Tuesday, 15 November 2011

From Clare to here

The majestic Cliffs of Moher on the Atlantic's edge


It was with a spring in my step last week that I bounded along Kensington High Street in London to a unique event held in conjunction with World Travel Mart in London, “London to Clare.” Whilst a Dubliner I regard County Clare on the West Coast of Ireland as my adopted county. I have many friends and connections there and as a caver I got under Co. Clare more than most, it has a remarkable cave system where the soft limestone of the Burren hits sandstone sending rivers underground. Set on the Atlantic seaboard it is one the most evocative places in Ireland with the magnificent Cliffs of Moher and the wild Atlantic seascape which is at its most impressive on a stormy winter’s day rather than in the calm of summer. County Clare contains great variety within its boundaries. It contains the Burren, a unique karst region, which contains rare flowers and fauna from both the Mediterranean and the Arctic growing side by side.

Doolin2Aran Ferries "Jack B" under the Cliffs of Moher


The county's Southern border is the River Shannon, the longest river in Ireland. Along this estuary is the town of Shannon and Shannon International Airport which has a proud place in aviation history. This airport was the first airport to have a duty-free zone. On the eastern boundary is the bountiful land and riverscape of Lough Derg, Irelands 3rd largest lake, 22 miles from toes to tip and part of the Shannon / Erne navigation. It has 32,000 acres (13,000 hectares) of spectacular waterway, ideal for all kinds of watersports, cruising and angling surrounded by beautiful countryside around the lake shore, perfect for walking, cycling, horse riding and other visitor pursuits.

Dáithaí C with Keith Wood and Mayor of Clare, Cllr. Pat Hayes


Clare’s sense of place derives not just from the landscape but also from the people because it has also preserved traditions of music and story telling which makes it a magnet for traditional music and folklore enthusiasts. And it does have much evidence of antiquity with a large number of old castles and abbeys, several ancient towers, and numerous raths (earthworks of ancient Irish chieftains) and cromlechs (circles of standing stones).

Poulnabrone Dolmen - Poll na mBrón in Irish
meaning "hole of sorrows"


At the exhibition and function there was an excellent range of exhibitors showcasing what Co. Clare, nicknamed the “Banner County,” has to offer. The “main event” of the evening was the celebrated Irish international and BBC TV top rugby analyst Keith Wood who led a 40 strong team to London as his native County Clare becomes the first county in Ireland to harness the good will of its UK Diaspora in promoting tourism. The group was in London to showcase the best of Clare’s cultural, culinary, artistic, tourism and festival attractions at one of the largest ever gatherings of London Clare people in the UK capital and they kindly included me on an honorary basis in that number.

Aillwee Cave


Former Ireland rugby captain, Keith Wood expressed his pride in being a Clareman, acknowledged the importance of strengthening the ties with fellow Clare people in London and the UK particularly in a time of national and global crisis. He also extended his appreciation for the absolute generosity they have shown in effectively becoming tourism ambassadors for the county. “It’s time to think outside the box,” he said, “and time for us in Clare to lead the way and take responsibility for creating a county that is spirited, creative and productive not just for us but for the generations of the future.” Speaking to Keith it struck me what a capable character he was and he was telling me how after 14 years living in Richmond, Surrey, he had moved back to Clare. Keith is originally from Killaloe and played originally for Garryowen and Munster.

Keith Wood with artist Michael Hanrahan and his
painting of Queen Elizabeth’s inaugural visit to Ireland


The London visit coincides with an attempt to name the spectacular Atlantic edge Cliffs of Moher as one of the 7 Wonders of the Nature. The Cliffs of Moher is competing with 28 other special world-wide locations in an international online competition. The Clare gathering in London stood firm in support of the Cliff’s bid for success as the clock counts down to 11.11 on the 11th November 2011 when the final decision is made and over a billion votes cast from all over the world.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/04/cliffs-of-moher.html

The county’s first citizen, Mayor of Clare, Cllr. Pat Hayes and brother of the internationally renowned traditional fiddle player, Martin Hayes, endorsed the event as one of the most innovative yet practical actions the county has ever taken. He said he came to London specifically to say to the Clare Diaspora and tour operators that the county is open for business and open to new ideas for delivering UK tourists to one of the most spectacular physical and cultural landscapes in the country. “We have a county of outstanding beauty, unrivalled tradition of music and superb quality food. Turn down any narrow road in the countryside and you will find artists and artisan products of the highest world standards,” he said.

Dáithaí C and Birgitta Hedin-Curtin from
Burren Smokehouse


Among the product providers who travelled from Clare was hand-smoked salmon producer, Birgitta Curtin from The Burren Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna who offered the same delicacies at the ‘London to Clare’ evening that were provided to Queen Elizabeth at the state dinner in Dublin Castle earlier this year. I sampled the smoked salmon and it is in a class of its own, organic award winning artisan produce.

www.burrensmokehouse.ie

Artist, Michael Hanrahan whose painting of Queen Elizabeth’s inaugural visit to Ireland is part of her personal art collection that hangs in Buckingham Palace, was also present. Joining the team of county emissaries were representatives from genealogical and attraction providers, accommodation and activity providers, local authorities and tourism agencies The event was chaired by former television presenter, Ciana Campbell representing Ennis Book Club Festival.

