances and increase excess charges as a “nice little earner”! We have all had suspicions that it may not just be a case of our luggage getting heavier but of scales at overseas airports getting dodgier. And as always we are left with a zero choice scenario as we are held to ransom at a check in desk. Now it seems our suspicions about sharp practice are well justified.

Nearly one in five of all baggage weighing scales at London's Gatwick airport gave an inaccurate reading in a spot check test, it has been revealed. An investigation by Trading Standards showed that 62 of the 321 scales used at the north and south terminals worked against the passenger, showing that bags weighed more than they did.

Airlines could have made vast profits out of the errors. At one airline in particular, 10 out of the 18 scales gave a wrong reading. Bruce Treloar, from Trading Standards, said the problem was a combination of human error - with the scales not set at zero - and faulty machines. "It was an incredibly high number of machines which were giving the wrong reading," he said. “We are talking about 20 per cent of the scales working against the consumer and it was not a particularly busy day. It was a mix of human error and problems with the machines as they are used so much - a lot of traffic goes across these scales. There is no legal requirement for them to be checked, so there is no way of knowing if they are becoming increasingly inaccurate."

In its “Hiding the Extra Charges in the Baggage” report, Trading Standards looked at the much publicised issue of the misleading price of travelling. They cited the case of a woman who complained about a flight to Tignes on January 19 this year. She said she had been told as she booked online that there was a 20kg weight limit and a £5 per kilogramme charge if in excess of 20kg. Her luggage weighed 23kg at check-in, despite the fact that she had tested it before leaving home and it had weighed 18kg on her scales. Facing an extra charge of £15, she took her bag off the check-in scales which read 5kg when empty. When re-set at zero, her bag weighed 19kg, well within the limit.

Another woman going to Spain arrived at the airport and thought her bag was too heavy, so had it weighed before she checked in. Told her suitcase was 3kg overweight, she removed 3.74kg - a duvet cover and a book - and placed the items in her hand luggage. When she went to check at a different desk with a different set of scales, she was told her original bag was 2.4kg too heavy and was charged £12 for excess baggage.


Kos Airport

Ryanair charges £7.50 per kg if a bag is overweight, Flybe charges £6 per kg, Easyjet charges £6 per kg, while Monarch charges £5 per kg. Traditionally scheduled airlines have charged 1% of the First Class Fare for a destination meaning astonished passengers have ended up spending more on baggage charges than they paid for their economy fare.

Mr Treloar said the investigation into the baggage weigh-in was prompted by an increasing number of complaints to two major airports. Although the airliner with 10 out of 18 inaccurate scales was not disclosed, Trading Standards warned that airliners and airport would be "named and shamed" if conditions did not improve.


MyTravel?

Our experience with MyTravel coming back from Kos last year is salutary. First and foremost the reps MyTravel use are generally next to useless, generally no hopers from Salford or, even worse, Wolverhampton who want a summer of sun, sex and booze but find they are working sweatshop hours for buttons and there only hope of “extra” is from selling excursions at 50% more than you can buy them downtown – here and elsewhere we discovered you don’t see them unless you go to the dreaded “welcome meeting” and buy these overpriced excursions or rent a car to drive on roads considerably more dangerous than in the UK. We had to laugh as they pitched to a room of parents with kids and 30 / 40 year olds for a “Greek Night” where you could get “hammered on rocket fuel” and wouldn’t remember much afterwards. Yep, I asked and they had worked for Club 18:30 the previous season and their “local knowledge” consisted of a rubbish bar in town where the Reps got free drink and it had a “stormin” Karaoke Night. Victims who went to the Greek Night did get plenty of rough wine, a BBQ and the spectacle of dancing sailors! Bit of a specialist interest!


Worth paying "Extra"?

Never mind, on the way back to the airport the rep we hadn’t seen all week came alive and excitedly told us we would have the “opportunity” to pay for additional (sic) luggage at “only” £5.50 a Kg. MyTravel (don’t these silly names annoy?) give you an allowance of 20kg. Whether you go for 3 days, a week, or as we did 2 weeks and at check in they demanded £105 extra from us for, as we know, the scales don’t lie! After some bartering I got them down to £55 to get on the plane and resolved never to travel with them again. This year they have been taken over by Thomas Cook and I checked what the deal was. Your “Standard” allowance is now 15 kg. but they automatically charge you £18 for the “opportunity “ to buy 5kg. extra! This of course in their long tradition of charging you for things which used to be included such as meals, transfers and even sitting together. The last one is a “hilarious” extra because they have no system and the only couple in our hotel who bought this “extra” ended up sitting apart! So the head of Thomas Cook has announced that Summer Bookings are strong – No Sir. With the credit crunch and the strength of the Euro it certainly won’t be. And if you keep trying to charge customers for nothing they will walk. MyTravel? Nope, don’t think so!

Thursday, 10 April 2008

God Speed?


Speedy Anwar

Motoring offences and the accompanying ingenious excuses provide good press fodder and a thriving industry for lawyers none more so than Nick Freeman, dubbed “Mr. Loophole” in the British Press who has built up an impressive Casebook of celebrities over the years and indeed extended case law by providing a number of novel grounds for defending prosecutions under the Road Traffic Act.

It was scary, innit?
In 1999 David Beckham was charged with speeding in his Ferrari. Freeman argued that at the time he was being chased by paparazzi and was forced to drive with excessive speed to avoid death or injury. He lost the case at the magistrates’ court but took it to the crown court. The judge upheld the guilty verdict but because of the circumstances revoked the three penalty points that had been imposed.

“Duress of circumstance can be used in many situations,” says Freeman. “You could be driving on a motorway and someone is driving too close to you; you might be afraid of being carjacked; another driver might be driving like an idiot. The law enables you to put distance between you and them. You can’t deny your driving but you can put forward a reason for it.”


Mr. Loophole

A good run?
Sir Alex Ferguson was charged with driving on the hard shoulder of a motorway — an offence that carries a three-point penalty. Freeman successfully argued that the Manchester United manager had been suffering from diarrhoea and needed to be able to leave the car quickly.
“I said to the court that he had two choices, one of which was particularly unpalatable,” says Freeman. “Once that is raised, the prosecution has to prove beyond reasonable doubt that it is not true. The key point with this defence is that you can only argue it if you felt unwell only after you had first joined that particular road and not on the journey as a whole.

“Many conditions are a valid argument for this defence as long as you perceive it subjectively to be an emergency at the time. The defence can also cover things such as dangerous driving.”


Nowhere to run?

A wee problem
Ronnie O’Sullivan, the former world snooker champion, was charged with failure to provide a urine sample for laboratory analysis. Freeman successfully argued that because O’Sullivan had been suffering from depression he was medically unable to do so.

“The newspaper headline was, ‘Too stressed to wee’, but there was a medical reason why he couldn’t. From a legal perspective I don’t have to prove this was true, I have to raise it as an issue,” says Freeman. “Once we raise it — with expert medical evidence — the prosecution have to disprove it with medical evidence.”

I wuz scared!
Ashley Fitton was breathalysed after an evening out with her husband and found to be over the limit. Freeman argued that the former model had been coerced into driving by her husband, who had a history of violence and abuse. “Legally you cannot be found guilty if you have been forced into doing something. The key point is that there has to be a real threat of violence,” says Freeman.

You talking to me?
Failing to prove the accused was behind the wheel is one of Freeman’s most successful tactics. He used it in the case of golfer Colin Montgomerie, who had been caught speeding after a night out.

“In court the policeman didn’t identify the accused, he referred to a Mr Montgomerie, but that could have been anyone. There was no date of birth given, no address given and no dock identification,” says Freeman. This sort of mistake by the prosecution is more of a technicality but it is more common than you think. You should always be identified with name, date of birth, address and ideally a visual ID.”

Scaring Horses?
In Ireland I remember particularly fondly the case of a motorist (who happened to be a Barrister) who was found by the Gardai slumped over the wheel of his car in a field having ploughed off the road through a fence and when tested was three times over the drink drive limit. His defence was that, as he was discovered on private property, there was no evidence that he was driving when drunk in a “public place”. Amazingly he won his case in the lower court and the State appealed it to the Circuit Court in Ireland where it was heard by the venerable President of the Court; Mr Justice O’hUdaigh. I knew O’hUdaigh professionally and he was a small man with a shrill voice which often led people to underestimate him at their peril for he had one of the sharpest legal brains around and when he presided, his skewering of barristers provided an entertaining spectator sport.


He was also a horse owner who had owned a Derby winner. The appeal was going the way of the motorist until the State’s barrister played his trump card “M’lud, if you disallow this appeal it will provide carte blanche for every drunken motorist to drive recklessly on the public highway crashing their cars into field scaring and injuring people AND HORSES!” At the mention of the “H” word O’hUdaigh perked up and within minutes the appeal was allowed and the motorist found himself with a conviction.

So, when it comes to avoiding a ban for speeding, the courts hear every excuse in the book but yesterday (According to the report in the Daily Mail 10/04/2008) one motorist offered what must be a unique reason why he should keep his licence. Mohammed Anwar said a ban would make it difficult to commute between his two wives and fulfil his matrimonial duties. His lawyer told a Scottish court the Muslim restaurant owner has one wife in Motherwell and another in Glasgow - he is allowed up to four under his religion - and sleeps with them on alternate nights. He also needed his driving licence to run his restaurant in Falkirk, Stirlingshire.

Airdrie Sheriff Court had heard that Anwar was caught driving at 64mph in a 30mph zone in Glasgow, fast enough to qualify for instant disqualification. Anwar admitted the offence, but Sheriff John C. Morris accepted his plea not to be banned and allowed him to keep his licence. Instead, he was fined £200 and given six penalty points. Lorna Jackson, from the road safety charity Brake, called the decision "astonishing".

She said: "Regardless of the number of wives or businesses this man drives to, he broke a law which is there to protect everyone. Travelling just a few miles over the limit in a 30mph zone can be the difference between life and death if you hit someone, let alone driving at more than twice the speed limit. Drivers know the law, and they know the punishment they could face when they break it. For the courts to allow someone to keep their licence when they have so blatantly flouted the law and put peoples' lives at risk, on the basis of an excuse such as this, is astonishing."

Anwar, had made no comment during his five-minute court appearance, apart from confirming his identity. But last night, speaking from his restaurant Sanam, he said: "It is true I have two wives. Muslim men are allowed up to four. But I am not a religious leader and it is not my place to comment. As a matter of respect to my wives I would not comment on my home life. The sheriff did not ban me because I need my licence to run my business, although my wives were also part of the decision."


Curry in a Hurry?

The court had heard that Anwar was on his way home from Falkirk to his Glasgow wife on August 21, 2007, when he was caught by city police using a hand-held speed camera. His lawyer, Paul Nicolson, said: "He realises his licence is at risk, but this is an unusual case and is very anxious to keep his driving licence.

"He has one wife in Motherwell and another in Glasgow and sleeps with one, one night and stays with the other the next on an alternate basis. Without his driving licence he would be unable to do this on a regular basis. He is also a restaurant owner and has a restaurant in Falkirk, which he has had for the past 30 years. He has had a clean driving licence until now, and on this particular evening was on his way home after a busy evening at his restaurant."

Well bully for Anwar and all those people who have lost their jobs because they have lost their licence when they tripped revenue raising speed cameras but didn’t have slick lawyers to argue their dubious cases will not resent his victory in the slightest. It is a strange precedent as polygamy is expressly forbidden in British Law and Bigamy is an indictable offence but seemingly being married to multiple spouses (at the same time!) can be used as a basis for obtaining Council housing, benefits and here as a valid mitigation in a motoring case. There appears to be very little Common Law on this issue these days.

Sheriff John C. Morris at Airdrie Sheriff Court would have served the Law and victims of speeding drivers better if he had reminded Mohammed Anwar of the saying of his namesake Muhammad (peace be upon him) in the Hadith “Trust in Allah, but tie up your camel” and then proceeded in short order to suspend his licence.

Wednesday, 9 April 2008

Queen Elizabeth II Will Leave Behind Long Legacy Of Waving

God Bless you M'aam


Queen Elizabeth II Will Leave Behind Long Legacy Of Waving

Long to wave over us!!

Tuesday, 8 April 2008

Dustin the Turkey, 2008 Eurovision Winner.

Has their ever been a Turkey with such talent?

Irelande Douze Pointes!! The 2008 winner! You heard / saw this Turkey first here!

Up, up and away with BAA No. 2?


Cardboard City at Heathrow Teminal 5

Well following on from my Blog of 14th March last;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/03/up-up-and-away-with-baa.html

Terminal 5 has opened with a bang, but not the one its exclusive user British Airways, expected. In fact passengers at Heathrow's Terminal 5 have been reduced to sleeping in cardboard boxes as British Airways' woes intensified and the papers have carried Third World (or Waterloo subway) scenes of an impromptu cardboard city at Terminal 5 as disgruntled passengers camp out as flight upon flight gets cancelled. The flagship £4.3 billion building began to resemble a shanty town after the cancellation of more than 100 flights at the weekend left thousands of passengers stranded. The image of people huddling for warmth beneath the boxes, as snow and a technical fault with airport operator BAA's luggage system grounded the planes, was the latest embarrassment for both the airport and airline since the opening of Terminal 5.

Even British Airway’s own pilots have decided to kick them when they are down. Jim McAuslan, the general secretary of the pilots' union, BALPA, rounded on British Airways in an open letter.

"Banks, institutional investors and analysts need to wake up to the fact that there is something very wrong right at the heart of this company that is making our once great brand a laughing stock," he wrote.

Individual pilots have also started to voice their disquiet - at times on the public address system to passengers. One is understood to have said he was "ashamed" to work for the airline and another has urged passengers to email Willie Walsh, the chief executive, with their complaints. A BA spokesman defended the airline's chief executive. He said: "Willie Walsh said he will not resign and is determined to resolve the problems associated with the initial move to Terminal 5." A man of steel is our Willie who left Aer Lingus when the possibility of gaining a small fortune in a management buy out evaporated. The former Aer Lingus chief appeared to come from nowhere when he took over at the Irish airline in 2001. He joined the company in 1979 as a cadet pilot and gradually worked his way up through the ranks into flight operations management in the mid-1990s. In 1998, he became chief executive of Futura - the company's chartered airline in Spain - then was named chief finance officer in 2000.

Willie Walsh

Perhaps his claim that "a reasonable man gets nowhere in negotiations" - made in a staff publication when he represented pilots during their row with managers - was a hint of the man to come, as his tough decisions at the top made him few friends.

In 2004, he made it known that he wanted to explore the possibility of a management buy-out. Irish Prime Minister Bertie Ahern attacked him from the floor of the Dail, the Irish parliament, for trying to cash in on the airline. He left the airline in January 2005, four months ahead of schedule, amid reports that he was in talks about setting up a rival airline.

In fact British Airways has been so bad that they have succeeded in generating sympathy for Supermodel Naomi “Anger Management” Campbell who was led off one of their planes by Police called by BA staff after she paid £6,000 for a First Class fare to Los Angeles and BA lost one of her bags which contained an outfit for a memorial service she was attending. Naomi, with the BA Lottery, you pays your money and takes your chances - surely you didn't believe the publicity on their website about the "First Experience" giving you "Effortless Travel" and "Choice and Control" not to mention the clincher "A queue-less, personalised and stress free environment to check in your baggage."? What did you expect from British Airways for a mere six thousand pounds? Respect? Efficiency? Your baggage back? Keeping their promises to you? Oh Naomi, to think you used to be streetwise!! Heathrow Terminal 5 to Heathrow Central Police Station in only 10 hours!!

The Stress Free First Experience


It is notable that as Customer Service has deteriorated in the Transport industry fashionable posters have appeared saying something to the effect “Our Staff will not be abused” and threatening dire sanctions and Police action to those in Cattle (and First) Class who make outrageous demands to be treated with respect and civility on the unreasonable grounds that they have paid for a ticket. As Airport Operators and Airlines routinely abuse passengers, flaunt the Disability Discrimination Act and ignore EU Law No. 261 on the rights of airline passengers the Police (Security is paramount in the current climate!) seem entirely content to become attack dogs for an increasingly abusive and uncaring transport industry. It is for such Independence of Mind that we have a Police Service to apply the Law without fear or favour and 46 highly paid Chief Constables and one Metropolitan Commissioner who, by law, must be unfettered and independent in their operational responsibilities. You may not find this at your local airport Transport Secretary Ruth Kelly, where staff (often Agency badly trained minimum wage types) use the posters and Police to say Foxtrot Oscar to the old, the disabled and those with children.

Independent Constables of the Realm keeping the Queen's Peace and applying the Law without Fear or Favour

These are the rights the UK SHOULD be enforcing at UK airports for people with reduced mobility from the EU’s website:

Around 10% of the EU population is affected by reduced mobility – these are mainly disabled and elderly people, while others are unable to walk long distances as often required in modern airports. Most airlines and airports make genuine efforts to offer the necessary assistance. However, not all of them provide comprehensive assistance, free of charge. These problems are addressed by Regulation (EC) No 1107/2006, adopted by the Parliament and the Council on 5 July 2006, which provides for persons with reduced mobility to travel by plane without difficulty. The Regulation’s provisions cover three areas; those covering the first area are entering into force tomorrow.

Equal treatment of persons affected by reduced mobility.
For flights from airports in the EU, the Regulation prohibits the refusal by airlines and tour operators to carry passengers, or to take bookings, on the basis of reduced mobility. Exceptions can be made only for duly justified safety reasons. This should put an end to (generally unintended) instances of discrimination.

Free assistance in all EU airports.
As from 26 July 2008, airports will have to provide a specific set of services for persons with reduced mobility.

Assistance on board.
On flights from EU airports, airlines will be obliged to provide certain services, such as the carrying of wheelchairs or guide dogs, free of charge. These rules will also enter into force on 26 July 2008.

The EU’s Member States, for their part, have to set up enforcement bodies responsible for ensuring that the Regulation is applied on their territory. Any person affected by a disability or by reduced mobility who considers that these rights have not been respected can bring the matter to the attention of the management of the airport or the airline in question. In case of an unsatisfactory response, a complaint can be made to the national enforcement body designated by the Member State.
For further information, go to:

http://ec.europa.eu/transport/air_portal/passenger_rights/prm/index_en.htm

The link to this site also gives you access to the general rights you have at EU airports when flights are delayed, cancelled or you are denied boarding;

“Denied boarding.
The new regulation will dramatically reduce the frequency of denying boarding against a passenger's will, by a combination of two measures. First, when expecting to turn passengers away, and before doing anything else, airlines will be obliged to call for volunteers to surrender their seats in exchange for advantages; in other words they would try to strike a deal with passengers interested in giving up their seats. Only if insufficient volunteers came forward, would they be allowed to deny passengers boarding against their will. Second, if after all airlines or tour operators do deny passengers boarding, they would have to pay compensation at a dissuasive level:

• € 250 for flights of less than 1500 km
• € 400 for intra-Community flights of more than 1500 km and for other flights 1500 and 3500 km
• € 600 for all other flights.


This will create a strong incentive to make volunteering attractive and a powerful deterrent to deny boarding. In addition to financial compensation, passengers denied boarding will continue to enjoy these rights:

• the choice between reimbursement of their ticket and an alternative flight, and
• meals, refreshments and hotel accommodation.
• Minimise the inconvenience of cancellations.


When airlines or tour operators cancel flights on their own responsibility, passengers will have the right to compensation at the rate fixed for denied boarding, unless:

they are informed two weeks before the scheduled time of departure, or

they are informed on due time and re-routed at a time very close to that of their original flight.