Doolin


Gus O'Connor's Pub, Doolin
Many years ago I went across to the easternmost of the fabled Gaelic speaking Aran Islands, Inis Oirr (The Eastern Island) from the pier at Doolin in a small fishing boat. Well today there are several operators all using state of the art craft to do the trips to the three Aran Islands (Inishmore - the largest and westernmost island, Inishmaan - the middle island & Inisheer - the smallest and easternmost island) and the Cliffs of Moher which are even more awe inspiring in scale when viewed from the sea. Joan Reilly from Doolin2Aran Ferries pointed me in the direction of their excellent Blog which is a great trip planning resource;

http://www.doolin2aranferries.com/blog/

Joe Russell, Chairman of Clare Tourism Forum, which inspired the event, stressed the significance of the county’s assets and its ease of access from London. ‘Shannon International Airport and indeed the Cliffs of Moher are just a hop away,’ he said. With 3 flights each day from Heathrow and further flights from Stansted, Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool and Edinburgh, Clare is no more than an hour away and costs a little as €36 if you plan in advance. Shannon Airport on our doorstep is an invaluable strength that we simply cannot ignore and must maximise,’ he added.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/05/shannon-airport-ireland.html

The ‘London to Clare’ Evening marks the commencement of a highly active period of engagement with the Diaspora and is expected to generate €1 million and 2,000 tourists to coincide with The Gathering homecoming initiative in 2013 and backed by the Government. ‘If 200 people attending the UK event could send 10 people to Clare who would spend €500 each, it is not at all an impossible task to deliver this target, added Joe Russell.

Magical Lough Derg


"The ‘London to Clare" Evening was an excellent promotional initiative for Clare to raise the profile of the County in London and build closer links with its London Diaspora. I would like to commend all of the work and the collaborative approach that has gone into making this event happens,’ said John Concannon, Director of Marketing Development, Fáilte Ireland.


I was delighted to bump into Jackie Whelan who has led the resurrection of the West Clare Railway. I hardly recognised Jackie looking smart in a suit but was delighted to hear of his plans for next summer on the extended railway. Great tribute and credit has to be paid to the team who kept the dream of the WCR alive and in particular to the remarkable Jackie who has messianically driven the project forward, his son Stephen and Locoman First Class Richard L. Gair. Jackie said I was very welcome to visit again if I brought a shovel. I’m sure he was joking, I’m management – I don’t do shovels!

Dáithaí C with Jackie Whelan and Richard L. Gair 
on the West Clare Railway


http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2009/09/on-west-clare-railway.html

The evening went very well with a large attendance and we adjourned to enjoy the irresistible combination of traditional Irish Music and Fullers London Pride in my favourite London Pub, The Churchill Arms. Few publicans in London can compare with Gerry O’Brien, colourful landlord of The Churchill Arms, who has been 26 years at the award-winning Kensington Church Street pub. I’ve a soft spot for Gerry as he hails from the County Clare and if I described him as a Mad Irishman he would take it as a compliment for he is a true eccentric and has made the Churchill Arms into something rare in London a brewery owned tenanted boozer with real character where people literally come from miles around to visit.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2010/07/churchill-arms.html

Ireland has taken some hard knocks recently and there is no shortage of hindsight among the knockers. But County Clare is the hardiest and most go ahead of counties as well as one of the most remarkable landscapes on the face of the planet. It elected both Daniel O’Connell (The Liberator) and Éamon de Valera and is a place blessed with an independent spirit. Shannon was Ireland’s first new town and a place with both a pioneering spirit and a diverse community from all over the globe. The county still attracts many who come for its beauty and stay for the lifestyle. It is a "wired up" county with Ennis being Ireland's firs "Digital Town" and SFADCO attracting web entrpreneurs with its E-Town developments.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/04/e-towns-ireland.html

They are an entrepreneurial bunch setting up businesses in crafts and artisan foods which gives Clare a cosmopolitan feel contrasted with its landscapes both primeval and mellow.

Bunratty Castle and Durty Nellys "The Village Pub"


But one incident reminded me of the difference in spirit. I was speaking to the well known broadcaster and writer Fergal Keane (married to Anne, a lovely daughter of the Banner County) and said I thought in an article he had referred to somebody who was a good neighbourhood friend and schoolmate who I last saw 30 years ago. In a flash Fergal had his phone out, rang a number in Ardmore Co. Waterford and handed the phone to me. It was my old buddy and Fergal’s best friend and in a flash thirty years disappeared. That is the spontaneity, warmth and sincerity you find in that unique place on the edge of the Atlantic called Co. Clare. Looking around you realised that the saying that in Ireland “A stranger is a friend you haven’t yet met” would be a cliché only for the small fact it is often true. Go to Clare and see for yourself.

Thanks to Fergal, Paul Ryan from SFADCO, Maureen Cleary from Clare Tourism Forum and many more for a warm and life affirming evening.

County Clare "The Banner County"


Check out www.clareoffers.com for great value offers on accommodation, discounted admission to attractions & activities, discounts off shopping and much more in County Clare.

Check out County Clare’s Tourism Website 


www.clare.ie

Fly Shannon Airport www.shannonairport.com



4 comments:

  1. Great piece.

    It's a wonder Jack recognised yourself in the suit.

    Used to go to Kilkee for holidays when I was small. Returned to Clare with the family in recent years to Ballyvaughan.


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  2. Very Well Written Daithai, an outsider's view of this beautiful county is high praise indeed.

    Come over and take a cruise with us next time you're in the Banner County.

    http://www.doolin2aranferries.com/cliffs-of-moher.html

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  3. P.S. That's a lovely photo of our boat, Jack B under the Cliffs of Moher ;)

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  4. Nice post. It makes me want to board the first flight to Ireland!

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