In addition, in case of cancellations, passengers will receive three other rights:

• meals and refreshments, and
• hotel accommodation, when a cancellation obliges a passenger to stay overnight, and
• Reimbursement, when a cancellation delays a passenger for at least five hours.
• Assist passengers facing long delays.


When airlines reasonably expect a long delay, they will be obliged to give passengers:

• meals and refreshments, and
• hotel accommodation, when a delay obliges a passenger to stay overnight, and
• Reimbursement, when a delay delays a passenger for at least five hours.


Your rights are summarised on the poster (see link) which should be displayed at every UK Airport but those who DEMAND RESPECT often hide them around corners and in stairwells;

http://ec.europa.eu/transport/air_portal/passenger_rights/doc/2008_apr_poster/aff_apr_a4_en.pdf

The European Union provide a Freephone Helpline Number: 00800 678 91011 which is staffed 09.00 to 18.30 CET Weekdays.

By contrast the National Enforcement Body for the UK, the Civil Aviation Authority and its totally toothless passenger watchdog, The Air Transport Users Council, provide nothing because being British, they rely on everybody being good chappies!

Disabled Friendly?

We have seen what has happened in Terminal 5 – Elsewhere Ryanair’s respect for the law extends to NOT having the EU leaflets which should be available from all carriers and giving you a one page summary saying they disagree with the Law therefore they won’t apply it. Try this argument with the Police at a UK Airport the next time you receive the FOXTROT OSCAR treatment from the Oh, so law abiding, Airport Operators and Airlines. And Finally – The EU is prosecuting National Enforcement Authorities, including the CAA in the United Kingdom, for NOT ENFORCING EC LAW ON PASSENGER RIGHTS. Somebody should explain to people who do not pay for their flights, such as the Secretary of State for Transport and the Government’s “Respect Czar” that respect is a TWO WAY PROCESS. Let’s stand up for respect for Disabled People and Passengers in general. Indeed the UK Border Agency (Leadership by example?) could comply with the Disability Discrimination Act at entry points and so could Airport Security checks so I wouldn’t have to witness, as I did at Birmingham’s miserable airport, an elderly passenger tottering taking off a leg brace without even a chair being provided and being ignored by staff and a manager with no disability awareness training.

Perhaps the Constabulary could turn its attention to such illegality and stop helping badly run profit hungry private Airlines and Airports bully and intimidate passengers? Now there is a respectful thought?

Sunday, 6 April 2008

Give my regards to 55, Broadway.



href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Nf5FfHNth64/R_lTG16UYBI/AAAAAAAAAXs/3aGHfQ3gQk4/s1600-h/55+Broadway.jpg">

Art Deco flourished through the 20s & 30s popularised by the Paris Exhibition of 1925and was applied to all forms including architecture. Influences included Cubism (with zigzags & geometricals), Ancient Egypt (following the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun by Howard Carter & Lord Carnaervon in 1922) and Aztec & Mayan art (from South America & Mexico). It was a machine age style which utilised the innovations of the times such as plastics, chrome & aluminium. At a time of economic depression and the approach of war there was a desire for escapism. People enjoyed the pleasures of life during the 'Jazz Age'. Speed and streamlining became important especially in the new modes of travel such as the first commercial flights, trains such as the Orient Express and ocean-going liners. It was also a very appropriate style to apply to a transport undertaking such as the London Underground looking to develop a house style and image from the amalgam of private operations which had constructed the original Tube.

There was a fortunate meeting in the 20’s and 30’s in London of a British Arts and Crafts revival, talented immigrants from Eastern Europe and Germany and corporate sponsors of posters, art and design such as the GPO, Shell Oil and last but no means least, London Transport.

55 Broadway - Original Ground Floor layout


55 Broadway - New reception area

In the 20s & 30s London Transport owed much of its corporate design to Frank Pick especially in his employment of Charles Holden as architect from 1924. In 1931 they went on a tour of Scandanavia and the Netherlands which gave them some inspiration. On his return Holden worked on the Piccadilly line designing stations such as Osterley and Southgate, many occupying corner sites. The distinctive house style was applied to all new stations built in the 1930s including those designed by other architects. The influences from Pick and Holden’s European tour are clearly seen in many station buildings with, for instance, the “totem” on Osterley Station on the Piccadilly Line echoing the “Telegraaf” Amsterdam by Staal and Langhout.

Charles Holden 1875 - 1960

When it was completed in 1929, The London Underground's new headquarters, named after its postal address of 55, Broadway, was London's tallest office block. A skyscraper of its day, it is now dwarfed by almost every major office building in the city. But that doesn't stop it from appearing monumental. Inside it houses the headquarters of London Underground, St. James's Park Station and the small Broadway shopping arcade.


First use of cruciform plan for a London office building

1929 - The tallest building in London

In 1926 The Underground Group commissioned 55 Broadway, over St James's Park station, as its new headquarters. It was to replace Electric Railway House, whose offices were too cramped for the growing organisation. The headquarters was to symbolise the company's vision of public transport being at the heart of London's social and commercial life. Frank Pick, assistant managing director of the Underground Group, commissioned the architect Charles Holden of the firm Adams Holden and Pearson to design the building. On its completion in 1929, 55 Broadway was the tallest building in London on one side overlooking the Houses of Parliament and on the other side overlooking Buckingham Palace. The Directors had a clear idea of their place in the world! However, building restrictions prevented the floors above the seventh being used as offices. The modern and assertive design was considered an architectural masterpiece with the cruciform layout enabling natural light and ventilation throughout. It was awarded the London Architectural Medal by the Royal Institute of British Architects in 1929.

The Underground Group's desire to make a bold architectural statement in keeping with the ideals of the company had been realised. The obsession with clear design and image was continued through to Harry Beck’s famous schematic map, commissioning its own “machine typeface” to make its posters, signage and publications clearer, building instantly recognisable branded station buildings and station fittings and using engaging and innovative advertising in the 30’s. Today London Underground’s trademark roundel is the second most recognised brand worldwide.

Electro Magnetic train frequency "Clocks" in Reception

Holden commissioned some of the most famous sculptors of the day to carve large figurative reliefs, depicting the four winds, directly onto the stonework. These are high up each side of the four wings. The sculptors were Eric Gill, Henry Moore, Eric Aumonier, Samuel Rabinovitch, Allan Wyon and Alfred Gerrard. Holden commissioned Jacob Epstein to create two groups over the entrance fronts called “Day” and “Night”. Their primitive, vital style and the figures' nudity created a furore. Both Pick and Holden stood by the sculptor, Pick even tendering his resignation in support of Epstein. His resignation was not accepted and the sculptures stayed. However an inch and a half had to be removed from the penis of the figure in 'Day', as the original size offended contemporary sensibilities. Epstein's sculptures were not universally slated. One contemporary commentator wrote, “When one looks at them one hardly likes them, but they make such a powerful impression on the mind that when one has left the building they stand out in the memory and seem vividly to symbolise their subjects”. The same commentator went on to say “one would be happier if all buildings were as good as this”.

Henry Moore "West Wind"

The other sculptures on the building are also worthy of mention. Eric Gill was put in charge of "The Winds" which adorn the higher walls of the building. He created three himself, the others were by contemporary artists including Henry Moore, whose "West Wind" was his first public commission, and can be seen on the north side of the east wing.




Jacob Epstein "Day"

"Buildings of Britain" by Nicholas Pevsner and Bridget Cherry, 1973. noted;

“Broadway architecturally means No.55, the headquarters building of LONDON TRANSPORT, by Charles Holden, 1927-9, a bold building for London and its date, even if in some ways still keeping a retreat open to the broad Georgian road. The composition in blocks and their stepping back high up in is entirely of the 20th Century. Functionally it is ingenious. The building had to combine the necessities of an underground station with a large number of offices. So a large part of the area is one storeyed. The centre tower is 175 feet high, containing lifts, staircases, lavatories etc. It has a square, gradually diminishing top. From the tower extend four spurs. What there is of sculptural decoration is of extreme interest, two large groups by Epstein, 'Day' and 'Night' (East side of North and South wings). E. Aumonier (West and North Wing), A.Wyon (West and North Wing), A. H. Garrard (West Side, South Wing), and F. Rabinovitch (South Side, East Wing). They are considered revolutionary at the time, and Dr Holden had to use all his persuasion to have them accepted. Architectural detail is curiously undecided. The ground floor has granite columns; they are circular piers rather than columns, it is true, and have plain blocks as capitals, but they appear as columns all the same. The windows are upright and have glazing bars reminiscent of Georgian sash window, and the spurs are connected by diagonal arches high up and close to the junction of the tower.”

55, Broadway has also been a direct contributor the design of clear modern typefaces. A sans-serif typeface was commissioned in 1913 by Frank Pick, Commercial Manager of the London Electric Railway Company (also known as “The Underground Group”), as part of his plan to strengthen the company's corporate identity. In 1933, The Underground Group become a major part of London Transport and the typeface was adopted for the complete network.


Boardroom 7th Floor

The font family was originally called "Underground", it became known as "Johnston's Railway Type", and later simply "Johnston". It comes with 2 weights, Heavy and Ordinary. Heavy contains only capital letters. Johnston's former student Eric Gill also worked on the development of the typeface and the design was later to influence his Gill Sans typeface, produced 1928–1932. Frank Pick later commissioned Percy Delf Smith (another former pupil) to draw up a 'petit-serif' adaptation of the typeface, originally for the headquarters building at 55 Broadway, SW1.

55, Broadway was a pioneering building in a number of ways. It very cleverly uses an irregular shaped site by using a cruciform plan with the arms being different lengths but giving a visually symmetrical appearance when seen on its corner elevation from Toothill Street. By using a cruciform arrangement (Which Holden and other architects were using for hospitals, such as St. Luke’s in Malta, which he designed) the light wells were brought out from the centre of the building to make maximum use of available light with lifts and services placed centrally, reducing corridor lengths. Following American practice, offices were open plan, permitting the spread of light and making their layout easy to alter. There were other innovations such as a central mail handling system whereby it could be “posted” on each floor and go directly down a chute to the mailroom in the basement. The plan also allowed natural ventilation throughout so the building does not need energy greedy aircon to this day.

Former Chairman's Office - 7th Floor

Despite its Portland Stone appearance the construction was entirely modern utilising a structural steel frame so the stone cladding is just that. It was built on 700 piles on airspace above St James Park Station and is the prototype for the many similar developments throughout London built over the “cut and cover” sections of the Underground which to this day make a substantial contribution to improving the railway. In one pile was placed a “time capsule” with notes about the building and the Underground and containing photographs of the site, a railway car and a bus. The building was set back above the seventh, ninth and tenth floors in line with the London Building Acts requirements. These helped to delineate the hierarchy with the Directors offices on the 7th Floor where the East Wing still contains the original oak clad boardroom and Chairman’s offices whose interiors are listed.

In the 1980s the ground floor of the building was redesigned to create a new, improved reception area and a shopping mall. 55 Broadway is now a Grade II listed building.


10th Floor restaurant - Originally Director's Dining Room


One of the four 10th Floor Roof Gardens

The builders of 55, Broadway saw good design as good for business. By the example it set under Frank Pick the Underground was gradually able to change the public’s attitude to railway stations which had been seen as shabby and inhospitable places. Sir Nicholas Pevsner wrote that Pick saw in every detail a “visual propaganda” and he used this not only to improve the Underground but the environment as a whole. Charles Holden brought the Underground station to the forefront of modern architecture: This achievement is unequalled by any other transport company before or since.


St. James Park Station entrance

The apex of his achievement for the Underground and the building which proclaims its sense of purpose and commitment to the people of London is 55, Broadway. As the Blitz and the 2005 London Tube bombings more recently have shown this is not any ordinary transport undertaking but a publicly owned company synonymous with a public duty to the city where it runs the world’s largest metro system. With property values in London becoming more unreal due to Non Doms. and the like, no doubt some wide boys (Generally called “consultants” or “rising stars”) will look at the possibility of asset stripping this unique listed building and creating a “new culture” in some god forsaken rented cubicle factory. No doubt this will promote co-operative working by having an atrium with some poor imitation of a Calder mobile representing a tube train and a statue of an ordinary tube worker looking up at it saying “this costs a fortune and we’ll never own it!” The same wide boy asset strippers would never think it is sensible to sell their own house and move into a trailer park.

Nope, the Underground doesn’t need this ersatz corporate culture for it has a real mission of a World Class Tube for a World Class City. And in 55, Broadway it has the real deal, an award winning, iconic, paid for, fit for purpose building over a tube station whose purpose and intent is captured on the poster issued when it opened “London’s Underground – Always at Your Service.”

China Celebrates Its Status As World’s Number One Air Polluter


China Celebrates Its Status As World�s Number One Air Polluter

Friday, 4 April 2008

Britain in Iraq.



It is now generally accepted, even amongst die hard “Neo – Cons”, that when America and Britain invaded Iraq in March 2003 they did so based on a false prospectus using doubtful intelligence which had been hyped and spun. None of the substantive allegations made in the now infamous “Dodgy Dossier” have since proved to be correct. There were no “Weapons of Mass Destruction” (WMDs), no ability to attack British Bases (In Cyprus!) within 45 minutes; etc, etc, Large parts of the dossier, it has since emerged, had been lifted from a postgraduate student's thesis. Foreign Secretary Jack Straw said later that year he never saw the controversial "dodgy dossier" about Iraq's alleged weapons of mass destruction before it was published in February 2003. Mr Straw said the dossier was an "embarrassment" for the government and was commissioned by Downing Street communications director Alastair Campbell. He apologised to the student whose thesis was used as the basis of the "dodgy dossier", during questions from the Commons foreign affairs select committee. He however, defended the way the reports were made public, amid claims that Number 10 hyped up intelligence about Iraqi weapons. He admitted the whole "dodgy dossier" affair was "a complete Horlicks".

The initial strikes on 20 March 2003 were targeted at Saddam Hussein and his sons with little squeamishness about the civilians killed in the attack and afterwards the chaos which ensued with looting of museums and settling of scores represented a complete abdication of the responsibility required of Britain and America under the Geneva Conventions as “Occupying Powers.” Five years on there is a general consensus that the invasion has been disastrous and that Al-Qaeda has been extremely fortunate to have had the services of a recruiter of the calibre of George Walker Bush. And whilst there is little evidence to associate the religion of Islam with “terrorism” there is considerable evidence to associate the occupation of Arab lands with resistance. Indeed the Geneva Convention expressly recognises the right of occupied peoples to resist an occupier and whilst Bush’s now disgraced Attorney General found the Geneva Conventions “quaint” others as diverse as Colin Powell, John McCain and Jacques Chirac had pointed out that they had protected American soldiers in previous conflicts. Of course, the aforementioned Powell, McCain and Chirac had actually fought for their countries and experienced the brutality of war firsthand which is why they probably lacked the unencumbered strategic vision of a Bush, Cheney or Rumsfeld. Today, under the strict definitions of International Law, the only lands occupied by an “Occupying Power” are the West Bank of Palestine and Iraq, although I’m sure a case can be made for more.

The legality of the invasion of Iraq in 2003 has been debated fiercely. International lawyers and anti-war campaigners reacted with astonishment after the influential Pentagon hawk Richard Perle conceded that the invasion of Iraq had been illegal. In a startling break with the official White House and Downing Street lines, Mr Perle told an audience in London: "I think in this case international law stood in the way of doing the right thing." President George Bush has consistently argued that the war was legal either because of existing UN Security Council resolutions on Iraq - also the British government's publicly stated view - or as an act of self-defence permitted by international law. But Mr Perle, a key member of the defence policy board, which advises the US defence secretary, Donald Rumsfeld, said that "international law ... would have required us to leave Saddam Hussein alone", and this would have been morally unacceptable. French intransigence, he added, meant there had been "no practical mechanism consistent with the rules of the UN for dealing with Saddam Hussein". Mr Perle, who was speaking at an event organised by the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London, had argued loudly for the toppling of the Iraqi dictator since the end of the 1991 Gulf war.

The United Nations Secretary General, Kofi Annan, said In September 2004, that the decision to go to war without a second resolution was illegal. "I have indicated it was not in conformity with the UN charter from our point of view - from the charter point of view - it was illegal," he told the BBC. In his final speech as UN head, in late 2006, he again attacked US unilateralism, saying: "No nation can make itself secure by seeking supremacy over others."




Ishtar Gate of Babylon

Whatever the immediate debates prior to the invasion of Iraq if Tony Blair et al. had more of an eye on British Colonial history they would have perhaps exercised more caution because, in an area which is highly competitive, Britain has a particularly disgraceful and unhappy history in Iraq and a well deserved reputation for double dealing in the region. Wiser counsel might have suggested that this was an area where it would be peculiarly difficult to intervene let alone be there as an occupying power for 5 years and counting. For it is Iraq that the British Army suffered its worst defeat in modern times at Kut – al – Amara.

Ottoman rule over Iraq lasted until World War I (1914-1918) when Britain conquered Iraq. In the tumbledown city of Kut -al -Amara south of Baghdad, a half-flooded cemetery is one of the few memorials to British control of Iraq. The tops of gravestones stick out of the slimy green water which obscures the names of some of the 40,000 British soldiers who died in Iraq in World War I. British rule over the three provinces which became present-day Iraq was never happy. In November 1914, a week after the Ottoman Empire had entered the war on the side of the Central Powers (Germany and Austria-Hungary), Indian Expeditionary Force ‘D’ landed at Fao in the southernmost province of Ottoman Iraq. Their subsequent occupation and de facto annexation of the area consolidated a connection with a region in which Britain had long been economically dominant.

Kut-al-Amara lies on the River Tigris at its confluence with the Shatt-al-Hai (a canal of ancient history), 120 miles upstream from the British positions at Amara and 500 miles upstream from the port of Basra. The town lies in a loop of the river with a small settlement on the opposite bank, and in 1915 was a densely-populated, filthy place. The civilian population was around 7000; many were evicted as the army fell back into the town. It had large local supplies of grain due its peacetime role as a marketplace.

At the time of this action, daytime temperatures had cooled and were no longer a problem; night was freezing. Following the unexpected repulse in front of Ctesiphon, the exhausted and depleted British force was urged back to the defences of Kut-al-Amara, which after an epic retreat was reached on 3rd December 1915.

From Whitehall - in full knowledge that it was going to be impossible to reinforce the army in Mesopotamia, given all of the other mounting demands - came advice to retire even further downstream. Unfortunately it came too late, for the 6th (Poona) Division was by this time besieged - and learning that 8 more Turkish Divisions, recently moved from Gallipoli now the British force had been defeated there, were massing near Baghdad. Divisional commander Charles Townshend was promised a rapid relief. He calculated that there were enough supplies in Kut to enable his force to hold out for a month: he was told it might take two months for the relief force to arrive. He sensibly suggested an attempt to break out and retire - but Sir John Nixon ordered him to remain and hold as many Turkish troops around Kut as possible. 10000 fighting men were bottled up in the town as the Turk units surrounded it and sealed off retreat; the boats - the vital lifeline back to Amara - got away just in time.


Kut-al-Amara

Townshend at first kept the garrison on a full daily ration, fully confident that a relieving force would arrive. Several large-scale attacks by the Turks were beaten off, with high losses on both sides in December 1915. Meanwhile the attempt to assemble a force and advance to relieve the garrison failed in a series of bitterly-contested attacks in January and March 1916. The British lost a further 23000 men in the attempt, and the Turks around 10000. At one point, orders were prepared for an effort to break out of the siege. But by April 1916, the supplies had dwindled and the rate of sickness in the town had escalated to epidemic proportions. An attempt by the paddle steamer Julnar to reach the town by river failed after a valiant attempt. Small quantities of supplies were dropped from the air but it was nowhere near enough to save the garrison.

On 26th April 1916, after receiving approval from higher command and Governments, Townshend asked the Turks for a 6-day armistice and permission for 10 days food to be sent into the town. Khalil Pasha, Turkish commander, agreed and requested talks with Townshend the next day. During the talks, Khalil demanded unconditional surrender. Townshend offered a million pounds sterling, all the guns in the town and a promise that the men would not again engage in fighting the Turkish army. Khalil was of a mind to accept; Enver Pasha was not. He wanted a spectacular victory, inflicting as much damage to British prestige as possible. Meanwhile the garrison in Kut used the armistice time to destroy anything useful left in the town. On the 29th, Townshend surrendered. It was the greatest military disaster ever to have befallen the British Army.

But worse was to come. Townshend himself went into a comfortable if isolated captivity. The sick, unfit, undernourished men of the garrison were force-marched, many beaten savagely, many killed by acts of wanton cruelty. More than 3000 of those who surrendered at Kut were murdered by the Turks in this way, while in captivity. Those who survived were little more than skeletons when they were 2 years later released or exchanged. The British Army lost 227 British and 204 Indian officers and 12828 other ranks - of which 2592 were British - when the garrison surrendered. The Turks killed more than 1700 of the British other ranks and possibly as many as 3000 of the Indian troops, while in captivity. Losses during the fighting during the siege were approximately 2000 and the relieving force lost 23,000 in the attempt.

The decision to stand at Kut was a grave mistake: the initiative, until then always with the British in this campaign, passed to the Turks. The forces available to relieve the garrison were too few and too long in coming. The fact that the Tigris Corps, coming to the relief of the garrison, fought a splendid if ultimately unsuccessful campaign was to no avail. The loss of Kut and the Poona Division stunned the British Empire and her Allies and provided another huge morale boost for Turkey and Germany, especially coming so soon after Britain's ignominious withdrawal from Gallipoli. The need to relieve Kut drew more forces into Mesopotamia - what impact would this force have had if it had been deployed into the Western Front at this time, when British strength and reserves were still small?


British War Memorial, Basra.

Eventually, reinforcements from Britain and the transfer of the military command to London made possible the capture of Baghdad in March 1917. In November 1918, a few days after the end of the war, the city of Mosul was occupied, and the surrounding province was also deemed to have fallen into British hands. When a much-reinforced British Army finally defeated the Turks, the UK was immediately faced with some of the problems still facing anybody seeking to rule Iraq today. Captain Arnold Wilson, the British civil commissioner in newly captured Baghdad, believed that the creation of the new state was a recipe for disaster. He warned that the deep differences between the three main communities - Sunni, Shia and Kurds - ensured it could only be "the antithesis of democratic government". This was because the Shia majority rejected domination by the Sunni minority, but "no form of government has been envisaged which does not involve Sunni domination.

After the British conquered much of the Middle East, they re-drew much of the boundaries not according to the Ottoman rule or to ethnic lines, but rather according to strategic objectives and various political agreements with France (such as the Sykes-Picot Agreement). As a result, much of the border issues that developed later in the twentieth century, such as between Iraq and Kuwait, between Iran and Iraq, and even between Syria and Turkey, were results of the British and French colonial powers arbritary drawing of the borders. The British established a kingdom in Iraq in 1921 and ruled under a mandate granted by the League of Nations. Britain chose the Hashemite family from Mecca (now in Saudi Arabia) to be the royal family in Iraq. The first king of Iraq was Faisal bin Hussein. Faisal remains something of an enigmatic figure; one of the great “what-ifs” of modern Middle Eastern history is the rather different course which Iraqi history might have taken if Faisal had still been alive in the 1950s (his father died at 79, his brother was 71 when he was assassinated in 1951) rather than dying twenty years earlier. Faisal was vital in the creation of Iraqi identity; he was a genuine war hero and came with a certain reputation both from the Arab revolt and from Syria. In addition, his descent from the Prophet gave him a certain cachet in the eyes of the Shia. All this and more is captured in David Lean’s portrayal of the relationship between Faisal and Colonel T.E. Lawrence in the film “Lawrence of Arabia.”


Feisal's Party at Versailles - Lawrence on his right

His successors were fashioned from much coarser clay; his son Ghazi (born 1912, reigned 1933-39), was a lightweight; his nephew, the Regent ‘Abd al-Ilah (1913-1958, effectively on the throne between 1939 and 1958), was widely hated for his slavish obedience to Britain. His more innocent grandson Faysal II (1935-58) was so tarred with his uncle’s brush that neither of them stood much of a chance against the revolutionaries who came for them and for Nuri al-Sa’id in July 1958.

The merging of the three Ottoman provinces of Mosul, Baghdad, and Basra into one political entity and the creation of a nation out of the diverse religious and ethnic elements inhabiting these lands was accomplished after World War I. Action undertaken by the British military authorities during the war and the upsurge of nationalism after the war helped determine the shape of the new Iraqi state and the course of events during the post-war years, until Iraq finally emerged as an independent political entity in 1932.

British control of Iraq, however, was short-lived. After the war, Britain debated both its general policy in Iraq and the specific type of administration to establish. Britain was still undecided on which policy it should follow in 1920 when events in other Arab countries radically changed conditions in Iraq. Under the influence of nationalists a revolt started in the town of Rumaitha in the middle Euphrates.The national agitation followed that revolt into the tribal areas of the middle Euphrates and in northern Iraq. By the July of 1920 the revolt had spread to all parts of the country except the big cities of Mosul, Baghdad, and Basra, where British forces were stationed.


Faisal in Paris 1918

The causes of the revolt were diverse. Arab nationalists wanted independence. Officials who worked for the Turks were marginalised. The Shia clergy disliked the new authorities because they were Christian. The tribesmen were resentful that the British were more effective than the Turks in collecting taxes. The centre of the revolt was the middle Euphrates. By the time British rule was restored in 1921, some 2,000 British soldiers and 8,000 Iraqis had been killed or wounded. In the wake of the rebellion, the UK tried to rule Iraq cheaply and at one remove.

Britain provided Faisal with RAF bombers, armoured car squadrons and officers to lead the local conscripts, with which to respond to any insubordination on the part of the local population. Any uprising was handled by the bombers, which first dropped warning leaflets on the illiterate villagers and then bombed property and livestock. Bombing was even used to terrorise the peasants into paying taxes. One the largest offensive operations mounted by the RAF was in 1923-24 in Southern Iraq. The tribal leaders responsible for collecting taxes from the semi-nomadic tribesmen and the peasants, who had become increasingly impoverished due to the diversion of the water channels by the most powerful sheikh, refused to pay up. The RAF was ordered to bomb the area in order “to encourage obedience to the government”.

Over a two-week period, 144 were killed and many more were wounded. It was by no means an isolated incident. The RAF was used repeatedly in 1923-34 against the Kurds in Mosul province, who rebelled against taxation and conscription. One officer who had seen duty in the North West Frontier—no stranger to British brutality—feared that air control would only serve to inflame the situation: “Much needless cruelty is necessarily inflicted, which in many cases will not cower the tribesmen, but implant in them undying hatred and a desire for revenge. The policy weakens the tribesman’s faith in British fair play.” But the British played anything but fair. One report to the Colonial office described an air raid in which men, women and children had been machine-gunned as they fled from a village. The politicians took care to ensure that the British public never learned about that incident.




Faisal was always dependent on British support. He and his descendents never succeeded in establishing their nationalist credentials in Iraqi eyes. The British also wanted to reduce the cost of ruling Iraq by relying on air power rather than expensive ground troops. It was a testing ground for the Royal Air Force. Arthur "Bomber" Harris, who was to lead the bomber offensive against Germany 20 years later, did not conceal the fact that he aimed at civilian targets. Harris said in 1924 that he had taught Iraqis "that within 45 minutes a full-sized village can be practically wiped out and a third of its inhabitants killed or wounded".

Some other British leaders were equally blood-thirsty. After the revolt of 1920, TE Lawrence - Lawrence of Arabia - wrote to the London Observer to say: "It is odd that we do not use poison gas on these occasions."

Although the revolt in Iraq was suppressed by force, it prompted Iraq and Great Britain to reconcile their differences. In Britain a segment of public opinion wanted to "get out of Mesopotamia" and urged relief from further commitments. In Iraq the nationalists were demanding independence.


US Soldiers by The Lion of Babylon

In 1921 Britain offered the Iraqi throne to Faisal along with the establishment of an Arab government under British mandate. Faisal wanted the throne if it were offered to him by the Iraqi people. He also suggested the replacement of the mandate by a treaty of alliance. These proposals were accepted by the British government, and Winston Churchill, then colonial secretary, promised to carry them out. He was advised by T.E. Lawrence, (Lawrence of Arabia, who had been seconded to Faisal’s “Arab Army” during the fight against the Ottomans as his de facto military commander) known for his sympathy for the Arabs. In March 1921 a conference presided over by Churchill was held in Cairo to settle Middle Eastern affairs. Faisal was nominated to the Iraqi throne with the provision that a plebiscite be held to confirm the nomination. Sir Percy Cox, recently appointed a high commissioner for Iraq, was responsible for carrying out the plebiscite. A provisional government set up by Cox shortly before the Cairo Conference passed a resolution on July 11, 1921, declaring Faisal king of Iraq, provided that his "Government shall be constitutional, representative and democratic." The plebiscite confirmed this proclamation, and Faisal was formally crowned king on Aug. 23, 1921.

A new treaty was signed on June 30, 1930. It provided for the establishment of a "close alliance" between Britain and Iraq with "full and frank consultation between them in all matters of foreign policy which may affect their common interests." Iraq would maintain internal order and defend itself against foreign aggression, supported by Britain. Any dispute between Iraq and a third state involving the risk of war was to be discussed with Britain in the hope of a settlement in accordance with the Covenant of the League of Nations. In the event of an imminent threat of war, the two parties would take a common defence position. Iraq recognized that the maintenance and protection of essential British communications was in the interest of both parties. Air-base sites for British troops were therefore granted near Basra and west of the Euphrates, but these forces "shall not constitute in any manner an occupation, and will in no way prejudice the sovereign rights of Iraq." This treaty, valid for 25 years, was to come into effect after Iraq joined the League of Nations. On Oct. 3, 1932, Iraq was admitted to the League of Nations as an independent state.


Baghdad 1890

Iraq became formally independent in 1932, but British influence, though diminishing, remained important. During the 1930s, the Sunni ruling clique’s dependence upon Britain became ever more difficult to square with popular sentiment. The Iraqi nationalists resented the IPC’s control of Iraqi oil, while the peasants and urban workers became increasingly impoverished. British policy in Palestine—its support for a Jewish homeland, Jewish immigration and the suppression of the Arab Revolt 1936-39—served to inflame tensions even further.

This led some of the Iraqi politicians and the military that had become increasingly powerful making and breaking governments to orientate towards Nazi Germany. In part this was due to a belief that it would free Iraq from the hated British, but in part it expressed political sympathy with fascism and its exploitation of anti-Semitism, fuelled by the situation in Palestine and the British cultivation of the Jewish financiers in Iraq. This was further exacerbated with the arrival in Baghdad in 1939 of Hajj Amin al-Husseini, the Palestinian nationalist leader, who had fled from the British. In 1941 Rashid Ali, a former Ottoman officer, became prime minister, backed by four army colonels. Encouraged by Hitler's victories in Europe, the new government sought to whittle away at British imperial control. The British denounced the government’s action as a revolt and sent forces from Transjordan and India to Basra, overthrew Rashid Ali and restored Nuri al-Said and the regent to power. After that, with British troops occupying southern Iraq, the government cooperated fully with the British war effort. The following year Britain was able to use it as a base from which to invade Syria and Persia where it installed a pro-British government to support its war effort. In 1943, Nuri al-Said’s Iraq declared war on the Axis powers.

After World War II, the alliance with Britain carried increasing dangers for the Hashemite government as the influence of Arab nationalism increased throughout the Middle East. Although Britain emerged from World War II with its empire in the Middle East intact, it faced very different conditions to those of 1939. The pattern of oil production had changed dramatically and by 1951 the Middle East was providing 70 percent of the West’s oil.


On Patrol in Iraq 2006

Most of the world’s oil reserves were believed to be concentrated in Saudi Arabia and the Persian Gulf. But at the same time as the region’s value was becoming ever more important, Britain faced rising political ferment in the emerging working class. In Palestine, Soviet and American backing for a Zionist state as a way of undermining British influence in the region and the widespread horror at the tragedy that had befallen the Jewish people at the hands of the Nazis had paved the way for the United Nations vote in favour of the partition of Palestine and the establishment of the state of Israel. It incensed the Arab world. In Iraq, Egypt and Iran, where Britain’s highhanded actions in 1942 mirrored that against Rashid Ali, almost all social layers were desperate to throw off the yoke of imperialist rule.

The incoming Labour government under Clement Attlee was no more adept at judging the political tempo in Baghdad than that of the arch imperialist Winston Churchill. When the terms of the treaty that Saleh Jabr and Nuri al-Said had agreed with Britain in January 1948—which would have extended the hated 1930 Anglo-Iraqi Treaty for another 20 years—became known, students, workers and starving townspeople poured onto the streets in protest. The police were only able to suppress the riots with an orgy of brutality that killed nearly 400 people in just one day. Nevertheless the regent was forced to repudiate the treaty. Saleh Jabr resigned and the incoming government inaugurated the most savage era of repression and martial law. Britain’s model for restructuring its alliances in the Middle East policy was in tatters. The last two airbases controlled by Britain were handed back to Iraq in 1955. But three years later, the last British influence was removed when a military coup overthrew the Hashemite dynasty. In the subsequent power struggles, Saddam Hussein worked his way up through the ranks - a rise supported by the West, anxious to preserve its influence in the region.

In February 1955, Nuri al-Said played host to the British-organised regional security alliance of Turkey, Iran, Pakistan and Iraq, known as the Baghdad Pact, that completed a network of alliances spanning the southern rim of Eurasia aimed at containing the Soviet Union. It represented a bid by the British to offset their declining power and give them a say in regional affairs. It was no more acceptable to the Iraqis than the 1948 treaty had been. The other Arab countries would have nothing to do with it. Egypt’s President Nasser, who was becoming a hero in the Arab world for his opposition to the British, denounced the pact vehemently as an attempt by Britain to assert its domination over the region and split the Arab world.

The Anglo-French military campaign in support of the invasion by Israel of the Suez Canal in 1956, aimed at getting rid of Nasser and reinstating Anglo-French control of Suez, outraged the Iraqi people. There were massive anti-British demonstrations all over Iraq. No one doubted for a minute that Nuri al-Said and the regent supported the British. Notwithstanding some face-saving formal protests to Britain, the Iraqi government clamped down violently on the demonstrations and once again resorted to martial law. In July 1958, as tensions and mass demonstrations against the regime mounted, a military group known as the Free Officers overthrew Britain’s venal political agents, the Hashemite monarchy of Faisal II and the government of Prime Minister Nuri al-Said, in a military coup.


Nuri al-Said and Crown Prince Abdul


King Faisal II of Iraq


Arab Summit Beiruit 1956

The royal family and Nuri were assassinated. Such was the loathing of the ancien regime that his naked body was dragged ignominiously through the streets of Baghdad until it was reduced to pulp.

In the eyes of most Iraqi’s forty years of brutal exploitation and political repression by the British and their collaborators had come to an end. Forty-five years on from these events, the defeat of Saddam Hussein and the Ba’athist regime, by the US with Britain as its junior partner, signified the return of direct foreign control and the most brutal forms of repression and exploitation that the Iraqi people thought they had got rid of in 1958. It is already apparent that many of the events of the past five years could have come straight from the records of the first colonial occupation of Iraq.

Look, for example, how the west egged on Saddam to invade Iran in 1980, how we patronised him for eight terrible years with export credits and guns and aircraft and chemicals for gas. Indeed when Donald Rumsfeld first met Saddam he was selling him weapons. Looking back now, we were doing something else. By supporting Saddam's war, we were helping an entire generation of Iraqis to learn to fight--and die.


Rumsfeld and Saddam 1983

The lessons of history show firstly that the US will—with UN endorsement—impose a military occupation fronted by some corrupt émigrés, former Ba’athist and anyone else who can be bought to enable US corporations to take charge of Iraq’s oil industry. Secondly, the US’s determination to control the world’s most strategic resources will lead to further invasions and occupations. But the disaster of Iraq is not just a disaster FOR Iraq but for the Middle East and the wider cause of stability and peace in the world: The Independent’s fearless correspondent Robert Fisk summed it up in a recent interview with the ABC news network.

“Well, sure, there is a mosque war going on in Iraq with the Americans up to their feet in the sand, there's an Iranian crisis, or so we're told, the Saudis are frightened the Iraq war will spill over into Saudi Arabia, the Egyptians don't know how to reconcile Syria and Lebanon, there are increasing sectarian tensions here in Lebanon. You would think that someone is building what used to be called Potemkin villages, you know, these extraordinary things that Catherine the Great's court favourites use to build, facades of villages, so that everything looked nice in Russia even though things were barbarous behind the facades. I mean, this is a barbarous world we're living in now in the Middle East. It's never been so dangerous here, either for journalists or soldiers but most of all for Arabs. Hence the thousands of people in the mortuary.”


Rev. Anthony Lyndon Blair, Vicar of St. Albion on holiday

A better understanding of history would indicate that Britain and the US are the two powers least likely to succeed in “intervening” in Iraq and the Middle East. It might indicate to Tony Blair that, whatever his other qualities, he is the person “Least likely to succeed” as Middle East Peace envoy. Indeed with the launch of his Faith Foundation he might reflect on the words of someone else who had to conceal his Catholic Faith whilst he held public office, the poet Alexander Pope, whose words from 1711 in his An Essay on Criticism still ring true:

"For fools rush in where angels fear to tread"

Thursday, 3 April 2008

In The Know: New Iraqi Law Requires Waiting Period For Suicide Vest Purchases


In The Know: New Iraqi Law Requires Waiting Period For Suicide Vest Purchases

Tuesday, 1 April 2008

The Fall of Byzantium.


St. Johns Church, Barbados





My own personal journey to Byzantium began in the most unlikely of settings. On the spectacular Atlantic east coast of Barbados, just inland from the ocean, there rises a thousand foot high cliff. There in the well named district of “Overthecliff”, in the parish of St. Johns, I found a disconcerting facsimile of an English country church. St.John's Church is a classic Gothic Revival church spectacularly situated on this cliff overlooking the picturesque Atlantic Coast. This Church was built in 1836 to replace the previous 17th Century church which had been destroyed by a hurricane in 1831.

Wandering through the Church Yard there are fascinating remains including those of a soldier who asked to be buried in an upright position so he could “better enjoy the view”! Also here are the remains of Ferdinando Paleologus, a descendant of the last Emperor of Byzantium, Constantine XI Paleologus, whose family was driven from the throne of Constantinople by the Turks. Ferdinando died in Barbados in 1678, after being a resident here for over 20 years. He was the owner of Clifton Hall House, a magnificent plantation home which boasts a unique historical legacy.


Clifton Hall House

The Great House of Clifton Hall Plantation, Clifton Hall House was first mentioned in historical times in a mortgage recorded in 1656 when it then belonged to Prince Ferdinando Paleologus. Having immigrated to Barbados after fighting for the Royalists during the English Civil war in Cromwell's time, Prince Ferdinando brought the name Clifton Hall with him from his birthplace in Cornwall, England.

Many years later the body of Ferdinando was exhumed and found to be buried in the Byzantine manner with his head towards Constantinople and a metal icon of the resurrection on his chest. So who was the Last Emperor of Byzantium whose descendant ended up in this remote but beautiful corner of the world in the 17th Century and why is the Fall of Byzantium one of the apocalyptic benchmarks in our history?

The Fall of Constantinople on 29th May 1453 marks the end of the Middle Ages and the beginning of a new epoch in Europe. Many Greek scholars moved to Italy, initiating there the development of European Humanism and the Renaissance, while the legal succession of Byzantium and leadership of the Orthodox Church transferred to Tsardom and the “3rd Rome'” in Moscow. By losing access to the Black Sea, Europe was deprived of the land route to India; the search for a new sea route brought about the overseas discoveries of the New World.

The story of Constantinople and what became known as the Byzantine Empire began 1,129 years earlier in 324 AD when Constantine I becomes sole Roman Emperor. A period of civil war concluded with Constantine I as sole emperor of the eastern and western Roman Empire. He commences construction of New Rome (Constantinople) on the site of the old Greek city of Byzantium. Constantine then instigates a series of legislative changes that favour Christians within the Roman Empire.

In 325 AD he convened The Council of Nicaea as he was not prepared to tolerate divisions within the Christian Church, a threat to Roman stability that he regarded as "formidable as any war or battle". An ecumenical ("world –wide") council of church leaders was convened at Nicaea to debate Arianism; a popular religious doctrine, which holds that Jesus Christ ("the Son"), is inferior to God ("the Father"). The Council counters Arianism with the formulation of Christian belief known as the Nicene Creed, a theological formulation which includes the statement that the Son and Father are of the same substance and therefore equal (Co-substantial). To this day this remains the most ecumenical of Creeds used by the Catholic, Orthodox and Protestant Churches. Indeed this creed and the subsequent statements of the Council of Constantinople in 381 AD are the "Orthodoxy" of the Christian Faith and would have been first proclaimed by Constantine, a Roman Emperor, in Latin.


Constantine the Great



"Credo in unum Deum Patrem omnipotentem; factorem coeli et terrae, visibilium omnium et invisibilium.

Et in unum Dominum Jesum Christum, Filium Dei unigenitum, et ex Patre natum ante omnia saecula [Deum de Deo], Lumen de Lumine, Deum verum de Deo vero, genitum, non factum, consubstantialem Patri; per quem omnia facta sunt; qui propter nos homines et propter nostram salutem descendit de coelis, et incarnatus est de Spiritu Sancto ex Maria virgine, et homo factus est; crucifixus etiam pro nobis sub Pontio Pilato, passus et sepultus est; et resurrexit tertia die, secundum Scripturas; et ascendit in coelum, sedet ad dexteram Patris; et iterum venturus est, cum gloria, judicare vivos et mortuos; cujus regni non erit finis.

Et in Spiritum Sanctum, Dominum et vivificantem, qui ex Patre [Filioque] procedit; qui cum Patre et Filio simul adoratur et conglorificatur; qui locutus est per Prophetas. Et unam, sanctam, catholicam et apostolicam ecclesiam. Confiteor unum baptisma in remissionem peccatorum; et expecto resurrectionem mortuorum, et vitam venturi seculi. Amen."



"We believe in one God, the Father Almighty, the maker of heaven and earth, of things visible and invisible.

And in one Lord Jesus Christ, the Son of God, the begotten of God the Father, the Only-begotten, that is of the essence of the Father.

God of God, Light of Light, true God of true God, begotten and not made; of the very same nature of the Father, by Whom all things came into being, in heaven and on earth, visible and invisible.

Who for us humanity and for our salvation came down from heaven, was incarnate, was made human, was born perfectly of the holy virgin Mary by the Holy Spirit.

By whom He took body, soul, and mind, and everything that is in man, truly and not in semblance.

He suffered, was crucified, was buried, rose again on the third day, ascended into heaven with the same body, [and] sat at the right hand of the Father.

He is to come with the same body and with the glory of the Father, to judge the living and the dead; of His kingdom there is no end.

We believe in the Holy Spirit, in the uncreated and the perfect; Who spoke through the Law, prophets, and Gospels; Who came down upon the Jordan, preached through the apostles, and lived in the saints.

We believe also in only One, Universal, Apostolic, and [Holy] Church; in one baptism in repentance, for the remission, and forgiveness of sins; and in the resurrection of the dead, in the everlasting judgement of souls and bodies, and the Kingdom of Heaven and in the everlasting life."


English version (based on the Armenian text)


Greek Icon of the Emperor Constantine and the Fathers of the Church holding the Nicene Creed

Although the Council apparently “solves” the problem of Arianism, the heresy continues to exist and gain many adherents over the next two centuries, including some of Constantine’s successors. The Emperor Constantine I is known to history as “Constantine the Great” and either one of two decisions he made would have earned him this epithet. By moving the capital of the Roman Empire to the city which bore his name, Constantinople, he ensured it would continue for nearly a thousand years after the fall of Rome and by adopting Christianity as the state religion and codifying its beliefs he set the events in train which led to it being the religion which informs the greatest number of adherents to this day. However Constantine was no idealised figure and the complexity of his character is underscored by the ruthlessness and cruelty he also displayed in his life.

Even after his conversion he caused the execution of his brother-in-law Licinius, and of the latter's son, as well as of Crispus his own son by his first marriage, and of his wife Fausta. He quarrelled with his colleague Licinius about their religious policy, and in 323 AD defeated him in a bloody battle; Licinius surrendered on the promise of personal safety; notwithstanding this, half a year later he was strangled by order of Constantine. During the joint reign Licinianus, the son of Licinius, and Crispus, the son of Constantine, had been the two Caesars. Both were gradually set aside; Crispus was executed on the charge of immorality made against him by Constantine's second wife, Fausta. The charge was false, as Constantine learned from his mother, Helena, after the deed was done. In punishment Fausta was suffocated in a superheated bath. The young Licinianus was flogged to death. So there is some irony that the agreed beliefs of Christianity in the Nicene Creed were proclaimed by a fratricidal murderer and a divorcee who did not get baptised (which Christians held to absolve all sins) until he was on his deathbed.

In 330 AD Constantinople is formally dedicated as the Roman Capital and this is often treated as a convenient starting point for referring to the Roman Empire in the East as the "Byzantine Empire" or "Byzantium". In 410 AD Rome is sacked by Alaric the Visigoth. Although Rome, as a capital city, had long ceased to have any real significance in practical terms, its fall to a tribe of barbarians marks the irrevocable decline of the Roman Empire in the West. Western Roman Emperors continue to be appointed for the next sixty years, but they have little real standing.


Theodosian Walls

In 413 AD the construction of Constantinople’s triple walls begins. Although commonly known as the "Theodosian Walls" after Theodosios II, the reigning emperor), the walls were actually built on the orders of Anthemius, the Empire’s Prefect of the East, to counter an immediate threat from the Huns.


Agia Sofia with the minarets added after 1453


Icon of St. Sofia and her three Daughters, Faith, Love and Charity

In conjunction with Constantinople's naturally strong location, the Theodosian walls will prove their worth against any number of attacks upon Constantinople through Byzantine history. They will fall to an attacking army only twice, once during the chaos of the Fourth Crusade (1204) and, finally, to the Ottoman Turks, who breach them in 1453 with the help of artillery and overwhelming numbers.



In 455 AD Rome is sacked for the second time in a very systematic and controlled manner, by the Vandals – another tribe of Germanic barbarians. The Vandals go on to establish a kingdom in the Roman provinces of North Africa, whilst the Goths establish themselves in Italy and Spain. The year 476 AD sees the formal end of the Roman Empire in the West as the last Western Emperor, Romulus Augustulus, is deposed.

The period from about 641 AD to 1025 AD is considered to be the golden age of the Byzantine Empire. Advances in military strength, religious influence, and the arts made the Byzantines one of the most powerful forces in the world of the Middle Ages. The territories of the empire continued to change. Lands were lost to Islam in North Africa, Egypt, Palestine, and Syria as Arab forces besieged the Empire.

Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453, but the Byzantine Empire’s ruin was accomplished two and a half centuries earlier at the hands of fellow Christians in one of the most shameful episodes in history, The Sack of Constantinople by the Fourth Crusade. The City had undergone seventeen sieges, and survived weak Emperors and incompetent generals. The greed of Venice and the venality and gullibility of the Crusaders contributed to the destruction of an Empire that had lasted nine hundred years.


The Sack of Constantinople 1204



“Constantinople had been for centuries the strongest bulwark of defence against Asia. The men of the West had every interest to maintain and strengthen it. Instead of doing so they virtually let loose Asia upon Europe.”

(Pears – Introduction to The Fall of Constantinople 1886)




Agia Sophia with the minarets added by the Ottomans

In 1199, after the failure of the Third Crusade and the loss of the Holy City of Jerusalem, Count Tibald of Champagne conceived the idea of a Crusade to attack Muslim Egypt, and a declaration by Pope Innocent III gave it official sanction. On Tibald’s death in 1201, Boniface of Montferrat took over the leadership. Behind the scenes was a very complex political situation. Byzantine Emperor Isaac Angelos had been deposed and blinded by his brother, who took the throne as Alexios III. Isaac’s son, another Alexios, had escaped Byzantium to Swabia, whose lord, Philip, was son-in-law of the deposed Emperor. Boniface visited Philip, presumably looking for support for his Crusade. However, he would hardly have failed to note young Alexios’ presence, and this may have begun a train of thought which was to lead to catastrophe. It is not for nothing that the word “Byzantine” has entered the English language as a code word for political intrigue.

The Venetians, who were to play a major part in the coming tragedy, were trying to take over Byzantium’s rich trade routes. Their Doge, eighty year old Enrico Dandolo, had become almost blind years before in Constantinople, and is thought to have harboured a secret grudge against the Byzantines. It has also been claimed that Venice was negotiating a secret trade agreement with the Egyptians, against whom the Crusade was aimed. Over optimistic about the likely response to the Crusade, or possibly gulled by the Venetians, the Crusade leaders committed themselves to a fleet three times too large, and a debt of eighty thousand marks. To offset the debt, the Venetians persuaded them to attack the Christian city of Zara, (In what is now Croatia) which had rebelled against Venetian control. The Pope, furious at an attack on a Christian city, excommunicated all involved, but recanted so the Crusaders could go to Egypt. The debt was still enormous, and Boniface proposed that the Crusaders deviate to Byzantium and put young Alexios on his father’s throne. In return Alexios offered two hundred thousand marks and an army of ten thousand to aid against Egypt.

After a voyage marked by bitter dissension, the army reached the Bosporus, and camped across the Straits from Constantinople. The Byzantine fleet which should have destroyed them was in ruin. Michael Stryphnos, admiral of the fleet, and the Emperor’s brother in law, had grown rich by stripping it and selling off its equipment. A scouting troop of five hundred cavalry led by Stryphnos landed across the Straits to observe the Crusaders’ movements, but was chased away by eighty mounted knights. The Crusaders sent an envoy to Byzantium to proclaim young Alexios as Emperor, but the Greeks sent him packing, and when Dandolo had Alexios sail past the City to show himself to the people they jeered and threw insults. On July 5, 1204 the fleet crossed the straits and landed at Galata, a suburb across the Golden Horn harbour from the City proper. Their ships were unable to enter the harbour, which was blocked by a fifteen hundred foot iron chain protected by a fortified tower. A combined night attack by the Byzantines across the harbour and from the tower failed disastrously – ending with the Crusaders capturing the tower. They lowered the chain, and for the first time in history, a hostile fleet entered the Golden Horn.

The crusaders looted the whole city of its treasures. The Patriarch left Constantinople with neither money nor shoes, mounted on an ass. A whore was enthroned in the Patriarchal chair. Relics from the churches were distributed throughout Europe – many of the most precious treasures of Venice came from the sack of Constantinople. Not only Christian relics, but also ancient pagan treasures were lost. A bronze of Hercules was melted down, as well as a statue of Pegasus by Alexander the Great’s court sculptor. The bronze horses now at St Mark's Cathedral in Venice formed part of the loot. The total of plunder came to four hundred thousand silver marks and ten thousand horses, not taking into account the amount “stolen” by the troops.

St Marks Venice


The Pope was horrified when he learned what had happened. The rift between the Greek Orthodox and the Roman Catholic Church was perpetuated. Even 250 years later, when the Turks were besieging Constantinople, one of the City’s last great statesmen remarked “Better the Sultan’s turban than the cardinal’s hat”. The Venetians appointed one of their own as the new Patriarch of Constantinople, without even consulting the Pope.

Although the heart of Empire was torn out by the capture and sack of Constantinople, the Byzantines themselves showed a considerable amount of resilience. Three major "successor states" are set up by Byzantines within the borders of the old Empire. The strongest of the successor states is the so-called Empire of Nicaea. In 1261 the Nicaean Emperor, Michael VIII Paleologus, succeeds in recapturing Constantinople from the Latins.

Michael’s brilliance as soldier and diplomat restores the Empire to some of its former glory, but he remains an ambivalent figure in Byzantine history - he had murdered his way to the top but had committed a still greater crime in the eyes of his subjects. In the interests of securing some form of western alliance, Michael had attempted forced union of the Catholic and Orthodox churches. Church union is unthinkable to most ordinary Byzantines - their attitude towards the west permanently embittered by the Fourth Crusade.

The era from about 1025 to 1453 witnessed the decline of the Byzantine Empire and its ultimate destruction. Loss of territory, internal discord, and defeats by the crusaders were blows from which the empire could not recover. There were new enemies in this era—the Petcheneg and Seljuk Turks to the east and north, and the Normans and Slavs to the west. In 1064 the Byzantines lost Belgrade.

Parallel with the decline of Byzantium the Ottoman Empire (establ. in 1301) advanced rapidly until it spread all the way from the Euphrates to the Danube. Osman, a Turkish Emir with his power base in north-western Asia Minor, enhanced his power at the expense both of his Turkish neighbours and the Byzantines. His emerging state, named after him, is known as the Ottoman Emirate. The Ottomans take Nicaea after an unsuccessful Byzantine relief expedition. Byzantium’s position is exacerbated by a protracted civil war, fought out between aristocratic factions and partisans of the Paleologus family. Superimposed upon civil war is the Black Death, which hits Constantinople in the spring of 1347. Little of Asia Minor is left in Byzantine hands. The Byzantine Empire shrivelled away until it was reduced to a few territories and a small enclave around Constantinople. Unlike the Arabs, who thought the use of firearms dishonourable, the Ottomans became masters of artillery. Following the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Byzantium fought for survival for eight centuries until, by the mid-15th century, the emperor Constantine XI ruled a tiny handful of territories, an empire in name and tradition only. However, he had a powerful defensive weapon in the form of his capital - Constantinople, protected by an impregnable wall system.


Constantine XI depicted at the siege of Constantinople

For the Turks in 1453, Constantinople was a fruit ripe for the picking, the conquest of which had been a dream of Islamic armies for many centuries. Despite leading 80,000 men and a massive siege train against the city, Mehmet “The Conqueror" had to besiege Constantinople for four months before the venerable city finally fell.

Ferdinando’s ancestor Constantine XI Dragases Paleologus was the last Byzantine Emperor, strictly speaking the last Roman Emperor, in an unbroken political tradition stretching back to Augustus, almost 1,500 years earlier. In this respect it should be noted that Byzantine is how we now refer to this empire historically. When it was extant they would refer to themselves as "Romaoi" - Greek for Roman and the Western World referred to them as "Greeks". Constantine had been proclaimed Emperor at Mistra (capital of the Despotate of Morea, now the Peloponnese in mainland Greece) in 1449 and had precious little time to prepare for the Turkish assault. For the defence of Constantinople he has a small army of just over 8,000 men - 3,000 of them foreigners, including, ironically enough, contingents from Genoa and Venice, the two great Italian maritime cities who had done a considerable amount of damage to the Empire over the previous three centuries.


Constantine XI Paleologus - Last emperor of Byzantium

The defenders, outnumbered at least 10 to 1 by Mehmet’s army, put up an extraordinarily brave and effective defence - differences between Latin and Greek were forgotten in the last few desperate days of the Empire. Finally, in the early hours of Tuesday, 29 May 1453, the Turks launch wave after wave of attackers against Constantinople’s land walls. Turkish soldiers force their way in through a small gate and organised Byzantine resistance finally collapses. Constantine dies at the Lion Gate of Constantinople and most of his Byzantine soldiers die fighting along and around the walls. The aftermath of the City's fall is rivalled only by that of the Fourth Crusade as the greatest church in Christendom, St. Sophia, is looted and afterwards converted into a mosque. The stuffed head of Constantine XI Paleologus is taken around the Muslim world as proof of conquest.

Mehmet, who is later to make Constantinople the capital of his own great empire, is a dynamic and ruthless 21-year-old. After touring the City’s ruined Great Palace, he is moved to speak a few lines by a Persian poet:

"The spider weaves the curtains in the palace of the Caesars; the owl calls the watches in the towers of Afrasiab ...."

The Great Palace, Constantinople.

The Sultan had promised his men the three days looting, as was the tradition, but such was the orgy of violence that there were no protests when he brought it to a halt on the same day as it had begun. He waited until the main excesses were over and then rode along the main thoroughfare, the Mese, to St Sophia. Dismounting, he stooped and picked up a handful of earth which, in a gesture of humility, he sprinkled over his turban. He then entered the church and at his command from the pulpit the imam proclaimed the name of Allah, the All-Merciful and Compassionate: there was no God but God, and Mohammed was His Prophet. This was the moment Constantinople became Istanbul; Cross gave way to Crescent and the Byzantine Empire was replaced by the Ottoman. Over the next years the Eastern Mediterranean became a Muslim sea with the sole exception of Rhodes which under the Knights of St John repulsed Mehmet’s Army and Navy in 1480. In 1522 they were to fall to the armies of Mehmet’s grandson Suleiman, known in the west as “The Magnificent” and in Islam as “The Lawgiver.”

Mehmet The Conqueror

The news of the fall of Constantinople, and with it the Byzantine Empire, was received with horror throughout Christendom. The Austro-Hungarian, German and Russian Empires and others adopted the twin headed eagle of the Byzantine Empire which looked both East and West as their emblem and a sign of fealty to the legacy of Byzantium and rulers styled themselves as Caesar (Kaiser and Tsar) to claim continuity from the Western and Eastern Empires. The Ottoman Empire and its throne, known as the Sublime Porte, became heirs not only to Byzantine and Eastern Roman Empire, but also a rich Greco-Latin and Judeo-Christian culture in Anatolia and in the tradition of that Empire different religious communities lived side by side, granted in return for their loyalty – rights and privileges going beyond the Koranic requirements to treat the other “Peoples of the Book” (Christians, Jews and Zoroastrians) with special tolerance.

And in 1678 Ferdinando Paleologus, a descendant of the Last Emperor of Byzantium, who perished at the Lion Gate in 1453, was buried in a Caribbean churchyard with his mortal remains pointed towards Constantinople and the greatness that once was Byzantium. Sic transit Gloria Mundi.